80 Series General Tech and Classifieds

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Holy front end rebuild, Batman! I thought this was finished months ago!

Is the DS hard to turn relative to the OS? Too much preload? Bad race?
 
Its not hard to turn, it turns with the correct amount of force on the gauge but it feels like there is flat spots on the race, like a worn out race.

Ha i wish it was finished up a long time ago, for the month of June and July I was only home for about 3 weeks.
 
Anyone have a used ECM for a '94? I'm wondering if this is the next step chasing an on again off again oscillating idle. The MFA I got on MUD was definitely better than the original going bad that it replaced, but never seemed to be totally smooth at idle always. Sent the old one to Cardone via NAPA, 1 week turnaround, installed this weekend and it was immediately smooth idle through the 3 crank re-teach cycle, Ran smooth at idle even w/ AC load on - the prior problem point - until today. Tried to read codes and get nothing, maybe the stranded wire jumper I twisted up doesn't have the same bite as a paper clip. Previously [pre-MFA change] it read a 21 and 71, both potential ECM codes. Changing ECM is a sorta desperate attempt I know, but I'm not sure what other than electrons might be the come and go aspect of the idle deterioration. New plugs - that was an idle issue in threads on MAF I found and the molded intake duct is only a few months old.

CruiserParts.net has a ECM but the MFA they sent me was DOA; they were nice about returning it though.

Suggestions?
 
Did you also do new wires, cap, & rotor?

Our 450 went through a rough running spell and new plugs/wires/cap/rotor/air filter solved it.
 
Thanks. Cap & rotor were in Beno box that arrived w/ a new AC dryer; stopped short because it got to running well w/ the remanf MAF so maybe this weekend Will have to check wires date; air filter is new.
 
Seems like those would be continuous bad though, not get better / get worse - but I'm up for the suggestion
 
JTU said:
My front axle rebuild has become pretty slow the past few weeks as Ive been traveling so much but I put the driver side new bearing, races, and knuckle back together today and had the movement feels bumpy when rotating the knuckle. Everything is torqued the spec with correct shim on the top plate. The passenger side is smooth as butter but the driver side is bumpy with a noticed stop in the middle of the movement. The bearings are properly packed, I even pulled the bearing back out and repacked them with the same result when assembled in the knuckle. ideas?
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Make sure the trunion bearing races are pressed in all the way and check to make sure there aren't any burs on the top of the races where you knocked them in. If that looks good try a slightly larger shim under the trunion cap.
 
Pull a code 26 tonight - mixture control, cont rich - wiring, injector, fuel system, ECT sensor, ECM On the idea that it acts better when cooler, I may try the ECT sensor first - that and it's cheaper than a used ECM
 
Anyone have any idea of what it would take to make this happen?

IMG_2408.webp
 
Don't like the color choice but an 80 with a 60 nose looks like a hotwheels creation but I kinda like it.
 
dbbowen said:
Anyone have any idea of what it would take to make this happen?

View attachment 1510419
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Made by a company in Japan called Flex Dreams. Sell a 60 front for a 100 as well. You may have to brush up on your Japanese but from what I can tell they won't sell you a lc80 to lc60 kit because it requires extensive body work. I have a feeling a lot of the front of the truck is body filler.
 
Hahaha the paint is absolutely terrible, but an 80 with the 60 front end is pretty good looking in my opinion. Looks like they used the front edge of the 60 fenders and the part over the core support. And of course grille and lights
 
I think you're right. Weld, grind down and shape. There's some definite triangles next to the corner markers


offr0adlim0 said:
Made by a company in Japan called Flex Dreams. Sell a 60 front for a 100 as well. You may have to brush up on your Japanese but from what I can tell they won't sell you a lc80 to lc60 kit because it requires extensive body work. I have a feeling a lot of the front of the truck is body filler.
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offr0adlim0 said:
Define your version of moderately priced
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$200ish range. Not a cheap Autozone but I don't plan on running a bunch of accessories so not sure if I need a top of the line optima. A deep cycle would probably be good too so I don't have to worry about doing a battery tender, although I drive my 80 at least a few times a month.
 
AndyO78FJ40 said:
$200ish range. Not a cheap Autozone but I don't plan on running a bunch of accessories so not sure if I need a top of the line optima. A deep cycle would probably be good too so I don't have to worry about doing a battery tender, although I drive my 80 at least a few times a month.
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I've had good luck with optima batteries off eBay, cheapest cost I've found.
I used red top in buggy and yellows in trailer/camper.
Again no issues so far.
 
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