80 Series Crank No Start

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60 toy ota said:
Going back to your first post. Had you actually gotten around to the tune up? I'm guessing no but trying to eliminate variables.
Consistently running rough for a month then immediate crank no start? Seems like something a failing electrical connection would act like, but you've tested this area pretty thoroughly.
I re read the thread and don't see that you verified compression. Update us there?
Another thing that could explain this is a disintegrating cat. Could be that your exhaust has been getting clogged, then finally the whole thing fell apart and you now can't breathe. Any hissing after the engine stops turning? Can you pull an 02 or crack a union open and try to start?
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Hi, Yes. I did plugs, ht leads cap and rotor. plenty of compression, fuel now. I have an extra 3FE with 60K on the clock along with cats off same engine. Confirmed healthy 1" spark with screwdriver to ground on each lead, so not the pick up coil. going to recheck everything tomorrow. No hissing.
 
So you have spark and you're getting fuel to the rail.
Are the injectors firing?

All 6 injectors get an ignition hot +12 on pin 2 (blk/grn) and are pulsed to ground on pin 1 by the ECU in 2 groups of 3.
Refer to the Toyota EWD.
 
jonheld said:
So you have spark and you're getting fuel to the rail.
Are the injectors firing?

All 6 injectors get an ignition hot +12 on pin 2 (blk/grn) and are pulsed to ground on pin 1 by the ECU in 2 groups of 3.
Refer to the Toyota EWD.
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Rechecked coil (pulled out because was awkward angle) suspect/erratic readings on primary coil feeding dizzy. Starts at .4 then drops to .3, .2. Replacing. Will check ecu pulse of of injectors next.

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If the distributor pick up coils or the ignition coil or the igniter were an issue, there would be no/weak spark.
You would also be getting error codes (12, 13, or 14). You said you were getting good strong spark and no codes. Move on.

Some meters can be inaccurate when reading low resistances.
It helps if the meter has a "zero" function that allows you to zero out the resistance of the test leads you're using.

Again, you said you have spark and fuel to the rail.
 
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jonheld said:
If the distributor pick up coils or the ignition coil or the igniter were an issue, there would be no/weak spark.
You would also be getting error codes (12, 13, or 14). You said you were getting good strong spark and no codes. Move on.

Some meters can be inaccurate when reading low resistances.
It helps if the meter has a "zero" function that allows you to zero out the resistance of the test leads you're using.

Again, you said you have spark and fuel to the rail.
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Yessir. Ecu injector pulse/chasing now.
 
smallv8 said:
Unfortunately, no. Have another set of mechanics hands coming tomorrow. Will keep everyone updated. Have another full new oe cat-back in an extra 60 series, (storage truck) in the chamber.

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Checking timing tomorrow and having a buddy who does programming/simulations for gm ev division new cars, popping by in am EST. He just got back from gm hq in Michigan.
 
smallv8 said:
Checking timing tomorrow and having a buddy who does programming/simulations for gm ev division new cars, popping by in am EST. He just got back from gm hq in Michigan.
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Followed @jonheld 3FE attachment line by line for 3FE. Specs were a little off FSM in 92 so had to thumb through FSM to confirm Dizzy is w/in spec.

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smallv8 said:
Followed @jonheld 3FE attachment line by line for 3FE. Specs were a little off FSM in 92 so had to thumb through FSM to confirm Dizzy is w/in spec.
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I'll say it louder for those in the back:
"If the distributor pick up coils or the ignition coil or the igniter were an issue, there would be no/weak spark.
You would also be getting error codes (12, 13, or 14). You said you were getting good strong spark and no codes. Move on."

Spark is developed from the distributor pick up coils which are fed to the ECU and are retimed according to sensor inputs.
The ECU then feeds pulses to the igniter.
The igniter feeds the primary of the ignition coil.
The ignition coil secondary feeds the distributor rotor.

Everything mentioned above MUST BE WORKING to develop spark. MOVE ON.

At this point you have spark, fuel and compression. This engine should run.
********At any point did you remove the distributor********

I'd lay odds that your ignition timing is 180 out.
 
jonheld said:
I'll say it louder for those in the back:
"If the distributor pick up coils or the ignition coil or the igniter were an issue, there would be no/weak spark.
You would also be getting error codes (12, 13, or 14). You said you were getting good strong spark and no codes. Move on."

Spark is developed from the distributor pick up coils which are fed to the ECU and are retimed according to sensor inputs.
The ECU then feeds pulses to the igniter.
The igniter feeds the primary of the ignition coil.
The ignition coil secondary feeds the distributor rotor.

Everything mentioned above MUST BE WORKING to develop spark. MOVE ON.

At this point you have spark, fuel and compression. This engine should run.
********At any point did you remove the distributor********

I'd lay odds that your ignition timing is 180 out.
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Ive never removed distributor, not sure about original owner? Timing 180 out was brought up in conversation.
 
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