87-88 4runner 22re oil sender ?'s

[jhnLennon]

Exactly. Current goes thru the gauge, to the sender, which sends it to ground (via the engine block). If you have the smaller switch sender, when the engine starts it closes and sends full current to the ground, which is too much for the fragile coil in the gauge, and it goes POOF. With the larger sender, it has a variable resistor in it, which never goes down to 0 ohms, so the gauge is protected.

The connector on the wiring harness is the same for both senders, I believe. If you have the small boot on the harness, then it originally had the small sender "switch" on the truck, which fried the gauge on the dash.

the current source is regulated before the guage not after.the only way you can send to much curent through the guage is a faulty voltage regulator(the dash cluster has its own).not to mention the guage is part of the circuit(ie blown guage incomplete circuit no power to the wire).there is always 4.5 volts going through the guage,resistance is the measurement of how much power(amperage) is needed to push the current through the wire.the guage is measuring how fast the ground is being bleed off after the guage.a faulty or wrong sender will not blow out the guage just give an inaccurate reading.hook up guage to direct ground it should read full,it wont wreck it.voltage doesnt change resistance does.if it doesnt read full then it is the guage.

 

[KLF]

I think we're saying the same thing, except you're not getting one VERY important thing. If you connect the SR5 gauges with the oil pressure gauge to a truck without changing the sender, you will fry the gauge. It will go POOF. It does this because TOO MUCH CURRENT GOES THRU THE GAUGE.

Here:

http://www.brian894x4.com/Gaugecluster.html

http://siestaoff-road.web1000.com/clustertech.html

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=209942

 

[jhnLennon]

I think we're saying the same thing, except you're not getting one VERY important thing. If you connect the SR5 gauges with the oil pressure gauge to a truck without changing the sender, you will fry the gauge. It will go POOF. It does this because TOO MUCH CURRENT GOES THRU THE GAUGE.

Here:

http://www.brian894x4.com/Gaugecluster.html

http://siestaoff-road.web1000.com/clustertech.html

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=209942

he has power to the wire which means he has a complete circuit,if the guage was burnt(shorted)he would not have power coming through it.like i said the guage is internally regulated to 4.5 volts max,the only way you can fry the guage is to apply more currnet than it was designed to carry.since it is internally regulated it would be pretty hard to do that.what fried the guages on those links is kinda strange.i dont think it was the wrong sender though,unless maybe they left it full grounded for like hours or something.

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

I've heard more than one person say they fried the gauge by not changing the sender first....

 

[jhnLennon]

the 93 fsm on this site in the faq says to test guage by running wire through 3 watt bulb(which should have little to no resistance)direct to ground.so a zero resistance condition such as closed idiot light switch shouldnt affect it at least within a resonable amout of time.

 

[pappy]

So far KLF has been spot on the money.

In this image you are showing the OEM sender for the idiot light. It has a spade connector.

In this image you are showing the OEM sender for the SR5 gauge. It has a button connector.

In this image you are showing the multi-purpose connector used to connect both senders. It attaches to the gauge sender on the side of the connector, not the end like the idiot light. Don't worry about the connector and how it hooks up. Just worry about which sender you are using with the dash.

This image looks like an aftermarket sender.

In my image it shows how the SR5 gauge sender hooks up.