@Redefined Depending on what you are going to do? EGR too?
for ripping PAIR out you will need two keychains model 05 plus gaskets and a plastic plug to plug the exit pipe from the air filter
94 PAIR removal update
- Thread starter rc51kid
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@Redefined Depending on what you are going to do? EGR too?
for ripping PAIR out you will need two keychains model 05 plus gaskets and a plastic plug to plug the exit pipe from the air filter
@Redefined I agree there is some place for confessions on @NLXTACY Wits end web site for obvious reasons
For 1994 EGR blocking you will need one item Keychain- Model 04 its not the perfect fit, but it will do maybe I should have ordered Keychain- Model 02
For removing it completely like I did, you will need Keychain- Model 04 and Keychain- Model 01
I got new OEM gaskets for all block plates
For 1994 EGR blocking you will need one item Keychain- Model 04 its not the perfect fit, but it will do maybe I should have ordered Keychain- Model 02
For removing it completely like I did, you will need Keychain- Model 04 and Keychain- Model 01
I got new OEM gaskets for all block plates
- Thread starter
- #63
I wish I could remember exactly what I did when I originally posted this. But it was 100,000 miles ago. That is the benefit of getting parts from people like Sam and Beno. They just sent me the Toyota parts I needed. All of it is available from the dealer. I forget what the block off plates are from. But they are oem parts. I am sure the witsend part works as well.
Oem gaskets and block off in the stock O2 location. New 02 in the manifolds. Freeze out plug in the air cleaner. I don't think there was more than that. It has been 100,000 miles with no codes thrown.
Oem gaskets and block off in the stock O2 location. New 02 in the manifolds. Freeze out plug in the air cleaner. I don't think there was more than that. It has been 100,000 miles with no codes thrown.
youll need 2 keychains and 2 gaskets for said keychains
What is the 1st pic of that you are holding ?
And is this something that can be deleted?
Trying to figure out if this is worth doing if everything seems to be working OK.
My vote is yes. I added keychains, eliminated and tossed all the mess, added a cap on the air intake, and upgraded to the newer hardpipe coolant line. I've had no issues at all. Only hard to find part when I did it was the newer version of the accelerator cable bracket. No regrets.
Can you tell me exactly what needs to be removed for the pair system and what
Parts are required etc to do this ? And where to find parts,parts numbers?
Thanks in advance
It's pretty straightforward for removing, and there are several threads detailing the process and the parts you need. It's been a couple since I did it, and I don't remember exactly. You can order the 'keychains' from WitsEnd, and some have moved the O2 sensors to the manifold location with no issues. I didn't. Then you'll need a cap the right size to fit over the intake into the air filter housing. I used a plastic cap from large mouth oil bottle and some RTV sealant...worked perfectly. One Mud member used a taco bell salsa cap...also fit perfectly. As others have said, you don't have to upgrade to the 95-97 hardpipe, you can use a 5/8 gates green stripe. I upgraded to make it look cleaner and it bolted right on, but it was a pricey part. The accel cable bracket was hardest to get my hands on...not many were available in US at the time, but you can mod something up to make it work, I just wanted clean OEM look and function. My '94 idles perfectly now after removal, so I'm sure I had some vacuum leak or reed valve was shot or something, and you'll have a lot more space under there. Once I got parts it took all of an hour to get it all removed and updated. You'll want to soak the manifold bolts prior to attempting to back them off to add the plates.
Yes that is all the vsv s and vacuum lines under the intake. I deleted it all. I have two vacuum lines total on the truck. No egr no pair, charcoal canister vents to atmosphere instead of back into the engine. I have been this way for awhile no issues
QuackAxel
SILVER Star
Do you have any pictures of where you placed the sensors? I'm pulling my motor now and looking to delete the PAIR and EGR.
For the PAIR- Are there not 2 sensors down behind front passenger tire? Do both these sensors get moved? And then plug off air intake ?
for the EGR- are block off plates and the plug kit all that is needed?
Making sense of all the threads is daunting sometimes.
Thanks again!
- Thread starter
- #72
It been a while since I did it and I dont have pictures with me. I might be able to find some.
I might have it all backwards, sorry.
Pair i removed. Air filter hole I used a expanding rubber plug. I think I replaced a coolant hardline. Probably some other stuff.
Egr. I cant remember as much about this one. One thing I do remember is that I could not remove the big heard line near cylinder 6 with the head in the truck. I had the head off and i installed a proper block off plate. So if your motor is out i would take care of installing a proper block off plate on the head now. I moved the O2 rothe manifolds but you dont have to do that.
I used all oem block off plates and gaskets. Somone smart like Onur or Cdan sold them all to me. Probably from other toyotas but the all fit right. I cant remember all the little vacume lines I replaced or removed. But there is a lot of the. If you have the motor out it will be a lot easier for you to see the lines around the intake manifolds
More or less what @rc51kid has said. Remove the PAIR hardware, block off the air filter with a rubber bung from the Home Depot. Cap the vacuum lines. Once the hardware is removed you will have 2 holes in your exhaust manifolds. You can choose to block these off or relocate the O2 sensors from their current position and fit them in the manifold. If you are intending on fitting new O2 sensors then just leave the old ones where they are and fit the new ones in the exhaust manifold. That will save you from buying/making block off plates. I think the P/N for the gaskets is 89466-20020. The O2's run perfectly in the manifold and are out of all the muck and crap from driving. Once you are done, order one of these 87208-60161 and one of these 15785-66010. That will give you the cleaner look of the '95+ engine bay.
QuackAxel
SILVER Star
Yea pictures would help if you could find em?? If not no big deal I'll muddle through.
What's the hard line part number you gave me for? I followed you till you mentioned ths part numbers? I guess I'm confused on that one.
When your delete is complete you will have a bypass pipe that looks like this - with a large portion of rubber hose that appears to be swerving round an invisible object.
The P/N I listed will give you the straight pipe that is used on the '95-'97 models that don't have PAIR. You will get a little more room to to install a @yodaTEQ burrito warmer or a York OBA system from @NLXTACY
The P/N I listed will give you the straight pipe that is used on the '95-'97 models that don't have PAIR. You will get a little more room to to install a @yodaTEQ burrito warmer or a York OBA system from @NLXTACY
I believe the later bracket is NLA which is why i had to fab my own.
