80 series sputter. RTH'ish driving

[LandCruzrNY]

95 Landcruiser. New head gasket about 25,000 miles ago. Along with new water pump, thermostat, blue fan clutch, plugs, wires, distributor and some other items.

Had my mechanic put on a new blue fan clutch, alternator, and belts last week.

Everything I have bought is a OEM except for the blue fan clutch.

When I leave a red light and push on the gas, it sputters a little bit. But it goes, and at about 12 mph it goes great. I've driven across several states effortlessly for the most part.

The issue only occurs when stopped at a stop sign or red light and pushing on the gas.

If I push on the gas very gently it won't sputter at all.

I have been running 87 octane with Lucas fuel injector cleaner at every fill up.

It does it in first gear, in second gear when leaving a light as well.

No CEL.

I'm hesitant to bring it to Mechanic on my trip. Any suggestions?

 

[OffRoadScott]

Check your O2 sensors, transmission fluid level (hot), vacuum leaks, knock sensors.

The O2 senors could be causing a lean/rich condition.

Not enough ATF can cause problems.

Vacuum leaks can be checked with brake cleaner or carb cleaner to see if there are leaks. The RPM will/could change do to the introduction of the carb/brake cleaner.

Maybe your knock sensors plug broke and fell off the sensor.

 

[LandCruzrNY]

Check your O2 sensors, transmission fluid level (hot), vacuum leaks, knock sensors.

The O2 senors could be causing a lean/rich condition.

Not enough ATF can cause problems.

Vacuum leaks can be checked with brake cleaner or carb cleaner to see if there are leaks. The RPM will/could change do to the introduction of the carb/brake cleaner.

Maybe your knock sensors plug broke and fell off the sensor.

OK, I will pick up a thing of carb cleaner. I presume spread around the various vacuum hoses to see if I hear or see any difference.

I will check the O2 sensors to make sure they are plugged in. And I will check the transmission fluid level.

It started doing it immediately after going to the mechanic. So perhaps they hit one of the plugs on a sensor.

 

[OffRoadScott]

OK, I will pick up a thing of carb cleaner. I presume spread around the various vacuum hoses to see if I hear or see any difference.

I will check the O2 sensors to make sure they are plugged in. And I will check the transmission fluid level.

It started doing it immediately after going to the mechanic. So perhaps they hit one of the plugs on a sensor.

Spray the carb cleaner around the vacuum hoses if it makes a difference in RPMs you know you have a leak.

Get yourself a small mirror to check the sensors under the intake manifold. They can get brittle with old age and break.

Check the resitance on your O2 sensors, the FSM calls for 5.5-6 ohms. If the LC is warmed up unplug the sensors and check the resistance. I tried looking up which wires to check but just check all 4 wires till you get a resistance reading.

 

[ppc]

Check the main wiring harness where it passes the EGR for heat damage.

 

[BILT4ME]

95 Landcruiser. New head gasket about 25,000 miles ago. Along with new water pump, thermostat, blue fan clutch, plugs, wires, distributor and some other items.

Had my mechanic put on a new blue fan clutch, alternator, and belts last week.

Everything I have bought is a OEM except for the blue fan clutch.

When I leave a red light and push on the gas, it sputters a little bit. But it goes, and at about 12 mph it goes great. I've driven across several states effortlessly for the most part.

The issue only occurs when stopped at a stop sign or red light and pushing on the gas.

If I push on the gas very gently it won't sputter at all.

I have been running 87 octane with Lucas fuel injector cleaner at every fill up.

It does it in first gear, in second gear when leaving a light as well.

No CEL.

I'm hesitant to bring it to Mechanic on my trip. Any suggestions?

Since your 95 is OBD2, you may want to consider a UltraGauge so you can check and monitor your real time O2 sensor readings. I was having wierd running issues and they were very inconsistent.
I pulled up a page that I could constantly watch them and one sensor would work fine for a bit, then lock into one value and the computer would try to compensate and it got horrible mileage and was low on power.

Changed the O2 sensor and problem went away.

I love it for diagnostic reasons!

 

[LandCruzrNY]

Since your 95 is OBD2, you may want to consider a UltraGauge so you can check and monitor your real time O2 sensor readings. I was having wierd running issues and they were very inconsistent.
I pulled up a page that I could constantly watch them and one sensor would work fine for a bit, then lock into one value and the computer would try to compensate and it got horrible mileage and was low on power.

Changed the O2 sensor and problem went away.

I love it for diagnostic reasons!

I have the ultragauge. No trouble codes. No pending codes.

I've been getting 16mpg pretty steady.

How do you see the O2 sensor readings real time?

 

[BILT4ME]

I have the ultragauge. No trouble codes. No pending codes.

I've been getting 16mpg pretty steady.

How do you see the O2 sensor readings real time?

On the back of the gauge, right side, there are two buttons. One high, one low. Push the bottom one and it will change the page you are on. If none of the pages show what you want you need to go into the setup mode, select a page you want to modify, then work at bringing the O2 sensor information so it is visible.

You may have to read up on it. They have a manual that is kind of lengthy and hard to read, but once you get it, it's very logical.

Usually, one or two pages have the O2 sensors on it as default.

I thought I had a picture of it but I don't.

Otherwise, I would look at the TPS. Throttle Position Sensor since it's only doing it from a stop and in all gears.

 

[LandCruzrNY]

On the back of the gauge, right side, there are two buttons. One high, one low. Push the bottom one and it will change the page you are on. If none of the pages show what you want you need to go into the setup mode, select a page you want to modify, then work at bringing the O2 sensor information so it is visible.

You may have to read up on it. They have a manual that is kind of lengthy and hard to read, but once you get it, it's very logical.

Usually, one or two pages have the O2 sensors on it as default.

I thought I had a picture of it but I don't.

Otherwise, I would look at the TPS. Throttle Position Sensor since it's only doing it from a stop and in all gears.

Great, thank you. I'll get the settings on the ultra gauge. Where is throttle position sensor? Just look at plug/connection?

 

[BILT4ME]

Great, thank you. I'll get the settings on the ultra gauge. Where is throttle position sensor? Just look at plug/connection?

TPS is on the side of the throttle body.

Go through the FSM and do a diagnosis to see if it is within range or just throw money at it.

 

[LandCruzrNY]

TPS is on the side of the throttle body.

Go through the FSM and do a diagnosis to see if it is within range or just throw money at it.

I got the ultragauge setup. Here's a video.

 

[Kernal]

So did all the symptoms start after someone worked on your vehicle?

 

[LandCruzrNY]

So did all the symptoms start after someone worked on your vehicle?

Yes. After mechanic did belts, fan clutch, and alternator. They did brake pads on all 4 too.

 

[BILT4ME]

Yes. After mechanic did belts, fan clutch, and alternator. They did brake pads on all 4 too.

If they did alternator, look at the sensors behind there. Knock sensors and temp sensors. Could be a wire is off or broken.

Also make sure all the wires on the alternator are tight as well as battery terminals.

The initial look at those readings on the O2 sensors are doing what they are supposed to do.

Do a Google search on What do oxygen sensor readings mean? and it will tell you about the numbers and why they change quickly.

 

[LandCruzrNY]

If they did alternator, look at the sensors behind there. Knock sensors and temp sensors. Could be a wire is off or broken.

Also make sure all the wires on the alternator are tight as well as battery terminals.

The initial look at those readings on the O2 sensors are doing what they are supposed to do.

Do a Google search on What do oxygen sensor readings mean? and it will tell you about the numbers and why they change quickly.

So, I got a look at transmission fluid it is good.

Then I started looking at sensors. One of the sensors looks like it was recently broke off in a little bit of coolant is coming out from where it sits. Not in the top line of sensors, underneath the first sensor and to the top left of the oil filter.

 

[BILT4ME]

Sue, I got a look at transmission fluid it is good.

Then I started looking at sensors. One of the sensors looks like it was recently broke off in a little bit of coolant is coming out from where it sits. Not in the top line of sensors, underneath the first sensor and to the top left of the oil filter.

View attachment 3405388

See sensor from another thread.

 

[LandCruzrNY]

See sensor from another thread.

View attachment 3405418

So the coolant sensor looks like it is leaking onto the piece below. If I'm getting temperature readings on the ultragauge then is it just likely that the sensor needs to be tightened, or some FIPG put on it? Any chance this is the culprit of the stumbling?

 

[BILT4ME]

So the coolant sensor looks like it is leaking onto the piece below. If I'm getting temperature readings on the ultragauge then is it just likely that the sensor needs to be tightened, or some FIPG put on it? Any chance this is the culprit of the stumbling?

There are two temp sensors.

One is for the computer and one is for the gauge.

If the one to the computer is broken, it will give the computer bad readings and it will not operate correctly because it will think it's still in open loop or other things.

There are two knock sensors. If one is inop, then it cannot measure correctly to the other and will give erroneous readings. Timing will not be adjusted properly by the ECU.

 

[LandCruzrNY]

There are two temp sensors.

One is for the computer and one is for the gauge.

If the one to the computer is broken, it will give the computer bad readings and it will not operate correctly because it will think it's still in open loop or other things.

There are two knock sensors. If one is inop, then it cannot measure correctly to the other and will give erroneous readings. Timing will not be adjusted properly by the ECU.

Both of the sensor wires for the coolant sensors are intact. One of the cooling sensors was replaced by Toyota a year or so ago. There is coolant leaking from the forward most coolant sensor. The one that goes to the gauge.

I see both knock sensors. The rear is hard to see, but I was able to. The wires are connected. Is there an easy way to determine which knock sensor is bad?

 

[BILT4ME]

Both of the sensor wires for the coolant sensors are intact. One of the cooling sensors was replaced by Toyota a year or so ago. There is coolant leaking from the forward most coolant sensor. The one that goes to the gauge.

I see both knock sensors. The rear is hard to see, but I was able to. The wires are connected. Is there an easy way to determine which knock sensor is bad?

I would have to consult the FSM for that.