Ok, good to know. To do the job right my windshield may need to be removed, but now I know I don't need to take the fenders off first!
Thanks again for checking for me.
Thanks again for checking for me.
84 FJ60 Resto,
- Thread starter SKINNER
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #62
No, they came powdercoated from 4WPW, however, they match the frame and axles really well.
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- #63
Yeah, the only reason you'd have to take the fenders off is if you replaced the entire cowl, as it wraps down the outer firewall/upper forward door jamb.
- Thread starter
- #64
Pictures from last night/this morning. Drum brakes are rebuilt (shoes, drums, hardware), calipers rebuilt, trans, transfer, and OD resealed and cleaned/painted, clutch replaced, yada, yada, yada 
Lets just get to the pics:
Werd.
Lets just get to the pics:
Werd.
Skinner,
Thanks for showing all of us these phototos. Very extensive tear down and rebuild and repair job. Kind of reminds me of the extensive 9 month tear downs we did on our millitary aircraft. gives you a good peace of mind that nothing will happen to the body or frame for a very long time. Keep up the good work and dont spend to much time away from you wife of she may hate you.
Thanks for showing all of us these phototos. Very extensive tear down and rebuild and repair job. Kind of reminds me of the extensive 9 month tear downs we did on our millitary aircraft. gives you a good peace of mind that nothing will happen to the body or frame for a very long time. Keep up the good work and dont spend to much time away from you wife of she may hate you.
- Thread starter
- #66
No pictures tonight, the weather was so nice today that I spent the majority of the day riding my motorcycle. But, this evening, I did get manage to get all of the fuel and brake lines installed on the frame and axles, and replace all of the flex hoses.
- Thread starter
- #67
Man, 2 weeks with no update...you guys need to hold me accountable.
Alright, since the chassis is basically completed (still need to rebuild both drive shafts and install the intake) I started focusing on the body.
I took the tank out last week to prepare for installing the fuel pump. I've decided to cut a hole in top of the tank with the same bolt pattern as the stock sender and then modify the stock sender to accept the GM fuel pump. I made a steel puck to cover the old sender hole in the tank. Couple pics:
Last night I tore the firewall apart so that I can paint. I've decided to go with a black underhood/floor to match the chassis. Couple pics:
Finally, I built another "drop cloth tent" and started glass beading the floor today in prep for RustBullet and paint (same as chassis). Couple pics (pre blasting):
Alright, since the chassis is basically completed (still need to rebuild both drive shafts and install the intake) I started focusing on the body.
I took the tank out last week to prepare for installing the fuel pump. I've decided to cut a hole in top of the tank with the same bolt pattern as the stock sender and then modify the stock sender to accept the GM fuel pump. I made a steel puck to cover the old sender hole in the tank. Couple pics:
Last night I tore the firewall apart so that I can paint. I've decided to go with a black underhood/floor to match the chassis. Couple pics:
Finally, I built another "drop cloth tent" and started glass beading the floor today in prep for RustBullet and paint (same as chassis). Couple pics (pre blasting):
great work..............man i wish i had your shop.
- Thread starter
- #69
Thanks for the compliments!
Here are a couple of pics after glass beading the rear portion of the floor. Pretty quick process, this took less than 1 hour. The cream/tan color is the factory panel sealer.
I have found a slight bit of rust in both rear quarters, and a giant bondo hack job on the passenger rear fender lip...I'm going to try to uncover that this afternoon....
Here are a couple of pics after glass beading the rear portion of the floor. Pretty quick process, this took less than 1 hour. The cream/tan color is the factory panel sealer.
I have found a slight bit of rust in both rear quarters, and a giant bondo hack job on the passenger rear fender lip...I'm going to try to uncover that this afternoon....
- Thread starter
- #71
I'm planning on spraying it with ATF, used oil, or something similar after everything is done.
very cool. what's the dimensions of your shop I am building one soon and yours seems pretty great
- Thread starter
- #73
Thanks, man! It is 30x36.
- Joined
- Feb 4, 2008
- Threads
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Very nice progress! Your build is looking better and better every time I check this thread. So you are going to put black shell on the entire body? I hope you are because I plan on trying it and I can't wait to see what yours looks like. that's a good idea on the used motor oil on the inside of the frame, I might do that as well. Keep up the good work!
Pictures with the meats fitted up. I know it's only short term, but I wanted to see what she looked like. i still have to finish the rear brakes and get the front hubs installed (neither local NAPA has a 54mm or 2 1/8 socket, WTF?)
what size are the tires?
- Thread starter
- #77
BFG 33x10.50R15's
x2. Did you prep the bottom for blasting or did the glass beads remove the undercoating?
- Thread starter
- #80
I am using a 20 gallon pressure pot blaster from Eastwood, 3.5mm tip, and I think #8 Glass Beads.
I didn't do anything special to prep other than tape any holes that go through to the interior of the cab. I just blasted with the glass until the dirt, paint, and grease buildup was gone. I chose not to remove the factory sealer/undercoating, but the blaster will easily remove it with glass beads if you stay in the same place for more than 2-3 seconds. Of course, if you wanted to remove the factory sealer you could always swap to Garnet or a harder blasting media.
I didn't do anything special to prep other than tape any holes that go through to the interior of the cab. I just blasted with the glass until the dirt, paint, and grease buildup was gone. I chose not to remove the factory sealer/undercoating, but the blaster will easily remove it with glass beads if you stay in the same place for more than 2-3 seconds. Of course, if you wanted to remove the factory sealer you could always swap to Garnet or a harder blasting media.