Build 79 FJ45 Troopy Build “Olive”

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Get the hubs if you are in 2 wheel drive most of the time. Currently your flanges are spinning the axle shafts, the front differential, and the front drive shaft that goes to the transfer case. When you add the hubs and they are unlocked only the outer hub is spinning. I have them on all our 4 wheel drive vehicles from ford f250s in our fleet to all our Land Cruisers except the newer all wheel drive ones but I’ve even debated changing out ‘01 to the part time kit.
 
I’m told that with a header and 2.5” exhaust it really helps the 2F breathe. What does smog have to do with header vs manifold?

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If you have no smog, less restrictions that bog the power of the 2F. I had a 1976 FJ40 with a Downey header and flowmaster, I currently have a 1980 FJ45 Saudi spec with no smog, brand new factory manifold (yes, you can till buy one) and factory exhaust. Both seem to have the same power.
 
The @Fe3 header is a no-holds-barred best in class product, stainless and provably flows better than the OEM exhaust. That said, how much time do you spend above, say, 3500 rpm?

Butt dyno results aren’t reliable. We all “feel” what we want to find in that situation.

Likely the largest effects from a “desmog” are eliminating the “air pump” and EGR.

The first just takes a few HP to inject fresh air into your 2F’s hot exhaust to burn off unburned hydrocarbons, reducing smog.

The EGR valve reduces NOx by sending some exhaust back into your 2F’s intake. This acts to dilute the air-fuel mix (displacing air used for combustion) with the result that combustion temperatures are reduced and less NOx is formed. This does reduce power, because less fuel is burned.

I can support your build with a discount if you go with the header.
 
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The @Fe3 header is a no-holds-barred best in class product, stainless and provably flows better than the OEM exhaust. That said, how much time do you spend above, say, 3500 rpm?

Butt dyno results aren’t reliable. Well all “feel” what we want to find in that situation.

Likely the largest effects from a “desmog” are eliminating the “air pump” and EGR.

The first just takes a few HP to inject fresh air into your 2F’s hot exhaust to burn off unburned hydrocarbons, reducing smog.

The EGR valve reduces NOx by sending some exhaust back into your 2F’s intake. This acts to dilute the air-fuel mix (displacing air used for combustion) with the result that combustion temperatures are reduced and less NOx is formed. This does reduce power, because less fuel is burned.

I can support your build with a discount if you go with the header.
I don’t have any of that stuff on mine, it still has an oil bath air filter of all things. I’ll reach out when I’m ready to pull the trigger.

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I have them on all our 4 wheel drive vehicles from ford f250s in our fleet to all our Land Cruisers except the newer all wheel drive ones but I’ve even debated changing out ‘01 to the part time kit.
I wouldn’t.

I own > 10 land cruisers of various vintage from a 1963 FJ40 to a couple other 40s, 2 fj45lvs, several FJ55s (one on an 80 frame/axles with a mostly 80-series drivetrain), two 62s (one on an 80 frame and axles), a 1HD-FTE/5-speed swapped 97 LX450, and a 2024 250.

(And a 4wd F-350 that is P/T from the factory).

I put a P/T case and hubs in the built 55 and lx450, and left the rest as Mr. Toyota sold them in terms of F/T vs. P/T, (including the kid’s built 1997 fzj80).

Part of this was convenience: Wife and son don’t have to think about getting out to lock the hubs, especially in the snow or mud. Part of it is that, other than aesthetics, it doesn’t make any difference in fuel milage. Maybe on a 100% stock truck things would be different, but of the set, only one of the 62s and the 250 are stock.

P.S. I have the Scheelmann Vario F Klimas in the built 55 on 80 frame, the wife’s 62 on 80 frame, and our son’s 97 fzj80. They’re fantastic. Another of the 55s and the lx450 have Vario F Scheelmann seats (heated but not Klima, purchased before the Klima came to market).

They’re fantastic.

P.S.2. Beautiful truck!!

Agree on the city racer wheels. I run a set on one of the 55s, they’re quite nice.

Suggestion: get some of the correct hose clamps and replace the worm drive clamps.
 
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do I really want part time hubs? or keep my full time drive flanges? I don’t think I want to get out to lock the part time kit…

IDK. I think it looks better, but the “new” Aisin hubs are “Chinesium” according to some.

Agree that getting out once you’re in the suck, … sucks. Some people run with the hubs locked the whole winter for this reason.

I suggest new OEM brake hoses. You’ll have the calipers off, and are going to bled the brakes anyway.
 
Definitely keep us posted on your disc brake adventure, I’m looking to do the same with my 45, though strongly considering the more modern setup from front range Offroad. Do you have the large or small pattern knuckles?

Also how are you liking the oem power steering setup? I have a 60 series swap on my 40 and it’s fantastic, but interested in the oem setup for my new 45.
 
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