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- #61
Here is a shot of the throttle cable. Is a stock 40 cable with a lokar universal end and an adjuster setup I made out of a stainless bolt. I made a quick bracket to hold it all and I should have plenty of adjustment
'68 basket case resto-mod
- Thread starter Napoleon047
- Start date
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- #62
I couldn't get the lower radiator hose that everyone else recommended to work. I ended up using one from a 65 impala and a reducer on the radiator end
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- #63
I went with a simple fan mount over a shroud. I don't have a lot of water pump clearance so a shroud would have to be pretty low profile, making it less effective anyway.
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- #64
Got the body back from sandblasting and found some unexpected swiss cheese in the front body mounts.
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- #65
I made some new ones that should be plenty strong, will not trap moisture, and the inside can be painted.
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- #66
Started spraying the epoxy primer before it rusts in the open air
Wow nice work on the body mounts. Original is such a terrible design.
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- #68
Skim coat of rage gold to hide the weld joints and ridges in the bud built quarters
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- #69
Windshield frame repairs cleaned up nicely
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- #70
Started laying down the paint. I'm using summit racing hot rod flat tan single stage urethane. The primer was summit racing epoxy.
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- #71
Starting to look like a cruiser again
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- #72
The sm465 shifter tower is taller than the low portion of the tunnel and comes out right at the seam. The ramp shaped piece will provide a flat surface to mount the shifter boot and I ran it back far enough to patch someone else's butchering.
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- #73
The past couple of weeks haven't been that exciting. You can see the completed tunnel in this photo, the heater is mounted, I made a gauge panel and started wiring everything.
The gauges are Speedway Motors gauges. I like them because they work well, are inexpensive, and they don't have a giant brand name across the face. I cut the panel from 1/8" aluminum. I decided against a tachometer, mostly because the layout becomes a little funky to fit it in the panel, and I would rather have all the other gauges. I'll be keeping the FITECH programmer in the glove box, so if I want a tach at any time, all I need to do is plug it in.
All of my switches were in bad shape or downright unusable, so I am running regular toggle switches for everything. I got laser-engraved aluminum toggle labels from ebay for $2.50 each, which adds a nice finishing touch.
The gauges are Speedway Motors gauges. I like them because they work well, are inexpensive, and they don't have a giant brand name across the face. I cut the panel from 1/8" aluminum. I decided against a tachometer, mostly because the layout becomes a little funky to fit it in the panel, and I would rather have all the other gauges. I'll be keeping the FITECH programmer in the glove box, so if I want a tach at any time, all I need to do is plug it in.
All of my switches were in bad shape or downright unusable, so I am running regular toggle switches for everything. I got laser-engraved aluminum toggle labels from ebay for $2.50 each, which adds a nice finishing touch.
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- #74
The fuse block/wiring harness is a universal unit that has the wires labeled every foot or so, making it easy to hook everything up and troubleshoot.
The heater is a Summit Racing unit. It's physically smaller than the stock heater, so it clears the SM465 shifter, has defroster hook-ups, and has dual climate zones!
The heater is a Summit Racing unit. It's physically smaller than the stock heater, so it clears the SM465 shifter, has defroster hook-ups, and has dual climate zones!
As always, great attention to detail. It would be cool if you could post a link for the heater.
As soon as I saw the mod-ed trans tunnel, I wondered what you were going to do about the heater. Your answer could be helpful to a lot of V-8 guys.
As soon as I saw the mod-ed trans tunnel, I wondered what you were going to do about the heater. Your answer could be helpful to a lot of V-8 guys.
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- #76
Here is a link to the heater (made by Maradyne): Summit Racing® Automotive Heaters SUM-991101-1
This is the defroster kit: Summit Racing® Heater Defroster Kits SUM-991104-2
The heater is a 3-speed and includes a rotary switch. I didn't like the switch that came with it, so mine is hooked up to a toggle with only high and low hooked up (we'll see if I miss the middle speed). All I used from the defroster kit was the hoses and hose adapters.
The heater hose connections come out the back of the heater and directly through the firewall. They point directly at the distributor, so I used Gates 28471 hoses with a molded 90 to give me a sharp bend away from the distributor. This heater may not be a good option for those running the L6
This is the defroster kit: Summit Racing® Heater Defroster Kits SUM-991104-2
The heater is a 3-speed and includes a rotary switch. I didn't like the switch that came with it, so mine is hooked up to a toggle with only high and low hooked up (we'll see if I miss the middle speed). All I used from the defroster kit was the hoses and hose adapters.
The heater hose connections come out the back of the heater and directly through the firewall. They point directly at the distributor, so I used Gates 28471 hoses with a molded 90 to give me a sharp bend away from the distributor. This heater may not be a good option for those running the L6
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- #77
I replaced the round reflectors on the fender aprons with these LED marker lights: Sealed, Mini LED Side Marker, Clearance or Identification Light, 2 Wire, 2 Diode - Amber Optronics Trailer Lights MCL13A2B and wired them into the turn signal circuit. First and foremost, this was a safety move: since I no longer have fender-mounted turn signals, there would otherwise be a "dead spot" to the sides of the vehicle with no visible turn signal (think someone passing on either side). Also, they fit the existing holes in the apron left by the reflector, I only needed to drill a hole between them for the wires.
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- #78
Here is my "adapter box" that connects the FJ40 parking brake cable (on the left) to the two cables for the eldorado calipers (on the right). Since the mechanical advantage lever is built into the parking brake handle (using the stock one) instead of somewhere under the vehicle (like a Toyota Mini parking brake, where the cable attaches directly to the end of the pull handle shaft), I was able to tie them directly together. The handle pull is stiff (each caliper also has a return spring) but definitely doable. The gun-drilled bolt on the left allows me to adjust the tension once everything is installed.
Just stinking wow!
Nice fabrication skills!
Nice fabrication skills!
- Thread starter
- #80
Done?
