40th Birthday Present
- Thread starter biomax
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #82
Makes 2 of us. But the rain, and family obligations, makes all the work I'm doing slower than I'd like it to go. So I'd estimate 2 more weekends before all the wiring is done, perhaps next weekend.
R
X3 and that should be like sun light ..
light bar
I really gotta see this rig in person now,i want to see that light bar in action.BTW i haven't forgotten about the flat bed truck in the middle of the night,LOL
.will you be attending pismo next month?
I really gotta see this rig in person now,i want to see that light bar in action.BTW i haven't forgotten about the flat bed truck in the middle of the night,LOL
.will you be attending pismo next month?- Thread starter
- #85
Pismo is a 50-50 now. Work is keeping me very busy, and the rig has been apart the last few weeks doing wiring, etc. So I may be able to have it together by then - but doubtful the carpet issue will be resolved.
Mainly it depends on work. Won't know until close before the event.
Mainly it depends on work. Won't know until close before the event.
Bio, will you be willing to have me and ben as a foster brother?will help you spend all that hard earned dollar and help you with your project.
John
- Thread starter
- #88
Guys, the funds are about depleted. At this point, it's little things like wiring and installing other things purchased long ago (i.e., stereo and Wagongear panels that have been sitting in my office for about 2 years).
R
R
I didn't see it mentioned, but aren't you worried about the fog lights hung under the bumper?
The rest of the rig looks great.
The rest of the rig looks great.
- Thread starter
- #90
Not really. It'll be on road more than off. (well, the off road will be rutted, etc. Typical hunting stuff.) And there is really plenty of ground clearance. I don't anticipate rock crawling, but with 2 loose allen bolts, they'll swing back up out of the way. Or I can just unbolt them. It'd take about 5 minutes max with the right tools.
Fogs are more important to be down low. That's why they're not above the bumper (the usual ARB mount location). And here in San Francisco it's foggy over 1/2 the days of the year.
Fogs are more important to be down low. That's why they're not above the bumper (the usual ARB mount location). And here in San Francisco it's foggy over 1/2 the days of the year.
- Thread starter
- #91
Rained all weekend and only had about 4 hours to try to get as much done so I could get her to the smog station by next weekend.
Well, it won't be done by then (no Surf n Turf likely either) but will be together enough to get moving and smogged.
Had time to wire up the fogs (well route all cables into engine bay) and start wiring the roof lights (backup and LED bar). Got the 12VoltGuy winch harness wired in.
At this point, basically all wires are in the engine bay (or for the roof rack, ready to be run into the cabin).
This week we'll get the roof rack lights into the cabin, the driver's seat back on, and parts out of the cabin.
That way she'll be ready for Smog.
Next weekend, hope to finish off the wiring. Meaning run all wires through firewall and connect switches. That'll be a big step.
Oh, due to the rain, spent an hour in the back installing three point belts (mine didn't have them). Got one roughed in, but noticed I didn't have nuts/bolts to bolt the bottom part (regulator?) in. So that'll wait. Hard part was routing the speaker wire and fuel filler door cable.
I'll take pics of all of this next weekend after Smog and before finishing the wiring job.
R
Well, it won't be done by then (no Surf n Turf likely either) but will be together enough to get moving and smogged.
Had time to wire up the fogs (well route all cables into engine bay) and start wiring the roof lights (backup and LED bar). Got the 12VoltGuy winch harness wired in.
At this point, basically all wires are in the engine bay (or for the roof rack, ready to be run into the cabin).
This week we'll get the roof rack lights into the cabin, the driver's seat back on, and parts out of the cabin.
That way she'll be ready for Smog.
Next weekend, hope to finish off the wiring. Meaning run all wires through firewall and connect switches. That'll be a big step.
Oh, due to the rain, spent an hour in the back installing three point belts (mine didn't have them). Got one roughed in, but noticed I didn't have nuts/bolts to bolt the bottom part (regulator?) in. So that'll wait. Hard part was routing the speaker wire and fuel filler door cable.
I'll take pics of all of this next weekend after Smog and before finishing the wiring job.
R
Uh, wow. If Icon made an FJ62, this would be it. Nicest 62 I've seen, IMO.
light bar pic
Will you post pics of your light bar lighted up at night when your done?i'm sure your neighbors won't mind.lol
John
Will you post pics of your light bar lighted up at night when your done?i'm sure your neighbors won't mind.lol
John
- Thread starter
- #94
John - of course! I've not had a lot of time lately. Plus it's been raining. Plus, I've rewired the roof lights 3x now. Each time finding a better solution. Plus, I've been working on getting some better mounts for the LED bar. So, in summary, my final mounting should be this weekend. HOpefully (rain permitting) I'll also have time to finish wiring them. That's the goal.
Now, I'll still need to run the switches. So that may be next weekend.
R
Now, I'll still need to run the switches. So that may be next weekend.
R
Firstly, love this build!!
The only thing with the LED Lightbar would be the amount of glare off the bonnet with it being mounted so close to the leading edge of the roof? I used to have 3x Hella 4000's on the rollbar of my Navara ute a few years ago, and I had to have black antenna's on the bullbar otherwise the glare was just too intense for an all night drive.
I don't know how "directional" an LED light is, but there would be a fair bit coming off that bonnet for sure..... Time will tell I guess, and it may not be as big an issue for you anyway.
The only thing with the LED Lightbar would be the amount of glare off the bonnet with it being mounted so close to the leading edge of the roof? I used to have 3x Hella 4000's on the rollbar of my Navara ute a few years ago, and I had to have black antenna's on the bullbar otherwise the glare was just too intense for an all night drive.
I don't know how "directional" an LED light is, but there would be a fair bit coming off that bonnet for sure..... Time will tell I guess, and it may not be as big an issue for you anyway.
- Thread starter
- #96
Another little update.
I know I owe a lot of pics. I plan to do that one night this week while I'm waiting on more parts to come in.
Since the last few posts, I've wired and re-wired the roof lights about 3x. I've been trying to find the best way to get them inside without cutting holes. I think I have a solution, and am waiting on heat shrink tubing (instead of the 1/4" loom I was using) which should arrive this week.
Next weekend (or one night this week) I'll wire them up again and then (weather permitting) next weekend will be Wiring Weekend! Lots of wiring to finish.
This weekend, I cleaned out all the parts and had her smogged. passed with flying colors. Also completed the rear seat belt install. I'll take pics of that, but cut away a lot of metal to make sure i could route cables into the back. Also had to toss the bolts that came with the rear belts as i couldn't find matching nuts at Lowes or HD. So got new ones and bolted them down real good. My hands are all sort of torn up from the sharp sheet metal.
Forgot that I hadn't installed my LED's in the ceiling, so installed the one in the cabin, and while installing the rear cargo LED, noticed the light was broken (internally). So I'll need to order a new one of those.
Also (after repeated returns) finally got the best mount I can for the LED aux lights. The issue was trying to mount it to the lower ARB bar. When mounted to the upper bar, the light sticks above the rack - no protection. If I could mount to the lower bar, it would have (some) protection. However, the lower bar is less than 1.5" in diameter, and a 1.5" mount just didn't cut it. Plus, for the 40" wide LED light I have, there were welds preventing the mounts from really being where they needed to be. So I've reverted to installing on the top bar (as my earlier pics show). In the interim, I've re-tapped the mounts and are using proprietary bolts and nuts that should help resist thieving hands. (Nothing is theft proof, but this should prevent all but the really determined thieves).
Oh! Also have Kevin at Wagongear finishing up new rear panels (designed to work w/ the rear 3-point belts) and he's installing Tuffy locks in them for me. Keyed to my tuffy console. I should have those in a few weeks.
So next week, hopefully will get it all wired up. Then back to Mudrak to fix the carpet issue.
Then little things (detachable steering wheel, wiring up the tow hitch, etc.)
Won't make it to SNT, but will be ready for the next get together...
R
I know I owe a lot of pics. I plan to do that one night this week while I'm waiting on more parts to come in.
Since the last few posts, I've wired and re-wired the roof lights about 3x. I've been trying to find the best way to get them inside without cutting holes. I think I have a solution, and am waiting on heat shrink tubing (instead of the 1/4" loom I was using) which should arrive this week.
Next weekend (or one night this week) I'll wire them up again and then (weather permitting) next weekend will be Wiring Weekend! Lots of wiring to finish.
This weekend, I cleaned out all the parts and had her smogged. passed with flying colors. Also completed the rear seat belt install. I'll take pics of that, but cut away a lot of metal to make sure i could route cables into the back. Also had to toss the bolts that came with the rear belts as i couldn't find matching nuts at Lowes or HD. So got new ones and bolted them down real good. My hands are all sort of torn up from the sharp sheet metal.
Forgot that I hadn't installed my LED's in the ceiling, so installed the one in the cabin, and while installing the rear cargo LED, noticed the light was broken (internally). So I'll need to order a new one of those.
Also (after repeated returns) finally got the best mount I can for the LED aux lights. The issue was trying to mount it to the lower ARB bar. When mounted to the upper bar, the light sticks above the rack - no protection. If I could mount to the lower bar, it would have (some) protection. However, the lower bar is less than 1.5" in diameter, and a 1.5" mount just didn't cut it. Plus, for the 40" wide LED light I have, there were welds preventing the mounts from really being where they needed to be. So I've reverted to installing on the top bar (as my earlier pics show). In the interim, I've re-tapped the mounts and are using proprietary bolts and nuts that should help resist thieving hands. (Nothing is theft proof, but this should prevent all but the really determined thieves).
Oh! Also have Kevin at Wagongear finishing up new rear panels (designed to work w/ the rear 3-point belts) and he's installing Tuffy locks in them for me. Keyed to my tuffy console. I should have those in a few weeks.
So next week, hopefully will get it all wired up. Then back to Mudrak to fix the carpet issue.
Then little things (detachable steering wheel, wiring up the tow hitch, etc.)
Won't make it to SNT, but will be ready for the next get together...
R
- Thread starter
- #97
Update
So I said I owed pics. Here's an intensive post. Last few weekends have been rainy and not a lot of progress.
But started with the passenger side rear seatbelt. Cut away enough material to slide the new assembly in. As it came with bolts, but no nuts, I couldn't find matching nuts at the local hardware store, so I bought new nuts, washers, and bolts and bolted it right in. You can see I had to re-orient the fuel filler release cable and my rear speaker wiring.
Here are pics with the trim pieces (found at cruiserparts.net) installed. (Note, trim pieces are discontinued).
Here's the driver's side. Notice the wiring loom that necessitated a large area cut out to get it over and behind the seatbelt assembly. Not only did it need a large opening, I had to cut open the metal behind the front piece to run the loom (see evidence of my poor dremmel skills in the 2nd pic.)
Then I wired up the rack lights (front/rear) for the 3rd time. Using heat shrink tubing along the whole run. I ran the wires in the 3/8" diameter, then joined the 2 and ran that into the rear hatch with the 3/4". I ordered the following from buyheatshrink.com:
3/4 inch 3:1 Dual Wall (adhesive lined) heat shrink, Black : 4'
3/8 inch 3:1 Dual Wall (adhesive lined) heat shrink, Black : 16'
The Rigid bar comes with a water tight cable ending in a connector so I left that as is.
Then I gut the other connector off and connected 12 gauge wire to run the remainder of the distance (to the battery/ground).
That ran (inside the heat shrink) to the back to meet the backup light.
For the rear IPF light, I connected some loom (one of the prior wiring attempts and I didn't want to re-do it) from the light to its connector.
Then connected the other connector to 16 gauge wire for the remainder (battery/ground) and covered it with 3/8" heat shrink.
The 2x16 gauge backup wires, and the 2x12ga Rigid wires (each in their own heat shrink) were combined in the larger 3/4" heat shrink near the driver's rear rack mount and then run into the rear hatch:
I ran that down the side of the hatch weatherstripping, made a loop (so any water would drip off the low point instead of following the wire inside the truck) and ran it in behind the trim piece where I had cut a hole (and included a grommet).
Once inside the truck, I included a set of quick disconnects so I can unhook the wires (and roof rack) if I ever need to. The wires then trace their way up the driver's side to the battery.
[due to restrictions in the number of pics/post, the rest can be found in the next post]
Robert
So I said I owed pics. Here's an intensive post. Last few weekends have been rainy and not a lot of progress.
But started with the passenger side rear seatbelt. Cut away enough material to slide the new assembly in. As it came with bolts, but no nuts, I couldn't find matching nuts at the local hardware store, so I bought new nuts, washers, and bolts and bolted it right in. You can see I had to re-orient the fuel filler release cable and my rear speaker wiring.
Here are pics with the trim pieces (found at cruiserparts.net) installed. (Note, trim pieces are discontinued).
Here's the driver's side. Notice the wiring loom that necessitated a large area cut out to get it over and behind the seatbelt assembly. Not only did it need a large opening, I had to cut open the metal behind the front piece to run the loom (see evidence of my poor dremmel skills in the 2nd pic.)
Then I wired up the rack lights (front/rear) for the 3rd time. Using heat shrink tubing along the whole run. I ran the wires in the 3/8" diameter, then joined the 2 and ran that into the rear hatch with the 3/4". I ordered the following from buyheatshrink.com:
3/4 inch 3:1 Dual Wall (adhesive lined) heat shrink, Black : 4'
3/8 inch 3:1 Dual Wall (adhesive lined) heat shrink, Black : 16'
The Rigid bar comes with a water tight cable ending in a connector so I left that as is.
Then I gut the other connector off and connected 12 gauge wire to run the remainder of the distance (to the battery/ground).
That ran (inside the heat shrink) to the back to meet the backup light.
For the rear IPF light, I connected some loom (one of the prior wiring attempts and I didn't want to re-do it) from the light to its connector.
Then connected the other connector to 16 gauge wire for the remainder (battery/ground) and covered it with 3/8" heat shrink.
The 2x16 gauge backup wires, and the 2x12ga Rigid wires (each in their own heat shrink) were combined in the larger 3/4" heat shrink near the driver's rear rack mount and then run into the rear hatch:
I ran that down the side of the hatch weatherstripping, made a loop (so any water would drip off the low point instead of following the wire inside the truck) and ran it in behind the trim piece where I had cut a hole (and included a grommet).
Once inside the truck, I included a set of quick disconnects so I can unhook the wires (and roof rack) if I ever need to. The wires then trace their way up the driver's side to the battery.
[due to restrictions in the number of pics/post, the rest can be found in the next post]
Robert
- Thread starter
- #98
I also installed (finally) the Hellroaring dual battery controller switch in the cab. It comes with this bulky box that you're supposed to screw (attach) somewhere.
Well, I cut that open and installed it into one of the blanks in the a/c console.
In this last pic, you can also see that I relocated the rear heater switch from the factory console here. (Now that I have a Tuffy, there's no place for the original switch). I also removed the power antenna switch, as I have installed the Wagongear antenna.
My favorite addition. The 12voltguy.com winch panel that replaces my ashtray. Custom made for me, now he's offering it to all FJ62 owners. Screws right into where the ashtray existed. Wires directly to the winch (all wiring and connectors provided). Now I can either winch from the cab, or with the remote.
Finally, I took the blanks out of the left side of the steering wheel (adjacent the dimmer switch) and put in some Carling mounts. I know they're not flush, that's because the metal angles out and the Carling switches are larger than the factory toyota ones. So it's not as nice as I'd like it to be, but it'll be a great place for all my light switches. Next thing is to wire up the backup light, Rigid (LED) light, and IPF fog light switches here.
That's it for now. Final switch pics and info coming w/i the next week. Then it should be going back to Mudrack to fix the carpet. I'm getting new panels from Wagongear to accommodate the new rear seatbelts, and we're done!
Well, I cut that open and installed it into one of the blanks in the a/c console.
In this last pic, you can also see that I relocated the rear heater switch from the factory console here. (Now that I have a Tuffy, there's no place for the original switch). I also removed the power antenna switch, as I have installed the Wagongear antenna.
My favorite addition. The 12voltguy.com winch panel that replaces my ashtray. Custom made for me, now he's offering it to all FJ62 owners. Screws right into where the ashtray existed. Wires directly to the winch (all wiring and connectors provided). Now I can either winch from the cab, or with the remote.
Finally, I took the blanks out of the left side of the steering wheel (adjacent the dimmer switch) and put in some Carling mounts. I know they're not flush, that's because the metal angles out and the Carling switches are larger than the factory toyota ones. So it's not as nice as I'd like it to be, but it'll be a great place for all my light switches. Next thing is to wire up the backup light, Rigid (LED) light, and IPF fog light switches here.
That's it for now. Final switch pics and info coming w/i the next week. Then it should be going back to Mudrack to fix the carpet. I'm getting new panels from Wagongear to accommodate the new rear seatbelts, and we're done!
- Joined
- Mar 24, 2010
- Threads
- 23
- Messages
- 452
- Location
- Sydney, Australia
- Website
- www.gorillaindustries.com.au
Amazing! Love the colour combo!
you forgot to test the light bar.can't wait to see the look on your neighbors face.take a picof that too.