5/71 FJ55 field rescue

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J

jdfording

10 Year
Joined
Jul 13, 2012
Threads
5
Messages
58
First post, long time lurker.

I recently picked up a 71 FJ55 that's been sitting in a field for 3+ years at a wearhouse in Hayden Colorado. It needs work but looks to be mostly stock. Payed $300 for it but there is no title so I'm currently in the process of getting a new one. This is a pita process but has to be done.

Me and a buddy brought his trailer to pick it up. The place it was sitting would of made it difficult to get a trailer in so we dropped in a battery and added some gas to the carb. **** thing fired right up on the first key turn. I couldn't belive it. Drove it right up onto the trailer and we brought it to his house since he has better tools.

The engine runs but the water pump is shot. Rear brake reservoir is empty so the wheel cylinders are probably leaking. My main goal right now is to get it running safely so I can drive it. She won't win any beauty contests but it should be a fun project.

I really need some drivers door hinges as well. Still trying to figure out how to open the rear tailgate. Key goes in and I can give it a quarter turn in each direction but nothing. Window doesn't go down either. Might be a fuse but from what I've read it's either the motor or the gear.

Seems like the early 71's are a wierd year. I noticed it's getting tough to find even mechanical parts for them.

Does anyone know if the wheel cylinder rebuild kits are worth messing with? Would save a lot of $$ if I could rebuild them. CCoT wants like $70 a piece for new ones, and I would probably need 4 of them just to do the rear. A full kit is $500! :eek:

Some pics:

Where she sat.

[URL="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5ffb-4V2kN4/UDrliPsEAuI/AAAAAAAANEo/ehzB64PT-AU/s912/IMG_0187.JPG"][/URL]

[URL="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9Slr2QZccq4/UDrlmUSDNhI/AAAAAAAANFI/UD0XYEXcs4Q/s912/IMG_0191.JPG"][/URL]

On the trailer.

[URL="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-WWsOGHyvmtU/UExQ7DTRvPI/AAAAAAAANFw/-jkSWxw2Vso/s912/IMG_0202.JPG"][/URL]

I have more pics but I think I'm limited till I post more.
 
Nie score. Have fun bringing it back. The lettering on the tires is a little small though ;)
 
ditto on the ansens. i have a set in the basement that i was going to use on my pig until i went back to stock.

wheel cylinders are a piece of cake to rebuild and will net you something far better than ccot. you will know it was done right and how it works.

on the rear window, can you hear the motor at all? if so, then the gear, if not, then from inside, you can pull the rear cover off the tailgate and test for power at the junction block. if there's power thank it's most likely the safety switch . if there's not power, look for bad wiring or a bad breaker, there is no fuse.

have you already initiated the new title thing? you might try just saying you lost it and see if they just issue you a new title. keep in mind that computer records only go back so far.

what's the problem with your door hinges? are they sloppy? if so, drill them out to take fj40 bushings and pins. easy fix there. if too tight, put them in a vise, spray the crap out of them with pb blaster and work them back and forth until loose again. check the doors where the hinges bolt to make sure the doors themselves aren't cracking away also. the bottom is most common.
 
arcteryx said:
Nie score. Have fun bringing it back. The lettering on the tires is a little small though ;)
Click to expand...
Haha yeah I think those letters are a bit overkill. I got some brand new 31" Goodyear Wrangler Duratracs to go on her. I think I'll face the white letters inside.
 
nuclearlemon said:
ditto on the ansens. i have a set in the basement that i was going to use on my pig until i went back to stock.

wheel cylinders are a piece of cake to rebuild and will net you something far better than ccot. you will know it was done right and how it works.

on the rear window, can you hear the motor at all? if so, then the gear, if not, then from inside, you can pull the rear cover off the tailgate and test for power at the junction block. if there's power thank it's most likely the safety switch . if there's not power, look for bad wiring or a bad breaker, there is no fuse.

have you already initiated the new title thing? you might try just saying you lost it and see if they just issue you a new title. keep in mind that computer records only go back so far.

what's the problem with your door hinges? are they sloppy? if so, drill them out to take fj40 bushings and pins. easy fix there. if too tight, put them in a vise, spray the crap out of them with pb blaster and work them back and forth until loose again. check the doors where the hinges bolt to make sure the doors themselves aren't cracking away also. the bottom is most common.
Click to expand...
Thanks for all the info. I'll look into the rebuild kits. Although I really should just go with discs. I've seen a lot of info on doing the front but not so much for the rear. I really don't want to drop the cash for a kit though. I live in Colorado there are plenty of cruiser yards out here to pick from.

I haven't messed with the rear window yet. I didn't know the switch for it was on the dash. I can't even get the tailgate to open. Do you press the button on the tailgate or just turn the key? My button looks pressed in and I can turn the key left or right about 1/4 turn but I didn't want to force it.

The new title is in the works. I have most of the leg work done so it shouldn't be to bad. A friend is doing most of the leg work for it.

My driver door hinge has a little plate thats cracked in half. Looks like (O___O) haven't really had time to tear it apart yet.

Got some parts coming this week. Just basic engine stuff. Will post more when I start to tear into her. Water pump is the first on the list. It's shot.
 
jdfording said:
Thanks for all the info. I'll look into the rebuild kits. Although I really should just go with discs. I've seen a lot of info on doing the front but not so much for the rear. I really don't want to drop the cash for a kit though. I live in Colorado there are plenty of cruiser yards out here to pick from.

I haven't messed with the rear window yet. I didn't know the switch for it was on the dash. I can't even get the tailgate to open. Do you press the button on the tailgate or just turn the key? My button looks pressed in and I can turn the key left or right about 1/4 turn but I didn't want to force it.

The new title is in the works. I have most of the leg work done so it shouldn't be to bad. A friend is doing most of the leg work for it.

My driver door hinge has a little plate thats cracked in half. Looks like (O___O) haven't really had time to tear it apart yet.

Got some parts coming this week. Just basic engine stuff. Will post more when I start to tear into her. Water pump is the first on the list. It's shot.
Click to expand...

there is the switch on the dash, and the key at the tailgate. both are supposed to work. the 1/4 turn is how the key works.

for front discs, mini truck or fj60 is a fairly easy swap. lots of threads in the tech section and in 40/55 tech detailing how to do it. for rears, requires brackets and chevy stuff and you have to have the rotors machined out to fit.

depending on where you are will depend on the cruiser yard. in denver, jimsgotparts is the best pricewise. problem with cruiser yards is they often think they have gold and charge likewise.
 
Finally got around to doing some work on the 55. Already replaced the water pump, thermostat, master cylinder and rebuilt all the wheel cylinders. Almost all the wheel cylinders were seized. I honed them and installed new seals on them. Installed new pads and had the drums rotated.

The brakes have been a pita to get working. I'm still having problems with them. So I have some questions. After I got everything installed I bled the brakes and adjusted the drums. My problem now is that the first time I press the brake pedal it goes to the floor. After 2 or 3 pumps the 55 stops on a dime. I cannot for the life of me figure out why. There is an air line that runs from the brake booster to the manifold that had a small hole in it but I cut the line down and reinstalled it. Is it possible the booster is bad? How do you tell? I hope it's not because I dont think they are available anymore. Theres no leaks coming from the brake lines. No air bubbles and the reservoirs stay full. The drums are adjusted right up to the pads. I'm stumped...

Also I noticed I have 5 wires hanging under the master cylinder. 2 of them were connected to the bottom of the master but then I found 2 more just like it hanging. I also found a wire (ground maybe?) hanging off the carburator not connected. Any ideas?





Looks like the emissions were gutted and the PO crimped all the pipes and removed the air rail. Can I get caps for these or will it be ok like it is? That hose running across the valve cover isn't connected to anything. It goes from the left side of the engine up across the valve cover and I don't see anything to connect it to.



Another (ground?) to no where....



and another from the carb



What is that mangled bracket next to the fuel filter?



Mangled speedo cable...



Looks like the bracket for the oil filter is held on by 1 bolt and doesn't look like it's the correct bracket. The oil line in the pic is mangled also.

I've got a massive oil leak coming from the back of the oil pan as well. I'm pretty sure it's the rear main.

Lot's of work ahead of me...:frown:
 
Can anyone tell if thats the original carb? I have friend with a 73 or 74 FJ40. He's doing a V8 swap and said I could have all his emissions stuff and even the 3 on the floor if I wanted it. Will this all bolt up?
 
The wire coming of the carb is for the idle cut-off solenoid. The wire will hook up to the + terminal on the ignition coil.

You can remove the ghetto bend and crimped air rail plugs and replace them with either 1/4 NPT pipe plugs, from ACE Hardware. Get the steel allen head plugs. If you want to spend the extra money you can buy OEM metric plugs from you local Toyota dealer parts dept. Part # 90340-14001. I've always use the 1/4 NPT from ACE and they worked well.
The wire under your air filter above the Alternator is probably for the ammeter, but thats just a guess. Get a schematic and trace the wire back to be certain.

The 2 wire connectors in between your ring and small finger slide on the pressure switches located under your brake master cylinder. The wire with the blue crimped connector, no idea. You'll have to trace it.
I believe the other wire with the slide connector that is above your index finger goes to the oil pressure switch, maybe.

Massive oil leak is probably the rear main, but can be a pan gasket, valve cover gasket, oil pressure regulator, or an oil line going either to an from the oil filter. If it is the main, you'll more that likely have to sleeve the crank and pop in a new seal. SOR should have the speedi sleeve. While you have the tranny and xfer out to change the rear main, good time to look at the clutch, T/O bearing, and pilot bushing/bearing.

Did you bench bleed the brake master cylinder prior to install? If not you will have air in the brake system and the pedal with go to the floor.
You can still get the brake booster, but they are pricey. I find boosters in the junkyard in the older 70s toyota cars, much cheaper option.
You can check to see if your is working (after you get all the air bled out of the system, and the shoes adjusted correctly) by pressing down on the brake pedal, and ten start the engine. The pedal should go down and little and hold. If the booster is leaking the pedal will go down almost or to the floor. Check the check valve coming out of the brake booster to see if it is allowing air to go one way and stop air flow in the other direction. I've had these go out a couple of times.
 
Thanks for all the info. Any idea where that hose thats hanging over the valve cover goes? My buddies 73-74 FJ40 has it plugged into the carb but on mine the carb is missing that port. On the air filter assembly there is a port on the bottom of the arm but the hose is to short to reach it and is much bigger diameter. The oil filter bracket seems wrong but the oil pressure hose is leaking. The PO actually cut this line and installed 2 hose clamps splicing in another piece of hose. It's leaking at the hose clamps.
 
The hose hanging over the valve cover goes from the PCV valve to the base of the carb. There should be an insulator under the carb with a angled tube coming out of it for the purpose of connecting the hose. Looking at one of the pictures it appears the tube was broken off the insulator and plugged with silicone. Easiest route for repair is find a good insulator.

Replace the oil line instead of trying to fix the hack job. Usually these type of repairs are disasters waiting to happen at the worst possible time. SOR might have the hose. Or you could take the busted hose to a hydraulic or pneudraulic shop and have them make one.
 
SOR has the oil lines. Looks like the insulator is no longer available but my friend is doing a V8 swap on his 74 FJ40 and I think it's the same carb setup. I'll take his. I can also grab his emissions stuff but will it run better with or without it? If not I'll just cap off the air rail. It's already been cut off and the tubes crimped.

Today we started on the rear window. Pulled the motor and it was seized. Opened the motor and cleaned it real good and it works great. Haven't put it back in yet though. The dash switch and the rear door switch work too.

My brights don't work. When you pull/push the lever they shut off. Lots more to do but progressing. Gonna bleed the master cylinder today and put the rear window back together. Hopefully I'll finally get these brakes sorted out.
 
jdfording said:
SOR has the oil lines. Looks like the insulator is no longer available but my friend is doing a V8 swap on his 74 FJ40 and I think it's the same carb setup. I'll take his. I can also grab his emissions stuff but will it run better with or without it? If not I'll just cap off the air rail. It's already been cut off and the tubes crimped.

Today we started on the rear window. Pulled the motor and it was seized. Opened the motor and cleaned it real good and it works great. Haven't put it back in yet though. The dash switch and the rear door switch work too.

My brights don't work. When you pull/push the lever they shut off. Lots more to do but progressing. Gonna bleed the master cylinder today and put the rear window back together. Hopefully I'll finally get these brakes sorted out.
Click to expand...

And another one goes ass deep on the journey.... Good Luck! It's a lot of fun!:cheers:
 
I got brakes! After numerous adjustments and bleeds I can finally lock up the brakes on the first pedal press. Might bleed them 1 more time just to be sure though. The brake adjustment tool that SOR sells works great. Made the job a lot faster. I'll upgrade to discs at some point though.

Anyone have a carb insulator plate that would work on a 71? My tube is broke off mine and they don't sell em anymore. I wonder if this is part of the cause of my oil leak. The flywheel is dry so I'm going to change the oil lines and the oil pan seal before dropping the tranny. The flywheel looks brand new. I think this is the last thing that was done to the 55 before it was parked. The old clutch was on the passenger floor.

Also what type of gear oil should I use in the diffs?
 
jdfording said:
I got brakes! After numerous adjustments and bleeds I can finally lock up the brakes on the first pedal press. Might bleed them 1 more time just to be sure though. The brake adjustment tool that SOR sells works great. Made the job a lot faster. I'll upgrade to discs at some point though.

Anyone have a carb insulator plate that would work on a 71? My tube is broke off mine and they don't sell em anymore. I wonder if this is part of the cause of my oil leak. The flywheel is dry so I'm going to change the oil lines and the oil pan seal before dropping the tranny. The flywheel looks brand new. I think this is the last thing that was done to the 55 before it was parked. The old clutch was on the passenger floor.

Also what type of gear oil should I use in the diffs?
Click to expand...

You could modify the insulator. It might be possible to find a fitting a little bit larger in diameter than the inside of the broken tube that runs through the insulator. Tap it, and thread in the fitting. Another suggestion would be to completely drill out the broken tube, get a fitting a little larger than the hole you just made, tap it, and thred in the fitting. Be careful tapping and threading in the fitting, since the insulator is just a phenolic laminate. Also take of the insulator when drilling and tapping so you don't get crap in the intake.
 
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