'94 Pickup TLC list

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Joined
Nov 18, 2010
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Location
Oakland, CA
Greetings from the Landcruiser side of the forum.

Many years ago, I sold my brother-in-law my 1994 Toyota pickup for not much money. Standard cab, 22RE, 4WD, 5-speed (W56?), no PS, no A/C. Still stock save for the saddle blanket seat covers. He has not been big on maintenance other than oil changes but to his credit he is still rolling the original clutch at 150K miles. It's not his DD, luckily for the truck. Still running like a champ - no drips, no smoke, never let anybody down.

For his Christmas gift I am going to do a long overdue but still basic tune-up on the thing. I have forgotten most of what I knew about the truck (except that it never ever needed anything outside of regular maintenance), but thanks to this forum I have compiled a bit of info about what I'm looking at.

Truck is about 80 miles away, so I am compiling this parts list based on very blurry memories as well as still having the VIN.

1. Can I run this list by the experts here and invite you to chime in on anything I'm missing or should revisit? Anyone wants to throw out socket sizes for the drain + fills feel free. All I remember is that the diffs were 24 mm.

Unless otherwise noted, I am going OEM on everything.

Valve adjustment: hot as possible
Oil Fliter: 90915-YZZD3 (a little bigger, from the 80 series LC)
Air filter: 17801-35020-83
Plugs: NGK V-Power 1233/BPR5EY, .032 gap
Plug wires: NGK 4417
Cap + Rotor: 19101-35010 cap, 19102-73021 rotor
V-Belt: 99332-10865-83
*Transmission drain + fill: 75-90W
*T-case drain + fill: 75-90W
*Diffs drain + fill: 90W
Grease drive shafts: whatever is in the gun, but not moly

* are there allen-head drain/fill plugs available for the oil pan/trans, t-case/diffs? I use them (10mm, with magnets) on my FJ60 and have been happy with them...

Throttle body clean? I have come to enjoy cleaning the throttle body on my UZJ and my old Tundra, but I don't remember ever touching it on the 22RE.

PCV and Fuel Filter: these two sound like PITAs unless there's a problem. Necessary if there's no sign of trouble?

Not touching the brakes as there was a recent MC replacement.


Many thanks for any little bit of input anyone wants to share. I know this is all basic tune-up stuff but since I've gotten so much good info on Mud for my LCs, I figured why not throw this out there?


DF
 
PCV is pretty easy to replace. Fuel filter is a PITA, but might be worth it, if it hasn't been done in a while. It takes me about an hour.

Check, reset, timing. This might require checking/resetting the TPS, if timing doesn't kick down.

Probably time for a new cap and rotor. In Canada, OEM was actually cheaper than some of the aftermarket suppliers.

I sent my injectors to California for cleaning and calibrating. Gained between 10 and 15% fuel efficiency.
Depends how much it gets driven I guess. Fair amount of work to pull them and re-install.
 
I got brand new drain plugs from one guy on eBay. They are the Allen drive style and he claims they are original Toyota equipment. They haven't let me down yet.

Maybe somebody here has the part number for them.

Good luck!!
 
Differential Drain Plugs, Magnetic, 10mm allen: 90341-18021 ($2.56)
Gasket: 90430-18008 ($1.55)
PCV Valve is easy to replace. 12204-35040, $5.62. Plan on replacing the grommet too.
Fuel Filter: 23300-39035, $27.35
Oil Filter: the 90915-YZZD3 fits fine, $5.41.

Just get them from the dealer. You can spend list price or more at your local dealer, or do business with a discount dealer. In the west you can call American Toyota, 800-432-6668 (Albuquerque, NM). Dan is the man, but Tom usually answers the phone. In the east call Lowe Toyota and ask for Onur (oazeri@lowetoyota.com), 478.971.3193 (tell him Pappy says hi). They are in Georgia. Ask for the MUD discount, it's usually worth about 25%.

Fuel filter is a challenge, but, if you rebuild the injectors the filter becomes a piece of cake. Just plan on replacing the plenum gasket. If you pull the throttle body, replace that gasket too.

You only list one belt which is for the AC. There should be three: power steering, AC, and water pump/alternator.

Alternator belt: 99331-10870-83, $14.79.
PS belt: 99332-11120-78, $26.82.

I would recommend pulling off the rocker arm cover and giving the truck a valve adjustment. Hopefully the top of the engine isn't sludged up too bad. Replace the two half-moon seals (part #?) and the rocker arm cover gasket, 11213-35010, $18.89.

Other things:
Radiator hoses.
The dizzy cap gasket.
The dizzy o-ring. They usually leak.
Diffs: Use 75-W90.
 
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Many thanks for the replies.

I have bought a fair amount of stuff for the FJ60 from Cruiser Dan so I will definitely keep him in mind once I get the list together. I've never had him answer his phone though, you're right about that.

Not having the truck to look at leaves me a little dumb so a couple more questions:

Is this 5-speed the W56?

Truck does not have factory PS or AC - does that leave me with just the water pump/alt belt? Is that possible?

I was under the impression that the valve cover had to come off to replace the PCV on the 22re but it sounds like not. I will def replace that, and the grommet.
 
Many thanks for the replies.

I have bought a fair amount of stuff for the FJ60 from Cruiser Dan so I will definitely keep him in mind once I get the list together. I've never had him answer his phone though, you're right about that.

Not having the truck to look at leaves me a little dumb so a couple more questions:

Is this 5-speed the W56?

Truck does not have factory PS or AC - does that leave me with just the water pump/alt belt? Is that possible?

I was under the impression that the valve cover had to come off to replace the PCV on the 22re but it sounds like not. I will def replace that, and the grommet.

Yes,W56.

You should at least have PS.

PVC grommet will be easier to replace with cover off, but not necessary.
 
Nice job Pappy

Seems odd that a truck of that vintage wouldn't have PS, but I guess its possible.

Ya the grommet will be very stiff from age, tough to pull the PCV valve out. You will likely tear the grommet apart.

Fuel filter is much easier if you take off the right front tire and the little access cover above the shock. Loosen the banjo fittings before you unbolt it from the block.
 
I agree, it sounds crazy that a truck this bare bones was available as late as 1994. But it had manual steering and no AC. I remember kinda liking the no PS around town and in snow but not on trails.
 
Make sure you use GL-4 Gear oil in the transmission only. Redline MT-90 (GL-4) is about the best and does really well in Toyota transmissions. For the T-case, front and rear diffs...a GL-5 is needed. Redline's 75w-90 is also really good for this and it is a GL-5 hypoid gear oil. The best places to get these is Amazon and usually ships super fast.
 
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