4Runner Issues (1 Viewer)

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I keep hearing rumors that you are seriously contemplating taking the 40....

Really?

Seriously?

I think that would be a very bad idea for this type of trip.

I figure I have three options, actually two.

  1. Take Da'40
  2. Take the 4Runner
  3. Not go

Number three is not an option. Taking the 4Runner is my first choice, but right now I'm not sure it's a good idea. I agree with you about Da'40. It will make for an adventure, to say the least. I can probably count on all fingers and toes why I shouldn't take it, and I'm sure you can too. Trust me, I know what I'm in for.
 
And Mike can always tow you home.
 
And Mike can always tow you home.

Or vice versa. :confused:

We've covered hundreds of miles on some really bad roads and things are shaking off both vehicles but we're still rolling. Neither of us has lost any big pieces that we can't do without. I don't think there is any way to get pics up but I'll think about how to get that done before we come back by this internet access again.

I'm having a blast though so stay tuned!
-Mike-
 
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We've covered hundreds of miles on some really bad roads and things are shaking off both vehicles but we're still rolling. Neither of us has lost any big pieces that we can't do without.

I'm having a blast though so stay tuned!
-Mike-

Glad to hear that you are both having fun! What sorts of "things" are shaking off the vehicles? Good thing all the big pieces that you need are still hanging on!
 
I lost a nut to the alternator most likely due to a hasty install. The tailpipe hanger lost the nut. Mike had a spare which was installed .. but it didn't matter since it broke the weld to the pipe. Mike's panhard lock nut came loose.
 
Back up top. Tried a couple of things.

First. I "hot-wired" the fuel pump. Instead of running the pump through a pair of OEM relays I powered the pump directly off the battery. It did make a difference, but did not solve the problem.

Second. I bypassed the fuel pressure regulator VSV. This valve lowers the fuel pressure at idle, and increases the fuel pressure under load. If the valve fails it keeps the fuel pressure at the lower of two settings. I have it disabled so I'm running the higher fuel pressure all the time. It also did not solve my problem.

So my question is ... can a relay "wear out" and limit the amount of energy running through it? I always thought when relays failed they were either on or off.
 
So my question is ... can a relay "wear out" and limit the amount of energy running through it? I always thought when relays failed they were either on or off.

Yes, although not usually. The relay contacts can develop enough non-conductive "gunk" on them that only a small amount of amperage gets through - enough to power the circuit but not enough to run whatever the relay is for reliably. Think about a bad set of points (in the dizzy for you youngsters) where there is enough contact to make some spark, but not reliable enough to produce strong reliable spark on each cylinder all the time. BTDT.

Somewhere in my stores I have a file my dad gave me to smooth out the surfaces of dizzy points so they made better contact. A relay is just the same thing - a mechanical switch (unless there are solid state ones now) that uses a magnet to open and close the physical circuit. It can just wear out over gradual time. I learned this with the early generation Porsche fuel injection relays. FWIW.
 
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Thanks Greg. Like I said there are two relays involved. The Main Relay powers the ECU and the Circuit Opening Relay. The COR powers the fuel pump. AmToy has the main relay in stock for $9. The COR is special order to the tune of about $130. Since the main relay is in stock, which suggests it does fail on occasion, and it's cheap, and it powers both the pump and ECU ... I'm going to start there and see what happens.
 
F'K! I knew it had to be something obvious. Lean condition resolved. Not sure about the restart issue yet.
 
:grinpimp: Fuel pump.
 
4am on thurs? Where in the heck are you guys going?
 
Hey, if Mikie's game Baja is nice this time of year.
 
Hey, if Mikie's game Baja is nice this time of year.

I am totally confused at the direction of this thread.

Regarding Baja.... The March '11 trip was the best vacation I've ever had and I really wanted to do it again in Spring '12. Unfortunately we are doing a major system conversion that is currently underway with a go-live in early March '12. The company has mandated that NOBODY will have vacation approved from Jan '12 through April '12. That includes me. :frown:

If Jon postpones the trip until May or later then I am all in. It was starting to get hot down there in March and May is past peak on desert flowers. I have been giving some thought to a solo trip in May if I stayed in the 'developed' areas. Cruise Moab would get in the way of early May so it would have to be later in the month.

(Where did I leave that Fluent Spanish in 1 week book?)

-Mike-
 
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If Jon postpones the trip until May or later then I am all in.

-Mike-

Thinking. Seems I might have volunteered to work a weekend in May, but I think it's Memorial Day weekend at the end of the month. It will be warm. Once we go into season it's also hard for me to escape.

Engine runs better. Front axle rebuilt, including new brakes. Now I just need to point the rear pinion up and she will be ready to crawl back up Santa Maria.
 
Can't win. I'm in a hurry this morning. I need to take the cat to the vet, then be at work by 8am. Vet opens at 7:30 so it's very possible.

Jump in the 4R, engine lights ... then stalls. WTF? Try again and same thing. Finally get it to stay lit, back out of the garage, notice CEL. Engine stalls halfway out of the garage. Pull codes:

  • 5: Ox sensor
  • 6: Ignitor
  • 12: Knock sensor

Really confused. The only thing common to those was the ECU. Grab tools. Pull and exchange ECU with boneyard spare. Engine lights and I make it to work by 8:00. I guess after 346K it was about time.
 

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