I bought a 92 lc with about 190k had if for a good while took it out a lot. My last trip took it out fishing and overheated the cooling system was empty due to my part not checking the radiator coolant. Pulled over when i noticed it overheating and open the rad cap to let it cool down. Then i refilled with water and drove home fine. So then i decided to flush the system to refill it and noticed water pump was leaking. I replaced the water pump and took the radiator in for repairs as well. I researched almost every thread on here and noticed some overheating was caused due to head gasket so i went ahead and bought the head gasket set and put all that together. Before it would overheat while using the a/c, now it overheats while driving normally. Is it overheating because air is in the cooling and heating system? I looked all over for bleeding the system and found nothing would really appreciate all your help since im out of answers. Also i took out the thermostat to let it circulate better but no help and did the fan clutch putting in 15k silicone.
92 land cruiser overheating problem
- Thread starter livstrong
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Bleeding the system (coolant) involves parking the truck with the radiator cap being the highest point of the system. Remove cap (vehicle cold), start engine, turn heater on hot, and observe and refill coolant levels in radiator. Once it is full and has been circulating 5 minutes or so, put the cap back on and you're good to go.
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The HG seem to be OK there was a lot of rust build up don't have any pics of it. I did try jacking it up but what happens is coolant keeps over flowing out. The last time I drove it, it over heated and shot coolant out of the reservoir hose.
1. Head gasket problems are not common to the 3FE motor, which is in your 92. 93+ got the 1FZ-FE motor. So I would say you did a lot of work for zero gain and possibly made the situation worse.
2. I have never had to "burp" a cooling system, even after a radiator replacement. Turn on the heater, fill the radiator, fill the overflow. Run the motor for a few seconds. Refill radiator if necessary.
If you leave the cap off with the motor running for more than a minute, as the coolant heats it will overflow right out of the fill port. Any residual air will find its way to the top of the tank. When the system cools, coolant will be pulled back from the overflow. Check again when cold.
Since the water pump was leaking, I'd say that was the root cause of your overheating issue. If the cooling system can't hold pressure, you will loose coolant as the system pressurizes and it will boil off. Cooling systems should be sealed with the only pressure relief being the radiator cap.
As far as your current situation, I have no idea. It sure sounds like you made it worse. Did you use OEM parts or aftermarket?
2. I have never had to "burp" a cooling system, even after a radiator replacement. Turn on the heater, fill the radiator, fill the overflow. Run the motor for a few seconds. Refill radiator if necessary.
If you leave the cap off with the motor running for more than a minute, as the coolant heats it will overflow right out of the fill port. Any residual air will find its way to the top of the tank. When the system cools, coolant will be pulled back from the overflow. Check again when cold.
Since the water pump was leaking, I'd say that was the root cause of your overheating issue. If the cooling system can't hold pressure, you will loose coolant as the system pressurizes and it will boil off. Cooling systems should be sealed with the only pressure relief being the radiator cap.
As far as your current situation, I have no idea. It sure sounds like you made it worse. Did you use OEM parts or aftermarket?
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- #7
Yes i used oem parts and i doubt i made it worse just that i didnt gain any difference. The lc runs very well just cant get rid of the overheating problem. I did replace the hg and all the other gasket it came with which was a good experience and i dont have to worry about the hg. Thank you all for your help and im still trying to solve this issue.
Have you checked ignition timing and valve clearances? Both can cause a motor to run hot if misadjusted.
The OEM thermostat requires 2 gaskets. 1 seals the 2 halves of the housing and is a paper gasket. The second is an o-ring that sits on top of the thermostat. That top o-ring makes it all work properly.
Have your coolant checked for combustion gasses.
Have your oil checked for coolant.
Are you loosing coolant?
The OEM thermostat requires 2 gaskets. 1 seals the 2 halves of the housing and is a paper gasket. The second is an o-ring that sits on top of the thermostat. That top o-ring makes it all work properly.
Have your coolant checked for combustion gasses.
Have your oil checked for coolant.
Are you loosing coolant?
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- #9
yes did timing and valves adjustment. I'm gonna try and get a new radiator since when I have the car running without the cap the coolant doesn't circulate. It overflows a little and bubbles a little too. There is no coolant in the oil so I'm gonna try and replace the radiator hopefully this solves the problem.
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My problem was radiator cap, got the OEM and problem solved. If you haven't replaced it, you might want to try that. Also keep the thermostat, even here that we have 85 degrees year around we keep them. 
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- #13
I believe the fan still works and i put in 15k silicone oil. I cant stop it with a newspaper rolled up. I'm going to replace the radiator and radiator cap and maybe the fan this is the only thing left that i have not replaced.
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Also, for good measure I added two electric fans, one 19 inch tha covers the oil cooler and a 12 inch to the right side to the front of the radiator. That helps a lot at low speeds.
You said "since when I have the car running without the cap the coolant doesn't circulate" "with the thermostat out". This must be the water pump. Could be a blockage in the system, but you are talking a severe blockage, like the main top or bottom radiator hoses, I believe the rest of the system would be partial blockage, but should still circulate.
Since you seem willing to do the work, I'd think simple. Check for blockages in top & bottom main hoses, not likely, but this is an ODD circumstance & it's free. Then take off the water pump and make sure it turns with the pulley with a little resistance like it's pumping water.
I think something simple is being overlooked.
Since you seem willing to do the work, I'd think simple. Check for blockages in top & bottom main hoses, not likely, but this is an ODD circumstance & it's free. Then take off the water pump and make sure it turns with the pulley with a little resistance like it's pumping water.
I think something simple is being overlooked.
This is really interesting, was there any resolve?
Be leave it or not I'm in same boat with my 80 series landcruiser with 3fe motor I've completely rebuild top end of motor new radiator new water pump new thermostat Ive run out of things top replace and it still over heats at high speed I'm stumped
Have you replaced the fan clutch with a new OEM green hub?
Is your fan shroud in place and tight against the radiator?
Fan shroud doesn't make a difference and I replaced old clutch fan and radiator with a vk radiator and thermo fan it helped a lil but still over heating at high speed thermo fixed low speed overheating