Bodean
Hot Damn
Huh? You mean the Razorback Ramble?
80 Series General Tech and Classifieds
- Thread starter MEMCruiser
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
There are two different lug but styles for that wheel. The wheel looks the same. There is a conical and a shank style lug nut. Post a pic if one of your lug nuts removed from the truck and we will have a better idea of what you need.
Nope, two styles
As I mentioned before, I'm having issues with my CDL. Rob offered some advice, which I have started to follow. I tore into the OP wiring, which turned out to be a toggle switch inline with the diff lock engagement sensor. So, that basically fools the computer and allows the e-lockers to engage in high?
I don't know that I mentioned this, but I do have a Center Diff Lock button on the dash. It currently does nothing, so that's what I will explore next. I would prefer to make that button work versus using the emergency flasher button.
In summary, I can control the sensor that detects when the CDL is locked, and now I'm off to figure out how to control the diff lock motor. Can't be that hard, right?
EDIT: Sounds like it may be more difficult than that. Motor burned up? 7-pin mod is to engage CDL in high range, and CDL button addition is to disengage CDL in low-range. My problem is that the CDL doesn't engage, so I'm wondering if the motor is bad. Ugh...
http://www.olympiafj60.net/80-series-cdl-switch-and-pin-7-mod.html
I don't know that I mentioned this, but I do have a Center Diff Lock button on the dash. It currently does nothing, so that's what I will explore next. I would prefer to make that button work versus using the emergency flasher button.
In summary, I can control the sensor that detects when the CDL is locked, and now I'm off to figure out how to control the diff lock motor. Can't be that hard, right?
EDIT: Sounds like it may be more difficult than that. Motor burned up? 7-pin mod is to engage CDL in high range, and CDL button addition is to disengage CDL in low-range. My problem is that the CDL doesn't engage, so I'm wondering if the motor is bad. Ugh...
http://www.olympiafj60.net/80-series-cdl-switch-and-pin-7-mod.html
Last edited:
I think the 7 pin and CDL button logic is opposite of what you've got above...7 pin is used to unlock on low and CDL switch by itself enables you to lock the center diff in high. If I've misunderstood that, then I apologize for the unnecessary confusion.
With regards to the PO's in line switch hack - since elocker operation is based on the the center diff being locked, it could be that they too were having trouble with the center diff not locking and added this hack to get the lockers to work period...not to just be able to engage them in high.
What happens when you disconnect the CDL switch altogether? It should lock when you shift into low range with no switch connected.
With regards to the PO's in line switch hack - since elocker operation is based on the the center diff being locked, it could be that they too were having trouble with the center diff not locking and added this hack to get the lockers to work period...not to just be able to engage them in high.
What happens when you disconnect the CDL switch altogether? It should lock when you shift into low range with no switch connected.
Are the ABS and CDL lights coming on when the CDL button is pressed? If not the CDL motor is not engaging or if you hear the motor moving the CDL position switch is not working. Cycle CDL button while tapping the motor on top of the transfer case. There is a position sensor on top of the case that monitors the CDL. If the sensor does not see the CDL locking it will not let you use the diff locks.
I think your middle paragraph nailed the reason for the position sensor hack. As such, I should suspect the motor wasn't working.
ABS light is on constantly because the front Birfs don't have tone rings and I have disconnected all the ABS sensors, wiring, and bracketry from the front axle. I can make the CDL light activate by toggling the PO hack-job switch that completes the circuit for the position sensor. As JT said, the lockers will work because I can override that position sensor with the PO hack switch.
Man, it was a huge help to look at the transfer case out of the truck and figure out exactly what did what. And thanks for the offer to rob parts for diagnostic purposes! Not sure if it is possible to make a more complicated transfer case???? Makes a D300 adapter development look real good right about meow...
Here is what I THINK I should do:
- reconnect the position sensor to where it activates when the CDL locks and unlocks
- cycle CDL switch a million times with someone else to see if motor is working
If motor isn't working, should I just pull diff in transfer case and weld it up? I have mini- truck lockouts on this thing, so I can unlock hubs for the very rare occasion I hit the highway. Thoughts?
Again, thank you all so much for the help!
Well after starting my front axle rebuild and Rob in the process of finishing it he noticed the long birfield being really stiff. The passenger side was clicking as well.
We will see if Trail Gear will Bobby longfield 's business ethics.
He said he would rebuild then for $75 . We will see if that is even an option. If not RCV is going to get a call.
We will see if Trail Gear will Bobby longfield 's business ethics.
He said he would rebuild then for $75 . We will see if that is even an option. If not RCV is going to get a call.
Lenny, keep me posted on what you find out. I'm floating the same boat.
Bobby would have reconditioned them for about $75 or so. They don't need to be replaced.
Trailgear is going to have 80 birfs at some point, though. They are under "redesign" and will be available again some time.
Could be so but I'm going to try to stay on the high road and just deal with the facts as I can see them.
Also, I read last night that RCV may be honoring the old Longfield warranty claims. I would explore that route ASAP if I had a set of Longs that were questionable. RCV looks like a stand up kinda operation from all I have seen. I'm kinda glad things went the way they did for me and I ended up with two sets of RCV's for our 80's
Interesting... When I spoke with Kraig of RCV about my Longs, he deferred me to Trail-Gear for any warranty questions.
