40th Anniversary Reconditioning Project (1 Viewer)

Joined
Jan 31, 2019
Messages
17
Location
Bainbridge Island WA
I have owned a 40th Anniversary for the past 10 years and it has become an essential part of our family.

Having watched many build threads here over the years, I have finally decided to take the plunge and take our 140,000 mile LandCruiser (Special Edition #4110) back to something closer to "original" vs. building a more off-road ready rig.

The benefit of going this approach is that it can still be comfortably driven by everyone in my family - and yes this includes my wife. May sound crazy but I have found that the secret to having "classic" cars around is to have something that more than just one person likes to drive.

The Citadel build was incredible. I know many of us lived through his seemingly unlimited energy, patience, and budget as he made a truly magical truck out of his 40th anniversary. And then sold it.

My plan is inspired by his, but it doesn't go as far. I welcome your thoughts on what I plan to do, even though I do recognize up front that this may seem a bit lightweight for most of this forum.

My driving principle is: what if it was 1997 and I had could buy this truck new? What would I do to it then. I probably wouldn't replace everything on it. I'd probably drive it and have fun with what Toyota built. My wife could drive it to the grocery store AND we could take it up into the mountains onto steep dirt roads and camp in the wilderness. It wouldn't need much other than what it had.

Put simply: We have a beloved 40th Land Cruiser and we want to recondition it, make it like it was when it rolled off the line but with various upgrades that make sense. We are not interested in making an offroad behemoth, but rather a fantastic car for driving around.

With that in mind, I am going to try to do a similar build thread as citadel for my own 40th Anniversary. I will post as many photos as I can as we go.

I bring the truck in on February 25 to begin the disassembly and paint prep.

Will report back.

Meanwhile, here is my plan along with some rough cost estimates for various parts. I don't want to guess at the all in cost at this point. I do feel confident that it will cost less than buying a new LandCruiser, RangerRover, or even fully equipped 2019 4Runner - and give me 10 more years with way more joy in ownership.

So here is my plan to make a new old LandCruiser.



Paint Prep
(estimated costs 10-15K including paint)

Remove windshield, windows, emblems, body moldings, latches, cowl, door handles, antenna, etc.

I have a new set of the right color 40th anniversary emblems (grill, rear hatch, antenna nut). Except of course for the 40th Anniversary Edition raised emblem and decal. I have actually printed and die cut new decals to replace the "th Anniversary Edition". I am currently working with someone to try to effectively match the 40 through a couple of processes (3D printing didn't work particularly well).


Glass
(Estimated $375)

Replace windshield (it has cracks) – HUGE GOAL IS AN OEM windshield

Unlike many, I like the bronze tint and want to keep it "as is".

I will try not to replace sunroof, passenger doors, rear hatch and liftgate glass (to keep factory bronze tint)

If the sunroof does need to be to be replaced, do everything possible not to break the inner trim. Learned that from citadel.


Body Work and Paint

Remove fender flares and other necessary disassembly

The door handle gaskets are no longer available so we need to make sure we dont damage them. Another lesson from citadel's build.

Repaint car factory Sage color

Colormatched flare gaskets are apparently still available.


Front Bumper
Replace front bumper - want what I think is called the ARB commercial bulbar with Warn M8 (~$2000 for both)


Rear Bumper

Keep rear bumper as is, repaint

Odd as it seems, for max visibility, we will keep the spare tire stored underneath the car. This is one of those things that most people wouldn't do. We could perhaps change this later, but for now we are not doing a different bumper with swing outs.


Existing Hitch Assembly

Remove, repaint (or replace if absolutely necessary)


Roof Rack and Accessories

Add roof rack – ARB Deluxe Roof Rack $1500

Slightly debating the best roof rack. We ski a lot and what would be ideal is something covered like a Thule box. I have not found something that seems like the best combination of "big rack" for when you need it and "covered box" for when you need that.



Winch

Warn M8000S Synthetic Winch

Interior Winch Controls (not sure how strongly we need interior controls)

You may question a winch given the rest of the simple "non-offroad build" but given the ski roads and places the family does go, there have been multiple times when a winch would have been essential for me and I wish I had had one for my less intelligent fellow drivers.


Grill

Will keep grill and replace emblem with new OEM black pearl emblem I already have

Nets

Will tighten up nets on back of seats per the tutorial on the site


Window Runs

Replace window runs for perfectly smooth windows.
I don't trust myself to do this, and I estimate $700

Interior Lights

Replace dash lights not LED (ie D, 2, 1, etc.) where needed. Don't want to deal with bigger changes than just changing the bulbs where needed. This should buy me another 100K miles vs. futzing with LEDs


Rear Wiper

Replace motor and blade


Mirrors

Repaint and fix jiggly mirror issue OR replace mirror with working mirror


Engine

This is the biggest unknown. I do not want to replace the engine, ideally. Last compression/leak down showed no need at all for rebuild let alone replacement.

I will adjust my plan here once I really get into it.

At minimum I would do a "everything but" in the engine compartment: replace all radiator hoses and fittings, steering pump, o-ring, metal gasket and all the associated hoses, replace any other \ “obvious” and easy issues within the engine compartment, without a rebuild


Suspension

$800 – ARB Old Man Emu (stock height spring). This is another different choice than most rebuilds. By using the stock height spring, the lift will be just under 3/4 inch. This is in part because I don't truly need this rig for overlanding AND because it makes it easier to use as a family vehicle.


Wheels

estimate $100 a wheel

Sandblast and powder coat to original

Have been debating this decision - might wish to get all black wheels rather than reusing the original.

Having trouble finding just the right simple wheel in just the right size.


Seats

estimate $1100 leather + 7 hours of labor etc.

New leather and seat cushions for front

New leather for rear

considering Katzkin

I will not replace 3rd row seats

Seat cushions available (LandCruiser Heaven, other places)


Carpet

New OEM Oak Carpet set, if it can be found, or close aftermarket

$300


Floor Mats

Add Weather Tech set – Tan front and rear

I have the original mats, untouched, if I plan to reuse them, which I probably won't.


Seat Belts

This one is killing me.

Some folks have told me they are willing to Disassemble, clean, and where needed rebuild seat belts to maintain original color.

Other folks said "under no circumstances" will they open and mess with the seatbelt.

I will see how it goes.

I would do anything for a reliable tutorial on how I could, myself, open up the seatbelts that I have, clean or replace whatever needs to be cleaned up, and put them back together. I have searched for years for a pair of front seatbelts in the 40th anniversary color but no luck.

I don't want to replace with gray but I will if I absolutely have to.


Rear Hatch

Replace or repair lower hinges


Sound Deadener

I liked Sound Deadener Showdown (floors, doors, quarters, tailgate) – and all that citadel liked about it - the CLD tiles; CCF decoupler on top of CLD, Mass Loaded Vinyl on top of CCF. I will not needed in headliner – as I assume not replacing headliner. My headliner and dash are in effectively perfect condition.

However, around these parts, the more common than Sound Deadener Showdown solution is Cascade Audio's system for $2000.

Both seem about the same for my purposes.

Will make that decision soon.


Audio

Another thing that i realize most people do but we do not want to do is to replace CD head unit. Here's why:

- We actually have a new head unit such that, if the one in there failed, it would be relatively easy to put a new one in.
- We like listening to tapes still sometimes (children of the 80s)
- We like the original look and we are used to it.

Speaker replacement is so hard, will do later if ever. I have watched so many build videos, it all seems like a lot of work for little gain if you don't replace the head unit. Perhaps I will just repalce the front speakers one of these days but only if I can just reuse the grills.

Would like to find a way to add bluetooth simply, invisibly. Ideally not something that plugs into a cigar lighter.


Considering:

ARB Front and Rear Lockers

OEM Factory Locker Knob to control lockers

Considered but not doing:

Replacing headlights with HID or LED

Replacing backup lights with LED

Front and rear speakers (but not dash or headliner speakers)

Short Bus front LED Light bar

4x4Labs rear bumper with Ladder

Don't need:

Stainless Extended Brake Lines

Headliner

Sliders (unless there is absolutely no way to keep the current side steps)
 
Joined
Jun 18, 2018
Messages
106
Location
Tn
Exciting, we need another citadel-like build thread on mud!

I just went through a pretty similiar process over about 7 months, although I was much less concerned with keeping it stock-like. I addressed pretty much everything in your list, although I haven’t replaced glass yet. I do plan to replace my rear glass with clear and then tint the front/rear to match (like citadel did) at some point, but not a high priority.

I did most of the things in your “considering but not doing” category and my recommendation would be to give the depo/hid retrofit another chance, that’s one of my favorite mods and really enhances safety when driving at night. I did the conversion myself (which you may not feel comfortable with) and had about $600 in it. I’d buget $900+ if you are paying someone to do it.

I’d also recommend adding heat to the front seats, it’s really not much additional effort if you are having them recovered anyway,

I personally couldn’t FATHOM putting this much effort into the truck and keeping the 1997 stereo, but whatever floats your boat. :)

Feel free to PM me if you want any details on what I did and what things cost. I will just say that it will be quite expensive to do what you want to do, and you’ll never get your money back, but if you love the truck and have the cash then you’ll end up with a really unique and reliable truck.

 

davidp14

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Staunton, VA
thisthreadisuselesswithoutpichers.jpg


Seriously, sounds like a great build, But we need pics.
 

MScruiser

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Tag. I need to rebuild my seatbelts too, and am interested in seeing your solution.
 
Joined
Jul 17, 2018
Messages
65
Location
CT USA
Love the vehicle, the goal and the inspiration! Doing the same with mine currently, more or less.

Food for thought, the ‘18 TRD Pro wheels perfectly fit the LC80, sans the lug cap and look awesome.

LED reverse lights are pretty dope... just saying ;)
 
Joined
Jan 31, 2019
Messages
17
Location
Bainbridge Island WA
I appreciate the responses. First of all - photos. I meant to take and upload some photos when I started the thread. But then it snowed, and I took the truck up to the top of Hurricane Ridge in the Olympics, and it's too cold to clean the beast. So here are some photos of my 40th Edition as it sits now.

Exterior.jpg


Mileage.jpg


Wheel.jpg


SeatBelt.jpg


Dash.jpg
 
Joined
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Messages
17
Location
Bainbridge Island WA
And here is another view of the exterior and a few other points of interest. Its not in bad shape. I have considered the possibility that it doesn't need new paint, and could be detailed/buffed to remove oxidation. Because of the snow I didn't get good photos of the hood or roof but it doesn't have the problems some LC's have there. You can also see that there is a lot of green growth under the sunroof faring, which will be removed and not replaced. When this snow melts here in the Pacific Northwest, I will take much better photos of the car - both to post here and so I have a solid set of before/afters for the work we're about to do.

Exterior - ALT.jpg


Sunroof.jpg


Rear Seats.jpg


NO 110 alt.jpg


Nets.jpg
 
Joined
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Messages
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Location
Bainbridge Island WA
Tag. I need to rebuild my seatbelts too, and am interested in seeing your solution.

I have been looking into this company:
Safety Restore in Westfield, Mass


Then there is this, not a perfect match, but better than grey:
Ebay UK tan seatbelts

Do you have any thoughts on either of these options? My belts are not in bad shape, they simply don't retract (which then leads to them getting slightly more frayed than they would normally)
 

MScruiser

obsessive-compulsive oppositional-defiant wise-ass
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Messages
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I have been looking into this company:
Safety Restore in Westfield, Mass


Then there is this, not a perfect match, but better than grey:
Ebay UK tan seatbelts

Do you have any thoughts on either of these options? My belts are not in bad shape, they simply don't retract (which then leads to them getting slightly more frayed than they would normally)
I actually re-wound my driver side seat belt this morning. It was around a 15 minute job. Definitely an improvement. May try cleaning up the mechanism, or adding some ultralight oil.
 
Joined
Jan 31, 2019
Messages
17
Location
Bainbridge Island WA
Love the vehicle, the goal and the inspiration! Doing the same with mine currently, more or less.

Food for thought, the ‘18 TRD Pro wheels perfectly fit the LC80, sans the lug cap and look awesome.

LED reverse lights are pretty dope... just saying ;)
Do you have any leads on LED reverse lights that you like? I guess I worry that there will be too much in the way of extra transformers, etc. but perhaps I am overthinking it.
 
Joined
Jan 31, 2019
Messages
17
Location
Bainbridge Island WA
Love the vehicle, the goal and the inspiration! Doing the same with mine currently, more or less.

Food for thought, the ‘18 TRD Pro wheels perfectly fit the LC80, sans the lug cap and look awesome.

LED reverse lights are pretty dope... just saying ;)
Also I looked up those wheels. I have to admit, they look amazing. Food for thought.

TRD on 80.jpg
 
Joined
Jan 31, 2019
Messages
17
Location
Bainbridge Island WA
Exciting, we need another citadel-like build thread on mud!

I just went through a pretty similiar process over about 7 months, although I was much less concerned with keeping it stock-like. I addressed pretty much everything in your list, although I haven’t replaced glass yet. I do plan to replace my rear glass with clear and then tint the front/rear to match (like citadel did) at some point, but not a high priority.

I did most of the things in your “considering but not doing” category and my recommendation would be to give the depo/hid retrofit another chance, that’s one of my favorite mods and really enhances safety when driving at night. I did the conversion myself (which you may not feel comfortable with) and had about $600 in it. I’d buget $900+ if you are paying someone to do it.

I’d also recommend adding heat to the front seats, it’s really not much additional effort if you are having them recovered anyway,

I personally couldn’t FATHOM putting this much effort into the truck and keeping the 1997 stereo, but whatever floats your boat. :)

Feel free to PM me if you want any details on what I did and what things cost. I will just say that it will be quite expensive to do what you want to do, and you’ll never get your money back, but if you love the truck and have the cash then you’ll end up with a really unique and reliable truck.

Thank you for the detailed reply.

I keep going back and forth on the HID's. My worry is that the ballasts will take up too much room in the engine bay, and become multiple new points of failure. But of course I love the look. If it was more "plug and play" I would do it in a moment. I just wonder (and can't quite figure out) how much work they are once they've been installed. Citadel had his carefully custom-made. I wonder if there is a more "off the shelf" HID product out there.

You are probably right about the radio. I am curious what you did. I guess I could consider a neat Apple CarPlay replacement that pairs with iPhones, even if I lose the CD ability.

I will PM you some other questions since I think you have been down the exact road.
 
Joined
Jan 31, 2019
Messages
17
Location
Bainbridge Island WA
Exciting, we need another citadel-like build thread on mud!

I just went through a pretty similiar process over about 7 months, although I was much less concerned with keeping it stock-like. I addressed pretty much everything in your list, although I haven’t replaced glass yet. I do plan to replace my rear glass with clear and then tint the front/rear to match (like citadel did) at some point, but not a high priority.

I did most of the things in your “considering but not doing” category and my recommendation would be to give the depo/hid retrofit another chance, that’s one of my favorite mods and really enhances safety when driving at night. I did the conversion myself (which you may not feel comfortable with) and had about $600 in it. I’d buget $900+ if you are paying someone to do it.

I’d also recommend adding heat to the front seats, it’s really not much additional effort if you are having them recovered anyway,

I personally couldn’t FATHOM putting this much effort into the truck and keeping the 1997 stereo, but whatever floats your boat. :)

Feel free to PM me if you want any details on what I did and what things cost. I will just say that it will be quite expensive to do what you want to do, and you’ll never get your money back, but if you love the truck and have the cash then you’ll end up with a really unique and reliable truck.

Oh and, I forgot to add to my thread that I was planning to add the heated seats since it does seem relatively easy and trouble free to install.
 
Joined
Jun 18, 2018
Messages
106
Location
Tn
Thank you for the detailed reply.

I keep going back and forth on the HID's. My worry is that the ballasts will take up too much room in the engine bay, and become multiple new points of failure. But of course I love the look. If it was more "plug and play" I would do it in a moment. I just wonder (and can't quite figure out) how much work they are once they've been installed. Citadel had his carefully custom-made. I wonder if there is a more "off the shelf" HID product out there.

You are probably right about the radio. I am curious what you did. I guess I could consider a neat Apple CarPlay replacement that pairs with iPhones, even if I lose the CD ability.

I will PM you some other questions since I think you have been down the exact road.

Engine bay room consumption is pretty minor. The ballasts are about the size of a pack of cigarettes and there will be two relays as part of the harness. I’d say it’s a solid 2-3 banana job considering opening up the depos + electrical, but worth the effort if you do some reading first and take your time.

Stereo: Pioneer double din with wireless carplay, slim CDT 6.5” coax front and rear (I may eventually replace the fronts with something better).. the key with speakers IMO is to stay under 2.5” deep, ideally more like 2 5/16”. I couldn’t go with anything deeper and get the front doors to close. You will need to buy or fab spacers to clear the window run, and you’ll need to trim sheetmetal on the rear doors. Kind of a PITA for what is a simple job on most cars. I put a 5 channel Alpine amp under the driver’s seat and a 10” subwoofer in the back, which will eventually be put in either a fiberglass enclosure in the passenger rear compartment or worked into custom drawers.

Because moar pics - cool fog this morning:

cruiser_feb19.jpg
 

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