'93 1fz-fe engine knock. Main bearings = toast = cracked crank

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Got the engine stripped down as much a I want to for now.

Top end all still looks sweet.

I will replace timing chain guides and tensioner. Guides are a bit worn, but not severely.

Oil pump is perfect.

Water pump looks perfect too.

I refreshed my power steering pump when I did the head gasket. The nut holding the drive gear on had unwound about half way. I had torqued it to spec.
Not sure whether to use loctite on it, or punch it after retorquing.

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Conrod journals on the crank all look perfect

Main bearing journal 2, 3 and 5, 6 are all damaged. A couple look like I could clean them up, two look a bit too damaged to deal with in the garage. I can feel grooves in the two worst ones.
I'll try and get the crank checked and linished by a machine shop.
Journal 1, 4, 7 are all perfect.

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mudgudgeon said:
Thanks. I'll check tensioner too then.

At this point, main bearings are obviously toast, but looking at other potential issues too


I left the transmission bolted to the cross member, slung a ratchet strap around the chassis rails and under the bell housing, and cracked it tight to support the gear box, then yanked the engine only.

I took the radiator out, but left AC condensor and radiator support in place.

I used a couple of long extension bars to undo bell housing bolts. The top two took some stabbing in the dark, but wasn't too bad.

Hopefully it goes in as easy as it came out
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Yeah cool, that was my plan for my removal. Although mine is auto it shouldn't make too much difference I don't think. Also depends on what engine crane I can get as to whether I take out the core support or not. 2" lift and 33's just means I need more height.
 
Snowy105 said:
Yeah cool, that was my plan for my removal. Although mine is auto it shouldn't make too much difference I don't think. Also depends on what engine crane I can get as to whether I take out the core support or not. 2" lift and 33's just means I need more height.
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Yeah, I had to fully deflate front tyres (33s) to get the engine clear of the radiator support
 
Snowy105 said:
By the description you gave of the potential carnage at the beginning to seeing what you found. It would seem that it could have been a whole lot worse!
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Definitely could have been worse. I'm glad I shut it down and towed it when I did.

Kicking myself too though, because it was probably avoidable if I'd torn the bottom end down when I did the head gasket.
 
Pin_Head said:
Check the oil pump drive gear thrust clearance and replace the pump / front cover if it is worn out of spec. The oil pump assembly is not that expensive and the drive gear can make a knocking noise if it has too much play.
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I'm yet to check clearances, but oil pump looks super clean, no signs of adverse wear.
 
Damn dude, sorry about the misfortune of your engine. Btw, you seem a much more advanced than just a shade tree mechanic.
 
Dropped the crank at a machine shop today. It needs a regrind on the main bearings, and linish on conrod journals.
Well likely take a week. Which sucks, was hoping to have this back together by the end of the week.
 
FMC80 said:
Btw, you seem a much more advanced than just a shade tree mechanic.
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I like to make shït happen. Even when it's stacked against me.

I currently am in between places, don't really have a great place to work, and a lot of my stuff is in storage.

I contemplated buying or hiring engine crane and engine stand, but covid lock downs here complicate that badly. And the space I have to work isn't conducive to these anyway.

I can pay thousands to have someone repair it, if someone is available on short notice, or do the best with what I have.

Ok, so . . .
improvise the shït out of things and make it work!

Improvised a gantry using abandoned scaffolding in the storage yard I'm at, and made a girder trolley to lift out the engine with a little chain block.

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(My only slightly interested son being a monkey)

Trolley let me lift it, and swing it into the container, then put it on a dolly.
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(Had to beef up the tube)

Had to deflate tires to get clear of the rad support and fenders

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Set up another gantry inside the container to suspend the engine at working height. Use the chain block to turn it over as needed.
(No pic of gantry)

Kind of primitive, but effective, and I've spent nothing to do this.

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Subway provided a free spigot bearing "puller/press" with my lunch

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Stuffed wet napkins into the bearing and drove a punch in repeatedly to press the bearing out.
 
The flywheel has been dropped off for machining too.
It also looks in pretty good condition. A few hot spots, but no nasty wear

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Pressure plate on the original Aisin clutch also looks to be in good condition. Again a few hotspots, but otherwise all the machining grooves are still clearly visible.

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Friction plate is fairly well worn.

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I had a new clutch kit ready to go in (part of what motivated me to pull the engine).
 
I can one up your improvised gantry. I dropped another engine in my LN106 hilux while I was rebuilding the original. The guy I bought it off had one for sale at a really good price... if you'd come along and help him pull it lol. He had a "gantree", which was a big ass tree he slung some chain over a branch of and hung a block and tackle off. Did the job! :D
 
Where there is a will there is a way right? That's some inventive problem solving right there! impressive. I have a very small one-car garage where I am and I'm fresh out of mates with free shed space.
So it looks like ill be buying an engine crane, stand etc, and doing the job here at my place.
I don't really have the luxury of accessible machine shops nearby so I've decided on sourcing a second hand engine that is better than what I have now and just doing a straight swap to keep the car on the road.
Then I can decide if I'm going to repair or rebuild the original....or just get rid of it and save up for an LS or FTE swap.
 
mudgudgeon said:
The flywheel has been dropped off for machining too.
It also looks in pretty good condition. A few hot spots, but no nasty wear

View attachment 2754138

Pressure plate on the original Aisin clutch also looks to be in good condition. Again a few hotspots, but otherwise all the machining grooves are still clearly visible.

View attachment 2754139

Friction plate is fairly well worn.

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I had a new clutch kit ready to go in (part of what motivated me to pull the engine).
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So a really detailled question, haha. What size sockets were required to remove the big end and main bearing caps? Im gonna guess it was 12mm and 14mm???
 
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