60 Series Australian sliding cargo window group buy round 2 (1 Viewer)

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@dbbowen so bad news. My wife accidentally pitched my middle divider.(silver aluminum stick) I understand the 80 series works if cut down? Do you know the part number? Having trouble with the diagrams?
 
@dbbowen so bad news. My wife accidentally pitched my middle divider.(silver aluminum stick) I understand the 80 series works if cut down? Do you know the part number? Having trouble with the diagrams?
I got the part numbers for the center dividers and the latches and the other little felt wiper part from the thread linked in the first thread on this post. Kinda got to dig around but it’s all in there. You’ll need the centers and these little tiny felt wipers from Toyota. Everything else is in the rubber seal kits
 
@dbbowen so bad news. My wife accidentally pitched my middle divider.(silver aluminum stick) I understand the 80 series works if cut down? Do you know the part number? Having trouble with the diagrams?
I used those and they worked beautifully. It’s almost exactly 1/2” that gets cut off, but it’s the same extrusion profile so they’re functionally identical once cut down. Just put a good one next to the new one, scribe, cut. Mind the orientation of the seals and stuff so you’re cutting it for the same fit.

Part number is in one of my long write up posts in the latter half of the thread Brian linked. I painted my frames black and I think the 80 center dividers - pre painted black - look really sharp.
 
I used those and they worked beautifully. It’s almost exactly 1/2” that gets cut off, but it’s the same extrusion profile so they’re functionally identical once cut down. Just put a good one next to the new one, scribe, cut. Mind the orientation of the seals and stuff so you’re cutting it for the same fit.

Part number is in one of my long write up posts in the latter half of the thread Brian linked. I painted my frames black and I think the 80 center dividers - pre painted black - look really sharp.
I agree. The black 80 series dividers look much better. I tried running my silver dividers but they were so corroded they wouldnt seat properly. After installing the 80 series ones im glad I did. The silver ones shine through the window and act like a divider. With the black ones and tint it looks like one big window at a glance
 
9 sets of sliding windows should be on my doorstep this Thursday if DHL doesnt have any delays. Theyre usually pretty quick


Rubber rebuild kits:
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How each window set is wrapped:
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I noticed my corners are pealing up a bit. Yes installed correctly….

I decided to add a little extra insurance to the corners. I’ve used this glue on my fj40 trim. It’s kinda of a pain to use. But it got the job done.

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I noticed my corners are pealing up a bit. Yes installed correctly….

I decided to add a little extra insurance to the corners. I’ve used this glue on my fj40 trim. It’s kinda of a pain to use. But it got the job done.

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I was thinking of using a little of the same. The corners are the hardest parts to get right. You kinda have to pull the center out to get the outer parts of the baileys into the ridge if that makes any sense.
 
I was thinking of using a little of the same. The corners are the hardest parts to get right. You kinda have to pull the center out to get the outer parts of the baileys into the ridge if that makes any sense.
it makes sense.

I re seated the trim about 3-4 times in each corner. I then temporarily installed the glass - Let the windows sit overnight and the gasket slipped out 1/4" in 2 corners on both windows. I gave up, and used the glue. I am glad i did. based on all the photos i see online - this spots seems that's where the gasket starts to pull up. You can see it in the post above. I will say my fingers are raw from the pushing and tugging on the rubber

@dbbowen - ordered a glass polishing kit - once that comes in and i can polish my glass ill finish my install. ( for everyone else - i am pretty sure my tint shop got after a spot with a razor blade - i have no proof and i don't want to get into it with them)

Did we ever figure out a solution for the clear tape? - seems that it acted like a 1 way valve.
 
it makes sense.

I re seated the trim about 3-4 times in each corner. I then temporarily installed the glass - Let the windows sit overnight and the gasket slipped out 1/4" in 2 corners on both windows. I gave up, and used the glue. I am glad i did. based on all the photos i see online - this spots seems that's where the gasket starts to pull up. You can see it in the post above. I will say my fingers are raw from the pushing and tugging on the rubber

@dbbowen - ordered a glass polishing kit - once that comes in and i can polish my glass ill finish my install. ( for everyone else - i am pretty sure my tint shop got after a spot with a razor blade - i have no proof and i don't want to get into it with them)

Did we ever figure out a solution for the clear tape? - seems that it acted like a 1 way valve.
Yeah on mine there is one corner where mine had some rust damage that the bailey gasket doesnt want to stay in, i periodically just re seat it but ill probably just glue it in there.

What clear tape?
 
Yeah on mine there is one corner where mine had some rust damage that the bailey gasket doesnt want to stay in, i periodically just re seat it but ill probably just glue it in there.

What clear tape?
Under my weep holes. I had a clear tape flap setup. Maybe it blocked noise or something
 
This is how i spread the glue inside track and on rubber. Let it tack up then held it in place with spring clamps.(clamping is key)

Also used acetone to clean up squeeze out.

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I used the Scott’s Old Rubber bailey channel. Not only did it fit beautifully down in the corner without any bunching up or drama, but it hasn’t moved a bit. It’s also not perforated at the corner - which might mean less water intrusion into the space under the rubber and above the frame. My $0.02.
 
I used the Scott’s Old Rubber bailey channel. Not only did it fit beautifully down in the corner without any bunching up or drama, but it hasn’t moved a bit. It’s also not perforated at the corner - which might mean less water intrusion into the space under the rubber and above the frame. My $0.02.
I'm almost positive that what is making the bailey channels not stay put in the corners of @Snicklephritz87 and my window frames is the added height of the powder coat making the hook on the inside of the window frames not as pronounced. I didn't really have the problem of them not staying in when i test fit the windows before powder vs after
 
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I'm almost positive that what is making the bailey channels not stay put in the corners of @Snicklephritz87 and my window frames is the added height of the powder coat making the hook on the inside of the window frames not as pronounced. I didn't really have the problem of them not staying in when i test fit the windows before powder vs after
I know the little lip or edge on the frame that you’re talking about, the bailey channel sits *just* inside of it.

FWIW I did two coats of primer and three top coats, all of fairly heavy bodied spray paint. Not sure how the mil thickness would compare to powder coat.
 

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