I was hoping the 37s would get me on the jump from the easy 3s to the hard 3s and light 4s
Dang! Never knew you had them cam! How did they compare to the BFGs?
80 Series General Tech and Classifieds (5 Viewers)
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I was hoping the 37s would get me on the jump from the easy 3s to the hard 3s and light 4s
Dang! Never knew you had them cam! How did they compare to the BFGs?
Hold up... you’re able to do Easy 3’s with only 35s? GTFO...
[sarcasm/off]
I don’t want to brag, but...
... back in the day we did the easy 4s on 33s and stiff leaf springs
They are tougher and louder and more aggressive. And a lot stickier when new, but... I’m back on BFG ATs now.
My two cents -you are getting the maximum return on your 80 with the 35s. Anything bigger robs power and increases the risk of breakage. Anywhere they won’t take you, you don’t need to go unless you want to start putting dents in your sheetmetal. Get whatever you think looks cool.
[sarcasm/off]
I don’t want to brag, but...
... back in the day we did the easy 4s on 33s and stiff leaf springs
They are tougher and louder and more aggressive. And a lot stickier when new, but... I’m back on BFG ATs now.
My two cents -
I've run 315s for last 7-8 years. Started off BFG KM2s (x2) and now running KO2s. Didn't slow me down a bit at SCC. Ran 3's and some 4's all day long. Your experience behind the wheel will make those 3's and 4's better, not any specific tire.
Rick got us thru ultimate Adventure in a 4th gen 4Runner, on 285s with a mild lift, ATRAC and some sliders, with Erin behind the wheel (she did great, I just say that because she is a novice driver at this point and was puckered up for most of it). And I am pretty sure he drove us thru about half the 3's (easy and hard) in the park over the 2 days we were there.
Driving ability and confidence in your rig and your ability are 99% of where you go. Rick has followed guys on 37s and up for years in Digdug and makes people scratch their heads every time, but he is a hell of a driver and has a ton of confidence in his rig (and is a hell of a spotter too).
I ain't trying to talk you out of anything, but I would speculate that there is a threshold that you are trying to stay away from with this rig, and that is body damage. Being taller will help get you over stuff, but when you get into that realm damage is going to happen.
Since there are some opinions floating around, if this is to stay a dual purpose rig for now, concentrate on driving it to the max on the 35s, learn the limits and improve your own driving ability. If you insist on tinkering with it, look at stuff like ARP studs, part-time conversion, low range t-case gear, more armor, etc. Those will do more for you in the long run than going to 37's will. And then when you are satisfied with your ability, then bump up to 37s, or by then you may be looking for a buggy because you know you will destroy the 80 on the trails that you really want to do.
Shouldn't be any reason that a well built 80 on 35s couldn't do the bulk of the trails at HS, including all the 3s and a good portion of the 4s, but body damage has to be understood at that point.
Whatever you do, just keep doing. Stay in the mix and roll on man.
Driving ability and confidence in your rig and your ability are 99% of where you go. Rick has followed guys on 37s and up for years in Digdug and makes people scratch their heads every time, but he is a hell of a driver and has a ton of confidence in his rig (and is a hell of a spotter too).
I ain't trying to talk you out of anything, but I would speculate that there is a threshold that you are trying to stay away from with this rig, and that is body damage. Being taller will help get you over stuff, but when you get into that realm damage is going to happen.
Since there are some opinions floating around, if this is to stay a dual purpose rig for now, concentrate on driving it to the max on the 35s, learn the limits and improve your own driving ability. If you insist on tinkering with it, look at stuff like ARP studs, part-time conversion, low range t-case gear, more armor, etc. Those will do more for you in the long run than going to 37's will. And then when you are satisfied with your ability, then bump up to 37s, or by then you may be looking for a buggy because you know you will destroy the 80 on the trails that you really want to do.
Shouldn't be any reason that a well built 80 on 35s couldn't do the bulk of the trails at HS, including all the 3s and a good portion of the 4s, but body damage has to be understood at that point.
Whatever you do, just keep doing. Stay in the mix and roll on man.
Hold up... you’re able to do Easy 3’s with only 35s? GTFO...
[sarcasm/off]
I don’t want to brag, but...
... back in the day we did the easy 4s on 33s and stiff leaf springs
They are tougher and louder and more aggressive. And a lot stickier when new, but... I’m back on BFG ATs now.
My two cents -you are getting the maximum return on your 80 with the 35s. Anything bigger robs power and increases the risk of breakage. Anywhere they won’t take you, you don’t need to go unless you want to start putting dents in your sheetmetal.Get whatever you think looks cool.
Hahaha you're right. Especially the crossed out bits. If I'm sticking with the 35s. It's back to the mt/at debate hahahaha. I'll wait till the Memphis meeting to bring that one up.
@jynx @BMThinker I think y'all just nailed it perfectly. It's definitely the Indian not the arrow. I have been loving the Cooper tires and they don't make a 37 in the st Maxx (which is what I'm currently running). Basically I wanted to get 37s to run ultimate adventure. I basically built an entire truck for the sole purpose of riding that trail! I ended up selling it. So I want to ride UA at crawl next year. It's looking like lower T case gears and learning to drive better are more Important for sure.
Heck yeah dude. That is so awesome. It's easy to forget how capable these things are when you see all the buggys running around with coilovers, stickies, and all that awesomeness
Did you not run Ultimate Adventure Crawl 2017?
Just to reassure you, and reiterate, you can run UA in that 80 on 35s with no problem and no body damage. Just pick the right line and have a good spotter. And the reiterate part, 4th gen 4Runner, 285's, mild lift, Atrac, sliders, novice driver, Damn good spotter.... No damage.
You got it.
Oh and not to jump in your AT/MT debate, but @BMThiker runs ATs on the DigDug and still makes it look easy. Did I mention he ran Greg's Rocks on Saturday before the raffle.
Aim the arrow right and let'er fly. Don't over think it.
You got it.
Oh and not to jump in your AT/MT debate, but @BMThiker runs ATs on the DigDug and still makes it look easy. Did I mention he ran Greg's Rocks on Saturday before the raffle.
Aim the arrow right and let'er fly. Don't over think it.
Nope! couldn't find anyone to go out there with :/ theres always next time though.
Haha well looks like you just settled it. 35s it is. @FJ60Cam has the best tire selection method I have found to date.... get the ones you think look cool hah
You're good people Rick. When I get the 80 rolling, then I will really be ready to play follow the leader
You're good people Rick. When I get the 80 rolling, then I will really be ready to play follow the leader
Let me get in on some of this lol
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Smardis. You do know that park is open every weekend. You might could ride the 3 hours over there and drive up that trail 6-7 times in a day.
True that. Ill need to get out there again soon, its a hard sell to the wife when its just us going alone out there.
JTU
SILVER Star
Calling all 80 series whisperer’s.
Cold weather season is approaching on MS and the heat still doesn’t work on my 80. I have replaced the thermostat with a new OEM, flushed the entire system multiple times, burped it as best I could, replaced the fan clutch with the OEM blue hub one and still no heat. The adjustment on the heater control valve is correct. Even bypasses it and no change. Engine hovers around 188 says the scan gauge.
Any help would be appreciated. Don’t want to freeze on the winter camping trips this year.
Cold weather season is approaching on MS and the heat still doesn’t work on my 80. I have replaced the thermostat with a new OEM, flushed the entire system multiple times, burped it as best I could, replaced the fan clutch with the OEM blue hub one and still no heat. The adjustment on the heater control valve is correct. Even bypasses it and no change. Engine hovers around 188 says the scan gauge.
Any help would be appreciated. Don’t want to freeze on the winter camping trips this year.
Does the rear heater work?
The main heater core could be clogged if the engine gets up to temp & the heater valve is functional.
The main heater core could be clogged if the engine gets up to temp & the heater valve is functional.
JTU
SILVER Star
Clutchee
I'm fun sized!
Might try muratic acid, be VERY careful but might dissolve whatever is in it....
might be worth putting it directly into the core.
Again BE VERY careful using it.
might be worth putting it directly into the core.
Again BE VERY careful using it.
How to flush (post #149): Project Space Shuttle - 5.0 powered '84 FJ60 on Coilovers
If the hose gets hot at the heater contool valve, and I'm sure it does, then it has to be in the core. Check all of your heater hoses for collapse if you are not getting hot water to the control valve.
