- Thread starter
- #61
Do I need to put sealant on both sides of the cover or just the panel side?
5/71 FJ55 field rescue
- Thread starter jdfording
- Start date
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Do I need to put sealant on both sides of the cover or just the panel side?
I always put FPG down both sides, across bottom, and around those bolt holes on both sides of the cork gasket. Stick it on cover and push the lower corner bolts through, stick it on block an finger tighten those bolts then the top two. Then I finger tighten all the way around then wrench tighten alternating back and forth to seat as flat as possible. All this is easier with the dizzy removed of course 
Tucker
Tucker
- Thread starter
- #63
It only took me 5 tries to get the engine side panel to go on without leaking...
Had to re-time the engine because I forgot to mark the dizzy when I pulled it out of the block. Got the bucket seats installed and the front driveshaft.
Here's where she is currently sitting. Next to my friends 84 FJ60. He purchased it from a guy in Nevada for $400. It was in rough shape but it's lookin nice now. It sat for years in the desert.
Woke up to this, this morning:
Questions:
How do I tell if I'm in 4WD? My red light on the cosole is missing. When I pull the F.D button and leave the handle in, the front driveshaft spins when I move. (I have the floor hump removed) When I pull the handle all the way out she won't move. When the F.D button is in the front driveshaft still moves...I have the hubs locked as well.
Any suggestions on getting turn signals to work? I'm thinking it's in the stick on the column. If I turn on my brights sometimes I have to jiggle the stick for them to come on. I also have no reverse lights.
Any tricks to getting the heater to come on? Mine has the pull lever and nothing...The rear heater works great though. But I'm gonna need defrost.
Had to re-time the engine because I forgot to mark the dizzy when I pulled it out of the block. Got the bucket seats installed and the front driveshaft.Here's where she is currently sitting. Next to my friends 84 FJ60. He purchased it from a guy in Nevada for $400. It was in rough shape but it's lookin nice now. It sat for years in the desert.
Woke up to this, this morning:
Questions:
How do I tell if I'm in 4WD? My red light on the cosole is missing. When I pull the F.D button and leave the handle in, the front driveshaft spins when I move. (I have the floor hump removed) When I pull the handle all the way out she won't move. When the F.D button is in the front driveshaft still moves...I have the hubs locked as well.
Any suggestions on getting turn signals to work? I'm thinking it's in the stick on the column. If I turn on my brights sometimes I have to jiggle the stick for them to come on. I also have no reverse lights.
Any tricks to getting the heater to come on? Mine has the pull lever and nothing...The rear heater works great though. But I'm gonna need defrost.
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Nice storage shed!
What is the story on that?!?
Aren't you around Walden? We drove through there over the weekend...
What is the story on that?!?
Aren't you around Walden? We drove through there over the weekend...
- Thread starter
- #65
That's a hanger at the Hayden airport. Just west of Steamboat Springs.
Been driving her around town. I got all the lights sorted out and the speedo installed. The oil, temp and fuel guage are inop though.
The PO installed a guage pack under the 4WD controls that shows temp, oil pressure and amps but only the oil pressure guage works. I would like to get the actual guage cluster working 100% though.I'm gonna try and drive her 30 miles home tomorrow and see how she does.
Question: Any tips on getting a fuel sender working again? I haven't pulled it yet but I'm assuming this is going to be the problem. Looks like new sending units have been discontinued.
I also found a brand new windshield for $210 installed. I just have to buy a new seal.
- Thread starter
- #66
1 step forward 2 steps back... Had all the lights working and finally no oil leaks. Parked her overnight at work because I had my wifes Jeep. Came in the next day to drive her home. She wouldn't start. No lights either. Finally got her to start and had a bad knock coming from the engine. Has to be a rod bearing.
Pulled it in the shop and did what I should of when I first got her. The first time I drained the oil it was nasty and had some water in it. I figured it was just from sitting for so long. Guess I was wrong. Took about an hour to pull the head off. Took longer to clean the head, valve cover and the block of old sealant. I really didn't feel like pulling the side panel for the 5th or 6th time (lost count) but ended up doing it anyway because I cracked the copper oil tube that connects to the rocker arm rod.
Luckily Napa had the tubing and ferals in stock so I made a new one.
Got the top of the engine back together and started on the bottom. The bottom of the oil pan had a nice collection of metal bits in it. Pulled the oil pump filter and will start pulling the bearing caps today. Hopefully I can get away with just replacing the bearings for now. I really can't throw anymore money at this for awhile. If this doesn't solve the problem I'm going to park her till spring. Live and learn I guess...
The night before this all happened I had every light working. The next day I had nothing. I got the hazards to work but no headlights or turn signals. The fuses all look good. The PO installed an inline fuse for the rear heater and that was blown. Replaced it now I have rear heat. Any suggestions on what to try next? Wiring/electrical is not my strong point.
Had all the lights working and finally no oil leaks. Parked her overnight at work because I had my wifes Jeep. Came in the next day to drive her home. She wouldn't start. No lights either. Finally got her to start and had a bad knock coming from the engine. Has to be a rod bearing.Pulled it in the shop and did what I should of when I first got her. The first time I drained the oil it was nasty and had some water in it. I figured it was just from sitting for so long. Guess I was wrong. Took about an hour to pull the head off. Took longer to clean the head, valve cover and the block of old sealant. I really didn't feel like pulling the side panel for the 5th or 6th time (lost count) but ended up doing it anyway because I cracked the copper oil tube that connects to the rocker arm rod.
Luckily Napa had the tubing and ferals in stock so I made a new one. Got the top of the engine back together and started on the bottom. The bottom of the oil pan had a nice collection of metal bits in it. Pulled the oil pump filter and will start pulling the bearing caps today. Hopefully I can get away with just replacing the bearings for now. I really can't throw anymore money at this for awhile. If this doesn't solve the problem I'm going to park her till spring. Live and learn I guess...
The night before this all happened I had every light working. The next day I had nothing. I got the hazards to work but no headlights or turn signals. The fuses all look good. The PO installed an inline fuse for the rear heater and that was blown. Replaced it now I have rear heat. Any suggestions on what to try next? Wiring/electrical is not my strong point.
Sorry this is frustrating right now.
Sometimes the best strategy can be to take a break.
I know when I have gotten pissed at my Pig I have taken a break from wrenching on it, but the funny thing is that my mind still works on it even when I am away from it. Cool how the mind runs through problem solving...
I am trying to follow your description of events. When you first got it, there was water in the oil, was there water in the oil again? Do you think you have a blown head gasket? Let us know what you find when you pull the caps.
I think anytime you fire up a 40 year old engine that has been sitting for a while, you take a risk. I am sorry that this time it did not pay off.
Check your fuses for continuity using a multi-meter. Sometimes the fuses are good but there is resistance in the fuse block at the junction. Taking the fuses out and pushing them back in can fix it, or polishing the contacts with some Emory cloth can help.
Good luck, take a break if it is not fun!
Sometimes the best strategy can be to take a break.
I know when I have gotten pissed at my Pig I have taken a break from wrenching on it, but the funny thing is that my mind still works on it even when I am away from it. Cool how the mind runs through problem solving...
I am trying to follow your description of events. When you first got it, there was water in the oil, was there water in the oil again? Do you think you have a blown head gasket? Let us know what you find when you pull the caps.
I think anytime you fire up a 40 year old engine that has been sitting for a while, you take a risk. I am sorry that this time it did not pay off.
Check your fuses for continuity using a multi-meter. Sometimes the fuses are good but there is resistance in the fuse block at the junction. Taking the fuses out and pushing them back in can fix it, or polishing the contacts with some Emory cloth can help.
Good luck, take a break if it is not fun!
- Thread starter
- #68
Water in the oil both times I changed it. I just did the head gasket. It was fubar. Still haven't got time to pull the bearing caps. Hopefully tomorrow.
Top is all back together. Just need to install the bearing caps (if I can ever get them off) and install the oil pan.
Top is all back together. Just need to install the bearing caps (if I can ever get them off) and install the oil pan.