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Rear finally on, but I forgot to put the pucs up front to level it... Oh well, guess I will just jack the front back up and throw them on

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#theraisinliveson @beno

Also, random Q, anyone know if the Slew coils are side specific, PS sits about an inch higher than the DS. Thinking since I have to pull the coils to add the pucs I will swap them and see where that gets me.

Thanks
 
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Ok, so I got the spacers in up front and straight back on the ground measurements are:

(From bottom of rim to fender)

FDS - 33.5" FPS - 34.75"
RDS - 34.5" RPS - 35"

So I am clearly sitting low on the front DS, but by how much is going to depend on how much it settles. I thought I swapped the coils side-to-side, but I may have mixed them up when I was moving stuff around. It will likely stay as is until I can get time to tear it all down. The front end needs a rebuild. Wheel bearings are noticeably loose, seals are clearly shot and I have hubs to install. Oh and I need to get some longer brake lines, this thing droops like a mo-fo now...
 
dbbowen said:
That's looking real good. Slee 6inch?
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Slee 4" with arms that I got from my buddy @beno when the raisin was retired. I have his spool'd and Mark's gear'd t-case that will be finding its way underneath soon too.

#theraisinliveson
 
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With spacers up front. Looks like it's time for some 37s....

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jynx said:
Also, random Q, anyone know if the Slew coils are side specific, PS sits about an inch higher than the DS. Thinking since I have to pull the coils to add the pucs I will swap them and see where that gets me.

Thanks
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Dumb question but are you sure you indexed the springs right on the lower coil pocket?
 
Yeah... Well I'm pretty sure. I spun them til they hit the stops, but I will double check tomorrow.
 
Quick question on yalls Fzj80 battery gauge in the dash. Is this gauge just kind of a glorified idiot light? My line is straight in the middle. Not in the upper 3/4 like most vehicles are. On startup its lower then finds its way back to the middle. Is this pretty common? I feel like this isnt right. I just put a group 27F X2 Power Deep cycle battery (Northstar) in it as the previous battery was bad, and was just a regular battery. The new battery has 930 Cold Crank amps but my gauge leads me to believe that my alternator might not be charging correctly or something. I put the same battery (different size) in my 4runner and my gauge was almost pegged out at the top.... what gives?

My battery I just installed saturday:

SLI27AGMDPM - X2Power Battery Deep Cycle BCI Group 27M Marine and Boat at Batteries Plus Bulbs
 
Battery gauge is not calibrated and means basically nothing. A moving idiot light like the temp gauge is an accurate description.

Lots of inexpensive voltmeters on Amazon. Or get one that lugs in the cig lighter. Then you'll know.
 
Cruiserdrew said:
Battery gauge is not calibrated and means basically nothing. A moving idiot light like the temp gauge is an accurate description.

Lots of inexpensive voltmeters on Amazon. Or get one that lugs in the cig lighter. Then you'll know.
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Oh awesome! Okay I feel a lot better about that now. I had a feeling that it was a glorified idiot light. I'm planning on going the dual battery route anyways so a volt meter is going to be a must.

Bossman said:
Is that a good thing?
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The battery I replaced in the 4Runner was super dead. I had to clutch start it to get it to the batteries plus. Lol. The 4Runner bolt meter wasn't very accurate either. It's my understanding that these Agm batteries have a little bit higher voltage than a standard car battery, or so I've been told.
 
dbbowen said:
Oh awesome! Okay I feel a lot better about that now. I had a feeling that it was a glorified idiot light. I'm planning on going the dual battery route anyways so a volt meter is going to be a must.



The battery I replaced in the 4Runner was super dead. I had to clutch start it to get it to the batteries plus. Lol. The 4Runner bolt meter wasn't very accurate either. It's my understanding that these Agm batteries have a little bit higher voltage than a standard car battery, or so I've been told.
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Voltage will be the same in a AGM battery as a conventional lead/acid unit. If your voltmeter was pegged out then you had voltage issues. Likely the voltage regulator had gone out. Lucky you didn't start frying electronics...some of these little alternators are capable of producing upwards of 20V/DC.

Voltage should always hang around 14.5v +/- with the engine running and battery in good condition.
 
tacoma2002 said:
Voltage will be the same in a AGM battery as a conventional lead/acid unit. If your voltmeter was pegged out then you had voltage issues. Likely the voltage regulator had gone out. Lucky you didn't start frying electronics...some of these little alternators are capable of producing upwards of 20V/DC.

Voltage should always hang around 14.5v +/- with the engine running and battery in good condition.
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That was the oem voltmeter gauge in the dash. Not like an actual accurate one. When I tested it with a real volt meter it was right on the money with new alternator and battery. I haven't tested the 80 series yet.

While on the same topic, is the oem alternator fine for a dual battery set up or is it recommended to go with a high output one?
 
@Cruiserdrew are you still using your Hellroaring dual battery set up that you listed in the FAQ? Would you still recommend?
 
Cruiserdrew said:
Standard alternator is fine. It makes 90 amps which is good.

Use a real DVM (digital volt meter) and test the voltage at the batteries. AGM batteries do not change your charging voltage. Your voltage regulator does that.

I like the waterproof digital display voltage meters to keep an eye on things:

Amazon.com: RioRand Waterproof Monitor 12 Volt Battery Meter 3.0-30V DC Auto Gauge Small Digital Voltmeter Blue LED: Automotive
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Holy crap! This is perfect, It even fits in a switch blank! this is exactly what I need. Can this be used with the dual batteries? tie one to each battery i guess?
 
I have one in my 80 and have a single pole double throw switch to control the read out. Switched forward, I get the main battery, backwards the house battery.

To answer your question, I removed the Hellroaring and installed a Blue Sea ACR. Surfpig is still using my old Hellroaring set up. It's a great unit, but the ACR had some particular advantages for me, so I rewired all of that 2 years ago or so.
 
Cruiserdrew said:
I have one in my 80 and have a single pole double throw switch to control the read out. Switched forward, I get the main battery, backwards the house battery.

To answer your question, I removed the Hellroaring and installed a Blue Sea ACR. Surfpig is still using my old Hellroaring set up. It's a great unit, but the ACR had some particular advantages for me, so I rewired all of that 2 years ago or so.
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Ah I need to do more research of the ACR. I'm trying to figure out which route to go, but would also like it to remain pretty simple as I'm not the greatest at wiring. The switch to control the readout of the volt meter is genius. Would you say the ACR is a good route for a novice? I basically want to be able to have a fridge run all night, maybe a few lights, and get solid radio time with the car off. Also would like to be able to jump myself off in case of emergency
 
The Blue Sea 7610 is a 3 wire hook up. One large fused hot lead from each battery and a tiny ground. Then you also have to ground the house battery. So in it's most simple form, 4 wires. I am running one of these in 3 trucks, so yes, I'm pretty impressed with how well they work.
 
Cruiserdrew said:
The Blue Sea 7610 is a 3 wire hook up. One large fused hot lead from each battery and a tiny ground. Then you also have to ground the house battery. So in it's most simple form, 4 wires. I am running one of these in 3 trucks, so yes, I'm pretty impressed with how well they work.
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Is it suggested you run your accessories off of the main battery such as the hellroaring kit?
 
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