4Runner Oil Pressure

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Trapper50cal

TEQ Frame of Mind
Supporting Vendor
Joined
Mar 22, 2005
Threads
120
Messages
8,027
Location
Durango, CO
My gal has a 93 Forerunner that when first started has perfect oil pressure but after running at operating temp for a while looses most of the oil pressure and drops below the low "acceptable" range even at high rpms and drops almost completely off at idle. Obviously I have made sure the oil level is appropriate. What's going on? Bad pump? It has 185k on the odo. Any of you 4runner gurus experience this?
 
Well, no oil pressure or low oil pressure at idle is normal. Are you saying it is on 0 at idle?

The no pressure at high rpm is what is concerning.

So, what engine? Perhaps you have a clogged pump screen not a bad pump. Perhaps you have timing chain guides broken off in the pan.

Perhaps the oil pressure sending unit is jacked. Lots of things to consider.

There is a way, I believe, to put in a manual oil pressure gauge. I have never done it but that tells immediately what is going on.
 
Last edited:
First thing I would do is get an aftermarket mechanical oil pressure gauge. Never trust the factory gauges, they are hopelessly innacurate.
 
1st thing I would do is consult the owners manual....I know, I know, whats that? and, yeah the thing you'll have to blow the dust off of to read....


I have a friend that went through the same thing, "it aint got NO oil pressure" well, clearly described in the manual it was where it was supposed to be....


he wanted me to rebuild the motor couse of this...:rolleyes: good thing I looked...


once toys are warm, at idle they resemble no oil pressure
 
Last edited:
Well

It has the v6

Furthermore, the temp never goes above the midway point, it will drop below middle when the clutchfan kicks in.

It will drop to what appears to be zero at idle and go to the low line "acceptable" at all rpms above idle.

When it first starts up, the oil pressure is correct, right in the middle.

I think the gauge/sender is hinky
 
oil pressure changes with the temp of the oil.


cold oil it thicker...hence the high


hot oil is thinner....


the book says when and where the OP should be cold and hot.
 
except

There seems to be no correlation in this case, I realize than hot oil is less viscous and that cold oil is "thicker" but this oil pressure reads both very low and middle of the road both at operating temp. (middle) furthermore, I would assume that higher rpms would raise oil pressure due to the dizzy running the oil pump (doesn't it in the 4runner's case?) In this truck, sometimes thats the case and sometimes it's not.

I'll read the manual, see what it has to say
 
I would assume that higher rpms would raise oil pressure due to the dizzy running the oil pump (doesn't it in the 4runner's case?)



nope, sorry, Toyota runs them off the crank in a very weird and not common configuration. It's harder to prime these motors b/c of that.

But I guess it works :meh:

same as the 22R/Es IIRC


are you saying that the gauge has no fluctuation once warm and you increase the rpms?
 
Thinner oil like 5W30 will also give lower readings. Try a thicker oil. Those OEM gauges are fickle. I've had three boneyard gauges in my truck (because of bad temp gauges) and they all read different. Get an aftermarket gauge and call it a day.
 
Roger that

Thinner oil like 5W30 will also give lower readings. Try a thicker oil. Those OEM gauges are fickle. I've had three boneyard gauges in my truck (because of bad temp gauges) and they all read different. Get an aftermarket gauge and call it a day.

running 10W30
 
I had this problem last summer, was running 10W30 Valvoline. As I approached each oil change the needle would hover closer to "L". Never had any issues from insufficient oil pressure but I think I found the cause. The Slo has an oil cooler on the driver's side of the block and mine was dirty as sin (short cylinder shape w/line to it). I sprayed it down with Simple Green a few times at the car wash to clean things up. My oil wasn't horrible but I think it was breaking down faster due to running on the hot side. Before I cleaned the cooler it stayed at the mark before the "L" consistently for about 1,000 miles. However I threw a wrench in the experiment and went whole hog on synthetic at the same time. Weather it was cleaning the cooler or switching oil now it's always at the "L" at idle.

The factory gauges totally bite.
:cheers:
 
Back
Top Bottom