94 TO 97 Upgrade

Joined
Mar 13, 2003
Messages
5,787
Location
North Front Range, CO
I am going to replace the old 94.
Was thinking of a 100 or another 80.
Found a couple 97's with just over 100.000 mi. One with lockers and one not known yet (dealer).
As the 94 is the BEST :flipoff2: year for 80's, would I be happy with a 97 or should I hold out for a 94?

I know what to look for on a hi mi 80 but what should one look for on a low mi 80?
Low mi means it was either driven many short trips or it sat alot.

My thinking is its nice to get one with low mi but is low mi on a older vehicle harder on it than hi mi?
 
Joined
May 31, 2005
Messages
7,034
Weird post. From a driveability standpoint, what are you thinking would be different between a 97 and your 94?
 
Joined
Jun 25, 2003
Messages
4,012
Location
Rixeyville, VA
Kurt,

Im at 287,000 now and its certainly something i think about alot too. However, i think i'll just rebuild the engine and tranny when the time comes. I dont know if i want the hassle of swapping goodies from one 80 to the other and having to try and sell a high mileage 80.

Things could change though.

FWIW, my sister drives a stock 96 and to me, there is a world of difference in that and my high mileage 94. i do realize being stock makes it smoother and quieter but it's tempting sometimes.
 
Joined
Mar 27, 2003
Messages
5,698
Location
Camas, WA USA
I think you will only like the 97 more, not that there is anything wrong with the 94. i had a 93, I like the updated dash of my 96 as well as smoother shifts, other than that not a whole lot different. Though I haven't used a scanner or had any codes, i like the idea that OBDII will give me more info than OBD1. One thing you might notice, is the 97 might be a little "tighter" only due to the miles on your 94.
 
Joined
Mar 13, 2003
Messages
5,787
Location
North Front Range, CO
Rust is the main reason for not wanting to invest more $$$$ in to the 80.
The seat leater is wore out too.
Under carrage rust can be costly. I alredy had to get rid of the rear heat due to rust.
My tail gate is bent, I can see under the 80 from inside the cab.
I am getting code 25 off and on, the curse controll is cutting out and in.
The motor is not as strong as it was.

Its gettin old and tired, just like some of the members on this forum;)
 
Joined
Aug 26, 2005
Messages
1,219
Location
Prescott Valley, AZ
I would go newer just because of the OBD II. It is easier at emission time. The "plug and play" emission test is great. In Az they don't even test the tailpipe, they just plug in the OBD II and check it out. It is simple. If the check engine light is not on, it will pass.
As to mileage, I don't worry too much. It has been 8 years since I bought a vehicle that was driveable, and that was a Toyota truck. As an old mechanic, I assume that every car will eventually break down, so why not buy it that way and save the money? The truck that I bought in running condition ended up needing a head gasket and all hoses within a year. My Celica needed a $15 bushing and the tranny installed. I paid $100 for the car. My wife's 4x4 Toyo van needed the head done and all hoses. It has more hoses than a fire truck! I paid $250 for it. The LC was rolled with crushed bodywork when I bought it. I have repainted all of our current cars and done the bodywork. I have never made a car payment, and I don't plan to ever do that. Car payments suck!
I may live modestly, but everything that I have is paid in CASH! I own my cars, my 80 LC, my house, my land, my power tools and my business. I owe nothing.
I like it like that!
 

e9999

Gotta get outta here...
Moderator
Joined
Sep 20, 2003
Messages
17,825
Location
US
yup,
OBDII
Airbags
R134
lockers if you don't have them already
everything tight

now, of course, if you don't need to do super hardcore wheeling, a 100.... ooolala!


oh, and no, we're not getting old, just more experienced with life... :)
 
Joined
Jan 25, 2005
Messages
1,099
Location
Philippines
:D :D
I would go newer just because of the OBD II. It is easier at emission time. The "plug and play" emission test is great. In Az they don't even test the tailpipe, they just plug in the OBD II and check it out. It is simple. If the check engine light is not on, it will pass.
As to mileage, I don't worry too much. It has been 8 years since I bought a vehicle that was driveable, and that was a Toyota truck. As an old mechanic, I assume that every car will eventually break down, so why not buy it that way and save the money? The truck that I bought in running condition ended up needing a head gasket and all hoses within a year. My Celica needed a $15 bushing and the tranny installed. I paid $100 for the car. My wife's 4x4 Toyo van needed the head done and all hoses. It has more hoses than a fire truck! I paid $250 for it. The LC was rolled with crushed bodywork when I bought it. I have repainted all of our current cars and done the bodywork. I have never made a car payment, and I don't plan to ever do that. Car payments suck!
I may live modestly, but everything that I have is paid in CASH! I own my cars, my 80 LC, my house, my land, my power tools and my business. I owe nothing.
I like it like that!


That's the life I like. I don't even own a credit card. :D


Kalawang
 
Joined
Feb 26, 2004
Messages
1,282
Location
Oregon
Website
www.brian894X4.com
The exhaust and cat routing on my '95 just plain sucks. Pisses me off everytime I look at it. Looks like something that an American Engineer that worked on the Tacoma would come up with. You have all this great ground clearnace and well designed under carraige and then these two huge cats and rear exaust pipe that hang down like a tail hook on a Navy airplane.

Otherwise, I don't regret getting a later model 80 one single bit. I like the newer dash layout much better. And despite the ongoing tranny debate, there's no doubt the newer tranny is at least durable enough to last the life of the rig.

Other than that, there's not too many other differences.
 

landtank

Supporting Vendor
SILVER Star
Joined
Mar 27, 2003
Messages
20,211
Location
Groveland MA
Website
landtankproducts.com
typically the OBDII trucks get better gas mileage by a couple anyway. Wasn't there a thread from you wanting that specific thing for your 80?

I'd only get a 96 or 97 if I where to buy again.
 

Skillet

Skillet
Joined
Nov 10, 2005
Messages
4,043
Location
КАГІҒОЯИІА
meh...

keep the 94 and buy an 100.


that's what I'd do...


Agreed.


My '93 has 207K on it and it is still the most solid awesome vehicle I have owned. Not to mention, I got it for a great deal and that left me enough money to modify.

Whether it makes a huge difference or not, I actually like the idea of the big "bus" transmission in the 93 / 94 vehicles, makes a little more noise and shifts a little funky but keeps on tickin'.

My vehicle never really throws codes so I have not really had to deal with the whole OBD thing. I fried an injector once and it threw a code then.

I figure, for what I paid for it, I can just keep playing with it and eventually rebuild.

Whatever you decide, good luck.

Jeb
 
Joined
Apr 22, 2004
Messages
3,250
Location
Washington, D.C.
I've had both. The '94 definitely felt more "truck-like" with the transmission shifts, but the '97 is a lot smoother. I also think the 97's headliner looks s***ty compared to the '94's. However, it's all about the same, but I do get almost 100 more miles per tank with the '97. Why, I don't know.
 
Joined
Feb 8, 2007
Messages
1,198
Location
Nashville TN...But I miss Richlands NC
Rust is the main reason for not wanting to invest more $$$$ in to the 80.
The seat leater is wore out too.
Under carrage rust can be costly. I alredy had to get rid of the rear heat due to rust.
My tail gate is bent, I can see under the 80 from inside the cab.
I am getting code 25 off and on, the curse controll is cutting out and in.
The motor is not as strong as it was.

Its gettin old and tired, just like some of the members on this forum;)


Am I the only person that would spray oil (diesel fuel) on the U.C to help extend it's life and make suvicing it easer?

P.S cold water pressure washing it after the winter salt is worse NMO, because it does nothing to disolve the salt just scratches it as it gets washed down the paint.


Agreed.


My '93 has 207K on it and it is still the most solid awesome vehicle I have owned. Not to mention, I got it for a great deal and that left me enough money to modify.

Whether it makes a huge difference or not, I actually like the idea of the big "bus" transmission in the 93 / 94 vehicles, makes a little more noise and shifts a little funky but keeps on tickin'.

My vehicle never really throws codes so I have not really had to deal with the whole OBD thing. I fried an injector once and it threw a code then.

I figure, for what I paid for it, I can just keep playing with it and eventually rebuild.

Whatever you decide, good luck.

Jeb

Realy, you mean I dont have that one in my 92? Darn and I was thinking I needed a "stand alone" trans for my diesel swap, darn!!



I've had both. The '94 definitely felt more "truck-like" with the transmission shifts, but the '97 is a lot smoother. I also think the 97's headliner looks ****ty compared to the '94's. However, it's all about the same, but I do get almost 100 more miles per tank with the '97. Why, I don't know.


Aint that a B#$CH! I hate when the windows are down and all that wind noise, the "fragrance of nature" and cattle get in, eack!

I also hate A.C it couses more fuel consumtion and a loss of power....

and I hate the "Truck" ride if I wanted a truck I'd buy a peaterbuilt! gawd...

IFS......

IRS....and the IRS.....

and tires, dont get me started......

birds.....


free trade......

stars......come on what are they all about?....... lool at me, look at me!!

twinkle, twinkle you little fart.
 
Last edited:

Users who are viewing this thread

Top Bottom