97 1FZ-FE Tune up (1 Viewer)

[timbolee73]

Hi all,
I have a 1997 Landcruiser with approximately 151,000 miles on it. I bought it with about 130,000 on it and other than a few items (master cylinder, new o2 sensor above the catalytic converter, frequent oil changes) it's been great. I don't have any maintenance true maintenance records on it.

My issue is that at idle it's running a bit rough, but not horrible. The exhaust smell is noticeable as well. I just don't think it's running optimally and figure I should do some base-lining of the electrical components - plugs, wires, distributor, air filter etc.

I've read a number of threads on the forum and before I got carried away with replacing EVERYTHING, I wanted to post to see what recommendations might be out there. I've read things like, replace the catalytic converter, replace the o2 sensors, adjust the valves, check the injectors...

I'm thinking all fluids should be flushed now too.

Appreciate any guidance the community has to offer. Thanks!

 

[Malleus]

Tim, if it was me, and I had no records, I'd replace all the wear items, in least expensive order first. That way you start to build a baseline against which the "permanent" components' operation can be measured. Remember, the "wear" components are primarily there to protect the more expensive "permanent" ones.

Your FSM has a maintenance section in it. I'd look there first. I can't vouch for all their products, but I've yet to be unimpressed with the effort Toyota put into the service recommendations for the 80 series.

HTH

 

[inkpot]

Are you getting any Check Engine codes? Does your CEL light up briefly when you first turn on the key?

 

[timbolee73]

Are you getting any Check Engine codes? Does your CEL light up briefly when you first turn on the key?

There's no check engine light on. When I turn the key all of the lights on the panel briefly go on, but go off once the engine starts which seems normal.

 

[benjrblant]

There's no check engine light on. When I turn the key all of the lights on the panel briefly go on, but go off once the engine starts which seems normal.

I think what inkpot is asking is if you can see the check engine light come on when the ignition is on but the engine is not running. This is an indication that your CEL bulb is not burned out. 20-something years down the line, it is possible that the bulb could be out, ECU throwing a code, and you'd not know because the indicator isn't functioning.

 

[tominboise]

So given no other CEL code, I would replace the plugs, wires, cap and rotor all with OEM parts. I would replace the fuel filter and run some strong injector cleaner through it. I would inspect and replace the air filter if required. I would check the timing and bump it up a little bit if required. Then I would drive it some and see what happens.

 

[timbolee73]

So given no other CEL code, I would replace the plugs, wires, cap and rotor all with OEM parts. I would replace the fuel filter and run some strong injector cleaner through it. I would inspect and replace the air filter if required. I would check the timing and bump it up a little bit if required. Then I would drive it some and see what happens.

Tom,
Thanks for the suggestions.

Plugs
This morning replaced just the plugs. See attached photos. They look completely shot. It looks like the little diode between the prongs is completely gone when I compared them to a pic of a new one. Also looks like oil around most of them. Cylinder 6 was clean.
Is that a bad sign? I drove it and overall, not a huge impact on the idle (around 650 rpm), but then again the car was running fine. Still feel a little skip or miss in the engine at idle though which bugs me. I figured I'd wait on the wires and the distributor.

Fuel Filter
I ordered a new fuel filter. The location of that sucker is brutal. I've seen some youtube vids on replacing that, but the guy said that he inherited his rig without the one bolt under the intake manifold which made it easier. Is this as bad a job as I expect it to be?

Charcoal Filter?
Speaking of youtube, there's a guy from texas out there with some great videos. He replaces the charcoal filter behind the battery to eliminate the air sucking/release when taking off the gas cap. Mine makes a lot of noise and I'm wondering if I should replace that?

I also bought some EFI cleaner and put it in the tank. We'll see if that has any impact. Next up flushing the engine coolant, heater core, the differential oil and greasing the propeller shaft. I've never done any of that.

Thanks.
Tim

 

[slow95z]

The oil is probably from bad seals in the valve cover. You need to take it off to replace them.

 

[Malleus]

@Tim Murnane, I don't know what these plugs looked like new, but they don't look much different from mine (did this same thing yesterday):

Here's what NGK has to say on the subject (everyone seems to quote them):
What your spark plugs are telling you...

My analysis is that you have the same moderately leaky valve seals I do. The condition isn't dire for me; no exhaust smoke (that I can see from the driver's seat) and the fuel economy has been stable since I bought it 10 years ago.

I'd also recommend replacing the filters. I wouldn't expect much from the in tank injector cleaners. It might, and I repeat might, keep them cleaner longer, but I think it's more useful as a cleaning agent in a jar on my bench (and then only judiciously used )

Flushing you'll love; be prepared, the radiator petcock discharges into the left front corner of the engine. This is my major pet peeve with this truck. In my opinion, a proper petcock should discharge 90° (down) after being opened, and have a nipple for a extension tube into the used fluid container. You can do this, but it won't work 100%; just be prepared for a mess. See the FSM for the fluid exchange procedures; it's pretty good. Cleaning the underside of the truck at (someone else's) carwash, prior to the work will pay benefits

 

[timbolee73]

The oil is probably from bad seals in the valve cover. You need to take it off to replace them.

I was afraid you'd say that. The truck does burn oil. I also have that leak in the oil pump seal. Thanks.

 

[timbolee73]

@Tim Murnane, I don't know what these plugs looked like new, but they don't look much different from mine (did this same thing yesterday):

Here's what NGK has to say on the subject (everyone seems to quote them):
What your spark plugs are telling you...

My analysis is that you have the same moderately leaky valve seals I do. The condition isn't dire for me; no exhaust smoke (that I can see from the driver's seat) and the fuel economy has been stable since I bought it 10 years ago.

I'd also recommend replacing the filters. I wouldn't expect much from the in tank injector cleaners. It might, and I repeat might, keep them cleaner longer, but I think it's more useful as a cleaning agent in a jar on my bench (and then only judiciously used )

Flushing you'll love; be prepared, the radiator petcock discharges into the left front corner of the engine. This is my major pet peeve with this truck. In my opinion, a proper petcock should discharge 90° (down) after being opened, and have a nipple for a extension tube into the used fluid container. You can do this, but it won't work 100%; just be prepared for a mess. See the FSM for the fluid exchange procedures; it's pretty good. Cleaning the underside of the truck at (someone else's) carwash, prior to the work will pay benefits

View attachment 1400797

The truck does burn oil and it also leaks it from the oil pump seal. I'll keep an eye on it. On my favorite show, wheeler dealers they often replace the injectors on their cars. Not cheap. $178 each. Thanks for the reply.

 

[kruisinkid]

change the rear o2 sensor. i believe it is the more important of the two as far as engine management goes. get the denso off amazon to save some money. both mine have been working perfect for 2 years now. also, just use the delco charcoal canister. super cheap and easy. also, liberal applications of techron.

at 150k, everything has already, or is just about to sh!t the bed as far as wear items. i could easily rattle off about $1500 in parts that im 99% certain needs replacing.

no need to replace the injectors yet, i dont think you can get OEM new anymore. not a bad idea to start buying cheap used ones on ebay and then send them to get cleaned, and youll have them when you need them.

i implore anyone who can afford it to get the landtank MAF and push that PWR button. set it and forget it!

 

[tominboise]

Tom,
Thanks for the suggestions.

Plugs

Is that a bad sign? Don't confuse leaking spark plug tube seals in the valve cover with leaking valve seals in the head itself. The former is what caused the oily plugs you replaced. The latter causes oil consumption and requires the head to come off.

Fuel Filter
Is this as bad a job as I expect it to be? It's a PITA but not insurmountable. Planning on working from under the truck with long extensions for the hard to reach bolt. Cut the hole to a slot on the replacement filter mount and it will go on/off easier next time.

Charcoal Filter?
Mine makes a lot of noise and I'm wondering if I should replace that? Autozone, Rock Auto and others sell a replacement canister (VC-120) that is for certain GM products that works. There are numerous threads on it. I'd replace it.

I also bought some EFI cleaner and put it in the tank. We'll see if that has any impact. Next up flushing the engine coolant, heater core, the differential oil and greasing the propeller shaft. I've never done any of that.

You should also grease the front knuckles (remove the pipe plug on the top of the knuckle and pump grease in- 6 or 8 shots). When flushing the coolant, drain the block as well (Requires a 14mm socket and some long extensions - go in through the drivers wheel well. If you are good, leave the cap on, remove the pipe plug, hold a hose against the block draining into a bucket. Have a helper remove the rad cap. You won't spill much coolant this way.

Thanks.
Tim

View attachment 1400721

View attachment 1400722

Plugs

Is that a bad sign? Don't confuse leaking spark plug tube seals in the valve cover with leaking valve seals in the head itself. The former is what caused the oily plugs you replaced. The latter causes oil consumption and requires the head to come off.

Fuel Filter
Is this as bad a job as I expect it to be? It's a PITA but not insurmountable. Planning on working from under the truck with long extensions for the hard to reach bolt. Cut the hole to a slot on the replacement filter mount and it will go on/off easier next time.

Charcoal Filter?
Mine makes a lot of noise and I'm wondering if I should replace that? Autozone, Rock Auto and others sell a replacement canister (VC-120) that is for certain GM products that works. There are numerous threads on it. I'd replace it.

I also bought some EFI cleaner and put it in the tank. We'll see if that has any impact. Next up flushing the engine coolant, heater core, the differential oil and greasing the propeller shaft. I've never done any of that.

You should also grease the front knuckles (remove the pipe plug on the top of the knuckle and pump grease in- 6 or 8 shots). When flushing the coolant, drain the block as well (Requires a 14mm socket and some long extensions - go in through the drivers wheel well. If you are good, leave the cap on, remove the pipe plug, hold a hose against the block draining into a bucket. Have a helper remove the rad cap. You won't spill much coolant this way.

 

[timbolee73]

Plugs

Is that a bad sign? Don't confuse leaking spark plug tube seals in the valve cover with leaking valve seals in the head itself. The former is what caused the oily plugs you replaced. The latter causes oil consumption and requires the head to come off.

Fuel Filter
Is this as bad a job as I expect it to be? It's a PITA but not insurmountable. Planning on working from under the truck with long extensions for the hard to reach bolt. Cut the hole to a slot on the replacement filter mount and it will go on/off easier next time.

Charcoal Filter?
Mine makes a lot of noise and I'm wondering if I should replace that? Autozone, Rock Auto and others sell a replacement canister (VC-120) that is for certain GM products that works. There are numerous threads on it. I'd replace it.

I also bought some EFI cleaner and put it in the tank. We'll see if that has any impact. Next up flushing the engine coolant, heater core, the differential oil and greasing the propeller shaft. I've never done any of that.

You should also grease the front knuckles (remove the pipe plug on the top of the knuckle and pump grease in- 6 or 8 shots). When flushing the coolant, drain the block as well (Requires a 14mm socket and some long extensions - go in through the drivers wheel well. If you are good, leave the cap on, remove the pipe plug, hold a hose against the block draining into a bucket. Have a helper remove the rad cap. You won't spill much coolant this way.

Appreciate it Tom!

 

[timbolee73]

change the rear o2 sensor. i believe it is the more important of the two as far as engine management goes. get the denso off amazon to save some money. both mine have been working perfect for 2 years now. also, just use the delco charcoal canister. super cheap and easy. also, liberal applications of techron.

at 150k, everything has already, or is just about to sh!t the bed as far as wear items. i could easily rattle off about $1500 in parts that im 99% certain needs replacing.

no need to replace the injectors yet, i dont think you can get OEM new anymore. not a bad idea to start buying cheap used ones on ebay and then send them to get cleaned, and youll have them when you need them.

i implore anyone who can afford it to get the landtank MAF and push that PWR button. set it and forget it!

I do use the PWR button. I see the LANDTANK on the forum, but what does it do? Couldn't seem to find a description, just seems everyone wants one!

 

[kruisinkid]

MAF - mass air flow
imagine that your engine has a deviated septum. landtank's MAF housing fixes that. you have to do use a camry sensor with it.

 

[timbolee73]

Gents,
Stressing a bit here. Managed to replace the fuel filter with really no issues until I came to the high pressure hose and bolt. Initially it was spraying all over the place upon start up. Subsequent tightening lessened the drip considerably, BUT there's still what seems to be a pin hole leak that will gather on the bottom of the input hose (banjo?). I don't want to over tighten this thing because it wasn't too tight when I took it off.

I can't leave it like this of course. I notice in a schematic that I have, they show a washer both on the inside and outside of the banjo input fitting. There was NOT a washer on the inside when I took the old one off. After three tries at this, I'm considering putting in the other washer and tightening it up and praying. Any thoughts? Thanks guys.

 

[inkpot]

Are there copper washer/gaskets on the hose fittings?

 

[Funner]

Gents,
Stressing a bit here. Managed to replace the fuel filter with really no issues until I came to the high pressure hose and bolt. Initially it was spraying all over the place upon start up. Subsequent tightening lessened the drip considerably, BUT there's still what seems to be a pin hole leak that will gather on the bottom of the input hose (banjo?). I don't want to over tighten this thing because it wasn't too tight when I took it off.

I can't leave it like this of course. I notice in a schematic that I have, they show a washer both on the inside and outside of the banjo input fitting. There was NOT a washer on the inside when I took the old one off. After three tries at this, I'm considering putting in the other washer and tightening it up and praying. Any thoughts? Thanks guys.

Yes, get another washer, one on each side of the banjo sounds correct. I haven't taken that part off yet, but the washers are probably a soft metal and are really seals. Probably not going to get a good seal with a steal washer.

 

[timbolee73]

That did it! Make sure you use the washers... Duh!

After all I read about this, it wasn't such a bad job. I used a swivel for the underside, inside bolt for the filter and the other one was easy. Got both from underneath the car.

Thanks!