80 Series General Tech and Classifieds

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wngrog said:
I'm sure TG will get drug through the dirt for not accepting another companies warranty but IMO that would be dumb business.
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I'm sure they'll get drug through the dirt no matter what they do, as they can do no right in the eyes of many... but they did put out a press release when they acquired Longfield stating that TG would honor all LF warranties.
 
I have not heard back from Trail Gear yet so I called RCV. RCV will rebuild my Longs for $95 or sell me the the parts to do it myself for … $95. each. I believe Bobby would have done it for $75. But that was some time ago.
RCV's star is made of 300M material. I asked if they make a 300M Birfield… no dice.. material is too hard to form??

They also can make 300M axle shafts as well for about $100 more than 4340 shafts each.

RCV said that they are not sure what Trail Gear will make their 80 series "long fields" out of .

Rob and I got to talking about how the aussies gun drilled the stub shaft and put a zerk fitting on the end of the stub shaft.. How cool would it be to be able to grease the Birf by just removing the dust cap and pumping it full of grease without pulling apart the whole knuckle!

So i mentioned this to RCV. They said they would mention it to their engineers. They already do this on their RCVs for Dana 30 and 44s. the 60 RCV has a zerk on the bell it self since the boot is a pain to get on and off and the 60 housing is open knuckle. I told them it would be a great way to differentiate their Birfields from others.

RCV may also donate a raffle prize to the Southern Cruiser Crawl!
 
Oh and thanks Rob (OffroadLimo) for doing my knuckle rebuild. Great work as always. that knuckle never looked so good!
 
lenross1 said:
Rob and I got to talking about how the aussies gun drilled the stub shaft and put a zerk fitting on the end of the stub shaft.. How cool would it be to be able to grease the Birf by just removing the dust cap and pumping it full of grease without pulling apart the whole knuckle!
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There is an easy, though les direct way to grease the knuckle this way. I've been doing it for years. Just pull the little pipe plug from the knuckle, drill through the center of it and tap for a grease fitting. You can then grease the whole knuckle including the upper and lower trunion bearings and the birf without removing a thing.

BTW, $95 is more than fair in my opinion. Good on RCV for offering. Also, good work on pimpin' the Crawl!
 
Bossman said:
There is an easy, though les direct way to grease the knuckle this way. I've been doing it for years. Just pull the little pipe plug from the knuckle, drill through the center of it and tap for a grease fitting. You can then grease the whole knuckle including the upper and lower trunion bearings and the birf without removing a thing.

BTW, $95 is more than fair in my opinion. Good on RCV for offering. Also, good work on pimpin' the Crawl!
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You can effectively fill the knuckle but as far as getting grease in the birfield is questionable.
 
Thanks to Rob for help on troubleshooting the CDL issues I'm having. I tried the hammer tapping on the motor while a friend clicked on-off CDL switch. No dice. Guess I'll tilt the drivetrain down a little this weekend and see if I can get the motor out. Getting closer!

I did take the Cruizah for a spin on some trails around my house. Mostly mud, but it was still fun.

:insert "I hate MUD" joke here:
 
After much frustration with this CDL, I took the easy way out - manually locked it in and then reinstalled motor to keep it locked in. I have locking hubs, so it's aaaaalllllllmmmmmmoooooosssssttttt 2wd.

I decided to put as much of this chaos back to factory as I could. I reconnected the sensor that had been out on a toggle switch. I double-checked that the 7-pin mod had been done, which it had. The CDL switch was not the culprit, as I tried the emergency flasher switch and that didn't help. I can hear the relays clicking in the driver kick panel, but I know that power isn't going to the motor - I used a voltmeter at the end of the harness while my dad cycled the CDL switch. Never did I see power at the terminals that connect to the motor, though I did see constant voltage on different pins.

I was stumped, so I took the easy way out. And for me, that's probably good enough!

Again, thanks to Rob and Daryl in particular, and all of y'all that offered advice.
 
Anyone have a set of factory 80 wheels they want to part with? I have a set of painted ones, but I'm looking for another set of factory finish (shank-style preferred, but I'd consider some acorns...)

Thx.
 
Jordan7118 said:
I have a set of (4) acorn alloys, but they have been loved by rocks.

My vote for a DD would be Daryl's 40th rims. They're reaaaaallll niiiiiiiccccceeeee : > )
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Thanks Jordan. Bossman and I talked last night, and we worked out a price and a "MUD(bug)SHIP arrangement.....
 
geologic said:
No used 80 suspensions bumpers sliders etc out there in MS for sale or trade? Maybe I should get dnp to front for me!
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What all are you looking for? For instance, I have a non-winch ARB on the front of my white 80 I might be willing to part with........
 
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