EWheeler
GOLD Star
FYI, accelerator pump/plunger is inside of the carb.....it gives a shot of fuel into the carb when you depress the accelerator pedal.
'69 FJ40 won't start
- Thread starter CBFJ
- Start date
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John McVicker
SILVER Star
Your ‘mentor’ is giving you good advice…AND did you did you file the points as was suggested?
- Thread starter
- #23
John McVicker
SILVER Star
^^[
If I was assisting someone with your issues…and Mark suggested a solution…I would put it at the top of my ‘list’.
If I was assisting someone with your issues…and Mark suggested a solution…I would put it at the top of my ‘list’.
- Thread starter
- #25
this grasshopper is learning...slowly...
- Thread starter
- #26
OK- just visited the rig at the auto shop. Some new information has come to light:
-removed fuel line to carb, cranked. Fuel in the mason jar looks good. Ruling out dirty tank, pump or filter issues.
-car starts a little slow with choke, but idles pretty damn well, even without choke! When I drive it, it lugs like crazy, dies at stops. Slow to restart, but will continue like that. So...idles fine but dies when moving.
-mechanic ruled out intake manifold leak, thought it looked tight. But didn't do a real exam.
The mechanic had put a new cap and rotor on, along with new plugs (x2) and wires. He said the points are therefore good. He also said they checked out the extra jets in the carb and they are huge, so didn't change the jets.
This is making him think the carb is the issue- needs rebuilding or something else. Again, this is a 6-month old City Racer- is it possible it's in need of rebuilding?
I took video; if someone can tell me how to post I will.
-removed fuel line to carb, cranked. Fuel in the mason jar looks good. Ruling out dirty tank, pump or filter issues.
-car starts a little slow with choke, but idles pretty damn well, even without choke! When I drive it, it lugs like crazy, dies at stops. Slow to restart, but will continue like that. So...idles fine but dies when moving.
-mechanic ruled out intake manifold leak, thought it looked tight. But didn't do a real exam.
The mechanic had put a new cap and rotor on, along with new plugs (x2) and wires. He said the points are therefore good. He also said they checked out the extra jets in the carb and they are huge, so didn't change the jets.
This is making him think the carb is the issue- needs rebuilding or something else. Again, this is a 6-month old City Racer- is it possible it's in need of rebuilding?
I took video; if someone can tell me how to post I will.
- Thread starter
- #27
It's behaving exactly like a blocked primary jet. Did you remove the lug bottom left of the sight glass and blow out , or use a thin wire to clean the jet inside?
- Thread starter
- #29
the mechanics have been hesitant to dig into the carb, so I doubt it.
It's a very simple 5 min job. It's happened to me many times. I even carry a guitar g-string for emergencies
- Thread starter
- #31
heading over there. I'll report back.It's a very simple 5 min job. It's happened to me many times. I even carry a guitar g-string for emergencies
whitey45
SILVER Star
You need a new mechanic!
- Thread starter
- #33
to be fair, they told me straightaway that they don't deal with carbs. Rich ladies with Land Rovers are their bread and butter. Fair enough.
- Thread starter
- #34
OK- I pulled that lower left lug and found what I believe is the stored high-altitude jet.It's a very simple 5 min job. It's happened to me many times. I even carry a guitar g-string for emergencies
I feel like Zoolander here, but the primary jet must be INSIDE that port? If so, what's the method for reaching it and cleaning it? This is what City Racer says:
- If you live at 4000+ feet above sea level, you should consider switching to high altitude jets. A pair of high altitude jets are provided behind the 2 bolts below the sight glass, as shown here. The standard jets can be accessed by sticking a screwdriver into each of the 2 holes.
...what do you do with the screwdriver...
And I do live at 9,000 feet, so if that is the high-altitude jet, I should look into swapping those in. The mechanic thought they looked way too big. Don't know what that means.
- Thread starter
- #36
shoot, didn't look. I can check tomorrow.
See my previous post. Looks like you have a vacuum retard distributor attached to the ported vacuum on your carb, which is for vacuum advance. Disconnect that vacuum line and plug the port on carb and distributor and check timing. It's not a fuel issue I think.
4Cruisers
SILVER Star
- Joined
- Apr 2, 2015
- Messages
- 7,767
If it's not an issue with your carburetor, and you decide to keep it, it has ported vacuum for vacuum advance. I have several refurbished points distributors with new NipponDenso vacuum advancers. PM me if interested. I can also set one up with Toyota electronic ignition if you'd like to eliminate the points - I also have the igniters you'd need.
- Thread starter
- #39
Thank you. All that is WAY over my head but if it helps I’m interested!
4Cruisers
SILVER Star
- Joined
- Apr 2, 2015
- Messages
- 7,767
You should focus on your immediate issue first. I can walk you through distributor options later.
