79 series full time 4wd conversion (1 Viewer)

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May 3, 2017
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Location
Australia
Over the last number of weeks I have been gathering information to convert my fzj79 from part time 4wd to full time 4wd, I have good reason to do this conversion as I travel a lot of dirt roads in between stretches of bitumen and also on and off the road driving around the farm.

I could find 0 information about this exact conversion let alone anything close to it but almost what seems like hundreds of part time conversions on 80s.

This is my first post and first thred here on this forum as after the lack of information I thought someone, somewhere might find this useful.

For this conversion I have chose to use 80 series stuff as it's readily available 2nd hand, I do understand the 105 series has a lot of similarities

To start off with I did a lot of backwards research on the part time conversions on the 80 series then went from there, then I confirmed what manual transmission I had (h151), anyone feel free to correct me at anytime if my info is incorrect, most transmissions are the same with the exception of a few particular diesel ones which doesn't concern me for this conversion, knowing that I made sure that my model transmission was cross interchangeable with 80 series as it seemed it was I now knew that a full time transfer would fit, (most people know this but for those who don't from what I could find all transfers are the same, from petrol to diesel from auto to manual, in the 80 series that is anyway).

From here knowing that the conversion was possible I looked more into the transfer itself, how it worked, what I wanted it to do and how to make it do that. There are 2 full time transfers, an early one and a later one, both technically the same except the early (up to 92) has an open type center diff and the later (93-97) uses a viscous coupler, a type of limited slip center diff (also a fraction longer box). I decided to go with a later type one as a few threads I read mention how versatile they are, rarely even need to activate the center diff on most occasions without creating driveline bind, I didn't find much about the viscous coupler failing except one topic where a careless owner ran different size tyres front and back for awhile, in which case the new owner was able to remove the viscous coupler which is my fail-safe along with being able to still convert the new box to part time if it causes dramas as full time and still have push button 4wd for all my efforts so it's win win as far as I'm concerned.

Ok what I want the new full time transfer to do in the 79, I want to be able to shift between high and low range all the time on regular full time mode and press center diff lock button at anytime without leaving my seat for full 4wd capabilities, following a bit of research regarding the center diff lock and the shifting positions in an 80 series, most 80s are regular high range full time mode and only activate the center diff when shifted to low range, (meaning you can't use low range if you say wanted to back your boat into the shed on a concrete driveway) for 80 series owners this is easily overcome with a few simple mods to the wiring and an addition of a cdl switch to work exactly how I want, so if it works on an 80 it can for me too with the exception that 80s use an ecu to control how long and which way the cdl motor runs for, luckily then I came across a (simplified) wiring diagram from a bloke that was doing a rewire? And didn't use or have the ecu (diagram below)



I am yet to test this diagram of course, where it says illuminated light I will use the green 4wd light on the dash to know when it's on and for the 2 way dash switch I will use a look alike Aftermarket rectangular cdl switch ($20 on ebay in your choice of colour) mounted into one of the empty spaces on the dash somewhere but the wiring will also include the switch to linked to the park light circuit to illuminate the switch at night time. The rest of the wiring is just relays and stuff linking into the factory switches and stuff on the transfer, I will play with this all on the ground BEFORE I put everything in and realise it doesn't work.

That's the mounting and the electrics sorted the only other things left is the tail shaft, which I'm yet to measure to find out the overall length difference between my transfer and the full-time, I'm imagining I will need a custom sized shaft but will update this section when I find out, if I do need a shorter or longer shaft (most likely shorter) I will buy a second hand shaft to cut down that way I'm not without my Ute while I get all the components together.

The only other thing I can think of that I need to sort out for this conversion is the shifter itself, which there is yet again 0 information on the net about, I compared a lot of photos and looked at my linkages from underneath etc, from what I can tell before I get my hands on the full-time box and start mucking around with it, I will need to use the shifter and linkage off my original box as the lever sits way forward and off to the side compared to the 80, I'm hoping the linkage off mine (again judging by pictures) is just a longer version of the 80 one and will be as simple as connecting it to the corresponding part on the full-time box, if not I will grab the 80 series one aswell and my grinder and welder says it will fit.

I have attached photos of my shifter from underneath and one from a manual 80 so those who care can have a look.

80 series full time manual


79 series part time manual transmission end


Transfer connection end


All I'm hoping I need is just the 80 series knob for the shifting positions, but as I said I will update this as I get more into it.

Oh almost forgot as far as the hubs go, short term I will just keep them locked, long term I will probably fit the constant 80 series or 105 series flange hub.

If anyone thinks I have left anything out or thinks I'm just purely insane please let me know.
 
interesting doing the "other" thing :) I converted my 80 series full time to part time since I didn't want all that extra mass turning all the time and only needed 4x4 when wheeling in the summer. We have long winters and roads can be snow/ice covered for extended periods of time so I did give this some considerations, but at the end decided locked hubs and part time would suite me just fine. The 80 series transfer is taller than what you now have so don't know if you have taken that into consideration, so either it will have to hang down lower or you will have to mod the underside of the floor or build a new tunnel. This is in my project that is still in the garage, not in the HJ-75.
 
Thanks I hadn't thought of that. The floor is quite high in the 79 but if need be depending on how much room I need I can always do a minor cab lift
 
Just leave it in 4wd
 
Picked up the full-time transfer the other day and have sat it down in my workshop and did a test run with the wiring, I ended up using a factory transmission relay and followed the factory wiring diagram minus the L4 switch and the neutral position switch, also note that my cdl engagement switch is a single throw switch and not a double like the factory one, this is easily fixed with the addition of a two way relay, one with a normally open and a normally closed side, that way while the switch is in the "off" position the relay sends power to the off side of the transmission relay until you press the switch and reverse it (the whole lot takes a bit to get your head around trust me)

Also note that for my test (pictured) I used a second switch but only for the light inside it to act as my cdl "dash light" to let me know when it was engaged.

 
You might want to seriously consider a double cardan u-joint at the front drive flange of the xfer case. Where I live the roads are snow and ice for half the year and the front hubs are locked for that time. I shift in and out of 4WD as required. Significant front axle noise and vibration in 4WD disappeared completely when I replaced the OEM front shaft with a DC one. Likely one of the best mods I did to my truck. I previously owned Ford and GMC FT4WD trucks and they all had DC front shafts.
 
You might want to seriously consider a double cardan u-joint at the front drive flange of the xfer case. Where I live the roads are snow and ice for half the year and the front hubs are locked for that time. I shift in and out of 4WD as required. Significant front axle noise and vibration in 4WD disappeared completely when I replaced the OEM front shaft with a DC one. Likely one of the best mods I did to my truck. I previously owned Ford and GMC FT4WD trucks and they all had DC front shafts.

That's an excellent suggestion, I will just get it all working first then look into it lol.

Speaking of drive shafts I had a rough measurement of my existing box and the full-time box today and as anyone could have guessed the front output is exactly the same and the rear output on the full-time is considerably longer (17cms), cutting down another rear shaft to fit won't be an issue but one thing I didn't forsee is the fuel tank position, I will have to do some more precise measurements but I think it will fit otherwise I may have to do a mild body lift or relocate the fuel tank to fit the extra length of the transfer in, also note that I checked the gap between the transfer and the cab floor, heaps of room, and the gap around the box to the chassis brace that goes above and around where the existing box finishes, should have plenty of room on those fronts.
 
Also want to add a few diagrams that I used to work out how to wire the factory transmission relay, the first one is a little blury but you get the idea, it shows the factory cdl switch where most diagrams don't, the second diagram is that of a 100 series it also shows a factory cdl switch, few minor differences but it's virtually the same I just used both to cross reference how it worked





And lastly for anyone real keen hear is a link to a page I found really useful that explains more how exactly the transmission relay does its thing and which wires do what

Troubleshooting the Toyota FJ80 Land Cruiser Center Diff Lock (CDL) - Pacific Northwest Backroad Adventures
 
Not an option
I'm not following why leaving it in 4wd isn't an option, or why full time 4wd would be necessary. I feel like it's a lot of work and money when you are potentially using the wrong tool for the job (i.e. Why not just get a truck that suits your needs)
 
Not much progress yet but my cdl switch arrived the other day as pictured below, this should work exactly like the factory 80 switch but at a fraction of the cost

where'd you get this switch, also will it catch fire?
 
I'm not following why leaving it in 4wd isn't an option, or why full time 4wd would be necessary. I feel like it's a lot of work and money when you are potentially using the wrong tool for the job (i.e. Why not just get a truck that suits your needs)

I user to have a fairly new hilux and believe me it was great, just wack the 4x4 leaver in and keep driving, but I sold it for this as the hilux wasn't heavy enough for my sort of work, I carry tools/parts to service machinery on farm and also needed the towing capacity.

I can't just leave it in 4x4 as the roads I travel are extremely windy mountain roads, I would very very quickly wind the box up to much and it was s*** itself in no time at all
 
Second this question. Forgive my ignorance, Is your 79 24v?

No it's 12V and as my first post states I sourced my switch off of eBay, there are various ones available in different colours and different countries for about $20 delivered, and lol no it won't catch fire the only purpose the switch serves is as a trigger to switch over the relay which takes the main 30Amp power source the motor needs
 
Also as far as cost goes it I have so far only spent a bit under $200 on parts including the transfer, only need to source a rear tailshaft and constant front hubs then the rest of the cost it labour
 
Started doing a pre wire, just enough room for the transmission relay and the switch-over relay behind there, I had a different spot picked out but my switch didn't fit the recess.

 
Did it go well the upgrading i m jas about to start mine but i will be fitting a 100 series complete gearbox and transfer on the same model as yours
 
Did it go well the upgrading i m jas about to start mine but i will be fitting a 100 series complete gearbox and transfer on the same model as yours

Yes I forgot to finish this thread, all went well with the install but then shortly after I removed it all to put it back to part time because I had to sell it to buy another dual cab ironically for my new daughter, have kept the gear to put into my fj45 one day
 

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