Cruiserdrew
On the way there
No. You run your house loads off your house battery.
80 Series General Tech and Classifieds
- Thread starter MEMCruiser
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
No. You run your house loads off your house battery.
Ah Ive got a lot more reading to do before I do this. The PO of my new 80 had dual batteries and removed the second tray and the wiring. The washer bottle relocation kit is still there. Was trying to get it set up before I got a fridge or anything.
Cruiserdrew has you on the right path. Your charging voltage should be somewhere around 14.5VDC +/- when the system senses a need to charge like just after starting or similar. Once fully charged most drop down to about 12VDC+/- until charging is needed again. A dash meter, assuming it is working correctly, that stays pegged is an indication of either a bad voltage regulator or of a battery that won't hold its charge. Don't think of it like a fuel gauge where full is good 
Cruiserdrew has you on the right path. Your charging voltage should be somewhere around 14.5VDC +/- when the system senses a need to charge like just after starting or similar. Once fully charged most drop down to about 12VDC+/- until charging is needed again. A dash meter, assuming it is working correctly, that stays pegged is an indication of either a bad voltage regulator or of a battery that won't hold its charge. Don't think of it like a fuel gauge where full is good
Haha this is all new territory for me. Good to know. Thanks for the valuable info @Bossman im leaning toward the dual battery "kits" for ease of use. I already ordered the volt reader posted above by cruiserdrew
Mine is a 91 but it runs about here normally:
This was when the VR failed on the alt
No bueno. New alt fixed it right up.
This was when the VR failed on the alt
No bueno. New alt fixed it right up.
I will be running a XS Power D2700 in my white 80. Specs and reliability on the battery are crazy. Was designed for high wattage car stereos so will work great for my purpose. Downside it weighs 70lbs but I'm not worried about weight in an 80. Should have it wired up in the next week or so.
My alternator is a hoped up escalade alternator pumping out 253A. From the alternator to the ANL fuse box is two runs of 4ga and from the ANL fuse box to the battery is 2/0ga. It's overkill I know but am planning on a few extra amplifiers/accessories.
Here is a pic of the battery cables. The small gauge is 4ga even though it looks tiny next to the 2/0ga which is almost as big around as a quarter. Will post up pics once I get it all installed.
My alternator is a hoped up escalade alternator pumping out 253A. From the alternator to the ANL fuse box is two runs of 4ga and from the ANL fuse box to the battery is 2/0ga. It's overkill I know but am planning on a few extra amplifiers/accessories.
Here is a pic of the battery cables. The small gauge is 4ga even though it looks tiny next to the 2/0ga which is almost as big around as a quarter. Will post up pics once I get it all installed.
The x2 is what Jerry runs in his. Don't know much about them but they seem nice as well. I went with what I used to use as an auxiliary battery in my vehicles with retarded stereos. Used and abused them with no issues for years.
Nothing too crazy. A little new school mixed with a lot of old school. Ditching the conventional radio altogether. My iPhone will be my head unit. Isimple link will go from lighting to rca, rca will plug into an AudioControl LC8i, LC8i will send power to a Crosssfire VR404 amp for the highs and a Powerbass XA-900D, the VR404 will power the PPI components in each door and the XA-900D will power a Rockford Punch HX2 12 that I just rebuilt.
Damn man that's awesome. What's going to go in the head unit slot that's going to be empty after? I'm trying to figure out how to mount a sub in the cargo area side area and still look stock. I just have a 12 in a box back there now. Door speakers are all done. I'm thinking of going with a double din screen and taking the CB radio out of the dash. Crystals 100 needs all new speakers and a new head unit. It sounds sooooo bad lol most of the stock speakers are blown
The black rectangle under the isimple link goes into the dash where the radio is. My phone will be in the dash just like a double din receiver. Odds are the speakers in Crystal's just need to be refoamed. You can get the kits from Simply Speaker and repair them yourself. Kits are way cheaper than replacements and stock speakers sound pretty good when they are working properly. Also will save you from having to bypass the stock amp.
Hiding a sub in the back of an 80 is tricky unless you go fiberglass. I'm planning on a drawer storage system and will incorporate the box into it.
Oh nice. That might save me some money. She doesn't want a crazy system or anything just a screen and speakers that work haha.
I was thinking of using one of those brackets they make for the storage area and making some kind of tiny box for a shallow mount 10 out of the sub box material and mashing it in there. The bracket is made to mount the sub open air, but that would sound like garbage haha! The drawer system is probably the smartest idea though. Get plenty of air space and can mount any size not just a 10.
I broke the little tab that holds the ABS sensor wire to the top of the knuckle when I did the knuckle job. Anybody have an extra they could drop in the mail to me? Got a rattle.
Also, found he source of the vibration that led to my axel rebuild. Broken rear rubber exhaust mount by the resonator.
Also, found he source of the vibration that led to my axel rebuild. Broken rear rubber exhaust mount by the resonator.
The parts guy says the tab I need is part of the ABS sensor. Does anyone have an old ABS sensor laying around?