80 Series General Tech and Classifieds

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I don't know the specifics of your NOCO G3500 but a lot of Chargers will fail to charge if the battery voltage drops too low before you try. The Zone is just going to tell you the voltage is too low to test. Give the process I described a try. I have saved a few "bad" optimal this way over the years.
 
Will do.
 
Appreciate the offer @k9crazy but unfortunately Crawl isn't looking good for my crew this year. Most of my junk isn't wheelable (momma says the GX stays clean for now), momma got a new job and has no vacation yet, half pint has school and to top it all, I just had a wastewater treatment plant project hit high gear unexpectedly... Life gets in the way sometimes. Pretty bummed about it, but will just make me push harder to make sure we make it next year. :(
 
So I tried the parallel charge setup. Hooked the battery from the farm truck up and got it going and then hooked up old yeller. Left it overnight. Unhooked everything this morning and checked voltage across the terminals, still only showing 5V +/- I went ahead an hauled it in to the Zone guy and he put his little dohickey on it and it showed 5.46V and 0% charge. He said, uh has this been on a vehicle, cause if it has then the alternator is bad.... I said, no, can you just sell me the one on the shelf behind you.

So I can say I gave it a go and I can officially say that I had to put old yeller down, but I got a new yeller that I will slap in there tonight and see if I can't get that thing out of the shed and ready for a little suspension work over the next week or so. Gonna channel a little raisin action out here on "80" Acres @beno
 
Hey, I appreciate the tip. I think the hap-hazard and sporadic staring and charging was just too much. Learned the value of a good charger and using it on rigs that see very little use. I will keep them topped off moving forward. Anyway, now I can get on with the good stuff.
 
Still looking for one factory LX450 wheel in good shape. I'll be at the crawl so pickup/mudship should be convenient.
 
New Battery in, pulled out from under the lean-to.

First off she needs a damn bath. First one in a few years....
1008161239_HDR.webp


Cleaned up good.

1008161304_HDR.webp


And now digging some parts out of the barn.

1008161357_HDR.webp


#theraisinliveson
 
Made a spot and started working on the front this afternoon after church.

Found the wheel bearings to be rather loose I fear, had a good bit of play in both tires. Good thing I got 3 @beno boxes full of front end parts laying around, but that will be another day.

Dang these things are all beef! Heavy as :censor:

1009161546_HDR-1.webp


Started on the passenger side. Odd, but I've used the original bottle Jack from the 40 more lately then my floorjack.

1009161616_HDR-1.webp


I had planned to do one side at a time, but the amount rotation needed to bolt these arms meant both sides needed to be dropped. Anyway, I got the DS arm in and got everything tightened up.

Beautiful thing.
1009161802_HDR-1.webp


The SLEE coils are in along with the arms.

1009161802b_HDR-1.webp


That was where I called it today. I went ahead and put the tires back on and set it back down on all 4's until the next installment.

I didn't get a before measurement, but I figure it picked up a good 3" at least maybe more over the old saggy OME coils.

1009161834_HDR-1.webp


I still have to get the panhard and shocks bolted up. The parts list gained a few items, mainly I need a longer soft line from the frame to axle and I am going to see if there are any hard lines for the front axle still in the system available for order. Next order will be rebuilding the knuckles and installing the golden hubs. Then onto the rear suspension and t-case swap. I got the fancy front driveshaft, but I will have to test fit and have it adjusted as needed since it's going into a 91.

Overall pleased, but found lots of TLC items that will need addressing over the next few months to get it back up to snuff. Just what happens after 2-3 years of borderline neglect, but that should all be behind me now.

#theraisinliveson
 
If I'm planning to bolt an h42 up to a 3FE, do I need a 2F or 3F clutch and flywheel? @Bossman you know how yours is put together?

Also, if I read right all the F series bell housings are similar, but the 3F clocks the trans down for better driveline angle and I'm guessing it puts the shifter in the right spot in the floor.

Starting to actively look for and acquire parts to put an h42 and split case in the brown 92 we've got (aka shorty) and trying to get my list together. I've read a couple threads thru, but they don't really specify what clutch, just that you need a clutch. Pretty sure I need a 2F flywheel, but not 100% sure on that either. @wct49 if @wardharris carrys the proper flywheel and clutch assembly, you will be getting a call at some point when I figure out what I'm gonna need.

Also, has anyone tried the new TT brake parts. It needs a brake job too and I'm thinking of trying some of their fancy rotors and pads out on it too.
 
Last edited:
@jynx my 62 has the 3fe, so I would think it would be exactly the same.

I went on rock auto and ordered an Aisin clutch kit for an '87 Land cruiser as well as clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder. For the clutch line from master to slave, I used the JToutfitters soft line for an fj60. Also use the 3f BH like you mentioned. The flywheel will be from a 2f fj60 (keep your eye out in the Part Out section of classifieds) and make sure you get the bolts with the flywheel too. Get the flywheel resurfaced while you're at it too.

Not sure how the clutch pedal bucket mounts in an 80, but that was the biggest pain in my swap.
 
Baka beat me to it. 3F bell housing 2F clutch parts. We already talked about the clutch pedal bits. Shifter will be too far forward but it's an easy job to modify the stick to bring it to where you want it. Plan on replacing your motor mounts and transmission mount while you are there. That rubber is 25 years old after all.
 
If I'm planning to bolt an h42 up to a 3FE, do I need a 2F or 3F clutch and flywheel? @Bossman you know how yours is put together?
Pretty sure I need a 2F flywheel, but not 100% sure on that either. @wct49 if @wardharris carrys the proper flywheel and clutch assembly, you will be getting a call at some point when I figure out what I'm gonna need.

Also, has anyone tried the new TT brake parts. It needs a brake job too and I'm thinking of trying some of their fancy rotors and pads out on it too.
Between Chris and Georg, I am sure we can figger it out and get what you need for clutch and brake bits. :)
 
No brake bits needed but he will need a clutch pedal bucket from a non-us cruiser. I got one as a box full of parts out of Canada and one assembled used from down under. Hit a brick wall trying to order parts for this here in the US.
 
Thanks @Bama4door and @Bossman

Working on clutch bucket assembly currently. I know that will be the problem child of it all. Gonna keep eye out for bell housing. Can a flywheel be had new? And I would normally go oe on the clutch, but hearing good things about the TT kits. Master, slave, lines etc. I will try to source from Onur new if possible. Need to make a list and start checking off boxes.

@wardharris was talking about my comment on the new TT line of rotors and pads. I'm going to put fzj calipers on the front when I rebuild the knuckles and thinking about trying out their new bits to round it out. I mean I already got a TT knuckle kit from @beno, may as well finish it out.

And @wngrog sad thing is I got a 28x40 barn less than 100 yds away, but it's still full of crap from the move. Cocrete apron and drive will be going in this spring when the bank account recovers from the house build. But I gotta get that barn cleaned out and wired or I may get my ass frost bit this winter...
 
Back
Top Bottom