YES, that's a superSCORE
80 Series General Tech and Classifieds
- Thread starter MEMCruiser
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I would hit a bump in the road the motor would cut out briefly but come right back to life. Got it home and after about five minutes of searching I found a broken wire in the harness near the alternator. Wiggle the harness and I could kill the motor. Fifteen minutes later that was fixed and it runs like a top now. I figure the guy paid some "mechanic" to sort his problem out and all the guy did was throw parts at the problem...
Pics later
I have a similar problem with my 80, the 93/drama queen.
It started like a small misfire, which was not even noticeable, even in Moab last year.
Now the symptoms of the misfire are more noticeable and the truck shakes to the point that Alma says that there's something wrong with my truck.
I already change wires, cap & rotor with Toy parts. Spark plugs are in good shape.
No oil, neither black residuos of not burning gas properly.
I searched what I could, but sent it to the Mechanics.
any suggestion or fixes for this will be appreciated
JP
it comes and goes, it's always a small misfired on Parking.
...and on D the misfired is more pronounced to the point that the truck starts shaking, still drives and no chance of turning off completely.
I don't have the check engine light on at all.
I went earlier to the shop where I have the truck.They were washing the Injectors with some substance that is suppose to clean them and very strong. They applied this substance several times with about 35psi of pressure, As it is i don't even have a smelly tail pipe.
I mean no gas smell, no sweet smell of any kind that could be the head gasket.
I had read yesterday about the wire harness. I went and wiggled the harness and no big change since the small misfired was still there and the shaking of the truck did not showed.
I also cleaned the air filter and saw some powder dust/dirt residues on the base of the canister.
I cleaned the canister and the air filter.
I drove it for a little while and no sign of the bad shaking of the truck, but it still bothers me the small misfired.
They changed last year a lot of the old & dried hoses.
The truck still in the shop and they're going to spend some more time tomorrow.
We'll see what they can come up with.
...and on D the misfired is more pronounced to the point that the truck starts shaking, still drives and no chance of turning off completely.
I don't have the check engine light on at all.
I went earlier to the shop where I have the truck.They were washing the Injectors with some substance that is suppose to clean them and very strong. They applied this substance several times with about 35psi of pressure, As it is i don't even have a smelly tail pipe.
I mean no gas smell, no sweet smell of any kind that could be the head gasket.
I had read yesterday about the wire harness. I went and wiggled the harness and no big change since the small misfired was still there and the shaking of the truck did not showed.
I also cleaned the air filter and saw some powder dust/dirt residues on the base of the canister.
I cleaned the canister and the air filter.
I drove it for a little while and no sign of the bad shaking of the truck, but it still bothers me the small misfired.
They changed last year a lot of the old & dried hoses.
The truck still in the shop and they're going to spend some more time tomorrow.
We'll see what they can come up with.
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Explain this. Are you saying the truck tries to run on after you turn off the key? That is a timing issue.
no, sorry that's not what I meant.
What I meant was that the truck is shaking but not to the point that would cause it die.
it's just a strong shake.
sorry Daryl my mistake on the explanation.
What I meant was that the truck is shaking but not to the point that would cause it die.
it's just a strong shake.
sorry Daryl my mistake on the explanation.
OK then, next thing I would do is start the truck and let it warm up. With a glove on to protect you from the spark, start pulling one plug wire at a time and listen to the change in the motor. Only do this for a few moments for each cylinder then put the plug wire back on. See if one cylinder has no noticable change when you remove the plug wire. Hopefully each time you do this you can see/hear a noticable change in how the engine runs.
OK! Now what would be the conclusion of this?
when no change when wire is out?
I knew but I forgot, either spark plug is out and needs a new one, wire not working, but I really doubt it about the wire.
I'll come back later this evening.
when no change when wire is out?
I knew but I forgot, either spark plug is out and needs a new one, wire not working, but I really doubt it about the wire.
I'll come back later this evening.
If there is no change when you pull one wire it isolates the problem to one cylinder. From there it can either be a bad rotor, cap, wire, plug, valve, piston, head gasket, etc. We will have to test further from there to find out which it is.
Ok here's the outcome of the search.
The intake is out.
The injectors were cleaned and now I am looking for the O ring seals kit.
Anybody know of a good source?
I found them in Advance auto parts for about $8.00 per injector.
I am kind of hesitant with them since they were the hold up and the whole drama on the fuel injector last year before going to Moab.
I also tested the EGR and it is in good shape.
Now the other flying saucer, the EGR vacumm modulator valve assembly it does not work.
Blew air in it and nothing comes out on the other outlets.
I don't think that would caused the misfired but I would get that from Toyota
The fuel tube is in good shape.
They also did test on the spark plugs with wires out and that came out OK, no problem there.
We still on the search.
any help will be appreciated.
The intake is out.
The injectors were cleaned and now I am looking for the O ring seals kit.
Anybody know of a good source?
I found them in Advance auto parts for about $8.00 per injector.
I am kind of hesitant with them since they were the hold up and the whole drama on the fuel injector last year before going to Moab.
I also tested the EGR and it is in good shape.
Now the other flying saucer, the EGR vacumm modulator valve assembly it does not work.
Blew air in it and nothing comes out on the other outlets.
I don't think that would caused the misfired but I would get that from Toyota
The fuel tube is in good shape.
They also did test on the spark plugs with wires out and that came out OK, no problem there.
We still on the search.
any help will be appreciated.
A little tech for the weekend......
This number should apply to the 100 as well as the 80
My steering wheel has been WAY off kilter since I bent my drag link in Moab a year ago and since had the front end aligned.
In fact, it has been 180* off. Really annoying.
So I went to pull the wheel this weekend and the grab and snatch method that I used on the parts 80 I have just would not work.
In fact, I woke up this morning with super sore biceps and I could not remember what the hell I had done to stress them this weekend....
Anyway, the answer was that I needed a steering wheel puller that I did not have.
Greg has one but he was out of town and I had the airbag out and I wanted to get this little project done.
So I first found some 2" bolts that would fit in the steering wheel on each side of the 19mm center nut.
Then I needed a piece of steel that I could run between the nuts and would but pressure on the center stud while I tightened the nuts.
I was rummaging around and found one of these. All I had to do was enlarge the hole on one end about .001 and the wheel popped off in 4 turns of the nut once I got it snug. Take the hook out and use just the bent steel piece with the 2 holes.
I was so proud of myself
If anyone needs to use it, let me know.
This number should apply to the 100 as well as the 80
My steering wheel has been WAY off kilter since I bent my drag link in Moab a year ago and since had the front end aligned.
In fact, it has been 180* off. Really annoying.
So I went to pull the wheel this weekend and the grab and snatch method that I used on the parts 80 I have just would not work.
In fact, I woke up this morning with super sore biceps and I could not remember what the hell I had done to stress them this weekend....
Anyway, the answer was that I needed a steering wheel puller that I did not have.
Greg has one but he was out of town and I had the airbag out and I wanted to get this little project done.
So I first found some 2" bolts that would fit in the steering wheel on each side of the 19mm center nut.
Then I needed a piece of steel that I could run between the nuts and would but pressure on the center stud while I tightened the nuts.
I was rummaging around and found one of these. All I had to do was enlarge the hole on one end about .001 and the wheel popped off in 4 turns of the nut once I got it snug. Take the hook out and use just the bent steel piece with the 2 holes.
I was so proud of myself
If anyone needs to use it, let me know.
Couldn't have just taken the steering shaft off at the box and rotated the shaft 180* and reattached 
Isn't the "proper" way to adjust the relay rod?
Couldn't have just taken the steering shaft off at the box and rotated the shaft 180* and reattached
That would be harder, but sure, you could do that.
It was adjusted as best they could at 49 Tire. My sector shaft has a twist in it so everything is a bit catty wompus.
Hmmm... guess it's quite different from a mini-truck or 60 series
