'93 1fz-fe engine knock. Main bearings = toast = cracked crank

[mudgudgeon]

Still waiting on return of my crank, and parts to ship.
Spent some time cleaning parts.

I'm replacing timing chain guides, and tensioner.
Guides are worn, and plastic guide surface is degraded and crazed on both guides with a few small chips missing

Also found the source of aluminum swarf found in the sump.
Power steering pump gear lock nut came loose, and backed off until it hit the timing cover. The pump gear also floated along the shaft and contracted the back of the timing. Timing cover has a neatly shaved mark from the gear, and a less neatly shaved groove from the nut.

Oil pump is pristine!

 

[manofthewoods]

Still waiting on return of my crank, and parts to ship.
Spent some time cleaning parts.

I'm replacing timing chain guides, and tensioner.
Guides are worn, and plastic guide surface is degraded and crazed on both guides with a few small chips missing

View attachment 2761462

View attachment 2761464

View attachment 2761465

Also found the source of aluminum swarf found in the sump.
Power steering pump gear lock nut came loose, and backed off until it hit the timing cover. The pump gear also floated along the shaft and contracted the back of the timing. Timing cover has a neatly shaved mark from the gear, and a less neatly shaved groove from the nut.

View attachment 2761466

Oil pump is pristine!

View attachment 2761467

I'm also waiting on a few parts. It's great that you found the source of the metal bits. Unless someone here talks me out of it, I'm going to be putting locktight blue on everything

 

[Spdstr280Z]

I'm also waiting on a few parts. It's great that you found the source of the metal bits. Unless someone here talks me out of it, I'm going to be putting locktight blue on everything

I have always been told thread lockers never go inside an engine, can't tell you why though. I assume potential contamination and the issues of meeting torque specs.

Jason

 

[Snowy105]

Hey @mudgudgeon, Going back to when you were taking the engine apart. How did you go about removing the harmonic balancer bolt that's been done up with the Odins force haha and what method did you use to stop the crank rotating while you got the bolt undone?

I'm at this point of my engine removal and I've tried using the starter with a breaker against the frame rail but it just hasn't worked, unfortunately.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Hey @mudgudgeon, Going back to when you were taking the engine apart. How did you go about removing the harmonic balancer bolt that's been done up with the Odins force haha and what method did you use to stop the crank rotating while you got the bolt undone?

I'm at this point of my engine removal and I've tried using the starter with a breaker against the frame rail but it just hasn't worked, unfortunately.

I had my engine out. Was already past being able to use the starter to bump it loose.

I used a short piece of chain bolted to the block with a bell housing bolt, and to flywheel with a clutch pressure plate bolt to stop the crank rotating.
Then I used a 2½ft long breaker bar and bounced on it to crack it loose.

I'll see if I took a photo

 

[manofthewoods]

Hey @mudgudgeon, Going back to when you were taking the engine apart. How did you go about removing the harmonic balancer bolt that's been done up with the Odins force haha and what method did you use to stop the crank rotating while you got the bolt undone?

I'm at this point of my engine removal and I've tried using the starter with a breaker against the frame rail but it just hasn't worked, unfortunately.

funny you bring this up. I was WAY worried about that baby on my engine; 'cause my engine was out as well. But, my trusty titanium Ingersoll Rand 1/2" pneumatic impact came through like a champ. Though I have to admit, it took nearly a minute before that sucker broke loose. Realistically, I'll bet that some mechanic that the PO used did the heavy lifting before me, and, didn't tighten it to "original" torque.

 

[Snowy105]

Awesome Thanks! yeah im just sorting out a long enough breaker at the moment. I've also been told that there is an inspection hole in the bell housing that I can put a deep 14mm socket through onto a bolt and that will stop the rotation as I try to undo the balancer bolt.
Now to get that long ass breaker bar and hang off it

 

[mudgudgeon]

Buy a decent one.
I twisted the end of one ½drive long breaker bar, and busted another before I bought the one I have now trying to undo the crank bolt on a 1hd-t.

I actually welded a 32mm socket into the top end of my 5ft high lift jack beam to use it as a braker bar.

Or, if you already have cordless tools, consider buying a ½ drive heavy duty rattle gun skin

 

[gummycarbs]

I used a Neiko 1/2" torque multiplier for both removal and installation. Worked great and didn't require sourcing a giant breaker bar or torque wrench. $209 on Amazon. Made in Taiwan.

Amazon product ASIN B0017K5ARU

 

[mudgudgeon]

I used a Neiko 1/2" torque multiplier for both removal and installation. Worked great and didn't require sourcing a giant breaker bar or torque wrench. $209 on Amazon. Made in Taiwan.

Amazon product ASIN B0017K5ARU

Dang it Mud!! now I NEED another toy!

 

[Snowy105]

I used a Neiko 1/2" torque multiplier for both removal and installation. Worked great and didn't require sourcing a giant breaker bar or torque wrench. $209 on Amazon. Made in Taiwan.

Amazon product ASIN B0017K5ARU

Yeah cool, thanks for the recommendation!

@mudgudgeon that's a serious breaker bar using a highlift jack!!

I was just going to give my sidchrome 1/2" drive breaker a chance first, if that doesn't do the job I was going to go for a 3/4" drive bar and socket.

 

[mudgudgeon]

@mudgudgeon that's a serious breaker bar using a highlift jack!!

Yeah, makes me chuckle every time I pick up my high lift

 

[mudgudgeon]

@Snowy105 pic of the end of my 2½ft breaker bar.

Most ½" breaker bars I've seen, the bar is split, with the ½" drive pinned in the middle.

This one, the bar is pinned in the yolk of the ½" drive.
I've swung off this one pretty good a few times. The bar flexes quite a bit, but springs back

 

[Snowy105]

Yeah cool. So i had a go with what I've got and i ended up bending both the breaker bar and the pole I was using

too much leverage, not enough support.

Now I’ve been lent a big 3/4 drive bar and 30mm socket from my very kind mechanic and the 14mm socket on the flywheel bolt is just flying off and destroying the bolt head!

This thing is crazy tight!!!

Any other suggestions for jamming up the flywheel?

or should I just drop the lower and upper sumps off and wedge something between the block and the crankshaft?

My other main concern doing this in the car is when it lets go I’m assuming it’s really going to go and I’ll probably end up with the big long bar cracking me in the head and or arms connecting with the car.
So maybe I’m better off doing this with some heat on an engine stand after all

 

[Pin_Head]

Wedging a block of wood between the crank and the block definitely works, but if you have a welder it might be easier to fabricate a tool from 6mm strap that bolts to two flywheel clutch bolts to hold the crank.

 

[Snowy105]

Wedging a block of wood between the crank and the block definitely works, but if you have a welder it might be easier to fabricate a tool from 6mm strap that bolts to two flywheel clutch bolts to hold the crank.

Yep I’m looking into that now.
Something else I just thought of might be to remove one of the 14mm bolts through the inspection hole and just bolt in a longer one that sticks out against the housing. At least that way it can’t slip out while I’m reefing on the breaker bar up front.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Yep I’m looking into that now.
Something else I just thought of might be to remove one of the 14mm bolts through the inspection hole and just bolt in a longer one that sticks out against the housing. At least that way it can’t slip out while I’m reefing on the breaker bar up front.

I'd be wary of bending a bolt and getting it stuck in there if the crank did rotate with this method.

Block of wood between crank and block would be my choice i think.

Your ¾" gal water pipe clamp dealio may as well have been cheese

 

[mudgudgeon]

My other main concern doing this in the car is when it lets go I’m assuming it’s really going to go and I’ll probably end up with the big long bar cracking me in the head and or arms connecting with the car.
So maybe I’m better off doing this with some heat on an engine stand after all

I would persevere with the engine in the car. If it's tight, you'll have more trouble with it on an engine stand. When I did my HD-T, I battled this on a stand. Undoing it without tipping the stand over was sketchy AF. I had to brace the stand and the engine block to stop it rotating.

Has your kind mechanic got a big rattle gun you can borrow for a few minutes?

 

[Snowy105]

Yeah after some thought, engine in the car is best.
He may do, though I think it is air, which doesn’t help cause I can’t get the car to him amd I don’t have a compressor.

I have a decent rattle gun that may do the job but it just doesn’t fit between the A/C condenser and the bolt unfortunately.

I’ve got a flywheel bolt out and will persevere with trying to find a bolt in the vicinity of 75mm long that will work to replace it and stop the engine rotating.
If this doesn’t work I’ll source some steel and make a pulley holder.

Now, enough thread hi jacking lol
Back to normal programming.

@mudgudgeon have you got your crank back yet?

 

[AussieHJCruza]

Dodgy, but breaker bar against the chassis and bump the starter? I haven't got a 1FZ here but from memory, it should be the correct rotation to loosen.