40 series general tech and classifieds

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It seems as if it’s pretty dang complete. And it’s the color my wife wants.
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Some engine bay pictures.
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Way way way too many variables to predict

I know it’s a loaded question. Is $15k reasonable? I’m assuming after sitting so long I would rebuild engine, transmission, transfer case, brakes, diffs.......
 
Hey Cottonland,

I went to Ole Miss and have been following your clubhouse for years. Y’all have a great community here.

So I found this 40 in a field near me in Idaho
It’s looks like the most recent tags were 2005.
What is realistic to be able to get this driveable? I’m not looking for a restoration but kind of like what @wngrog has been doing. Preserve the patina and get it mechanically sound. I am a novice mechanic but have a good Toyota guy here. View attachment 2171725View attachment 2171726View attachment 2171727View attachment 2171729

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You can spend as much as you’re willing to. Without knowing specifics is hard to tell how much you will spend getting it going. Do you know why it was sent out to pasture? Does engine turn over? Does it roll? Does it steer? Clutch Brake pedals operational? Seat frames rusted out? Fluids full? Rust around tire carrier looks like it’s all the way through.
 
Let’s not forget the Downey adapter to flex boot to 97-2004 f150 k&n air filter...
 
If you want it, get it. It looks like a complete rig and like @wngrog figure the rest out as you go. If the Mrs is in, then pull the trigger and dont look back.
 
$15,000 is way way high though. If you have $15,000 to spend you can get a much bigger head start than this. The back end will cost a ton even if the drivetrain is good. Replacing all the wear items and such.

I’d say $3000 tops and you are looking at another 5-6,000 just in parts to get it going with a running and shifting drivetrain

If you are paying someone to add those parts, double the price.
 
$15,000 is way way high though. If you have $15,000 to spend you can get a much bigger head start than this. The back end will cost a ton even if the drivetrain is good. Replacing all the wear items and such.

I’d say $3000 tops and you are looking at another 5-6,000 just in parts to get it going with a running and shifting drivetrain

If you are paying someone to add those parts, double the price.


I could be wrong, but I think he meant $15k all in after getting it up to whatever spec he is after. That alone is a huge variable, let alone whatever is actually wrong with it.

Fresh fuel and a battery and see what works and what doesn't. You'll know pretty quick.
 
Hey Cottonland,

I went to Ole Miss and have been following your clubhouse for years. Y’all have a great community here.

So I found this 40 in a field near me in Idaho
It’s looks like the most recent tags were 2005.
What is realistic to be able to get this driveable? I’m not looking for a restoration but kind of like what @wngrog has been doing. Preserve the patina and get it mechanically sound. I am a novice mechanic but have a good Toyota guy here. View attachment 2171725View attachment 2171726View attachment 2171727View attachment 2171729

View attachment 2171728


I feel like that just depends on how much time/money you have to put into it. I have seen worse condition cars come back than that. $15K is kinda crazy for this one though. You can get a running and driving one with seats and stuff for $15K.
 
I’m sorry I meant $15k to get it up and running. While paying someone else to do most of the work.

I don’t think I’d go higher than $2k to buy it as is.
 
The formula to pay someone to do it is if parts cost $1000 then figure $1000 in labor.

some things go higher some lower but that ratio is usually consistent.

This truck began as a $5000 truck and ended close to $30,000

No top. 3 speed.

I think the biggest issue will be if you can turn it over and shift the gears. If that is the case you can take it slow and do a piece at a time.

I’d start learning how to do this stuff. It’s fun

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The formula to pay someone to do it is if parts cost $1000 then figure $1000 in labor.

some things go higher some lower but that ratio is usually consistent.

This truck began as a $5000 truck and ended close to $30,000

No top. 3 speed.

I think the biggest issue will be if you can turn it over and shift the gears. If that is the case you can take it slow and do a piece at a time.

I’d start learning how to do this stuff. It’s fun

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thanks for the insight. This is helpful to know. We are going to buy a 40 sometime this year. Just not sure if its this one in the field or if something else pops up. thanks to all for the help. I will keep this thread updated.
 
How are you liking those electric power steering conversions? Plenty strong enough for bigger tires?

This is the first electric PS I’ve done - it is more than enough for these 33s. It has a power dial and I’ve got it on 25%. With all new TREs and rebuilt center arm, this is TIGHT.

This is what I’d recommend 100% going forward. Fawk leaky mini truck boxes, Saginaw pumps, and squeaky belts! I love it.

Also, I’d written this motor off as low compression and weak during the initial test drive, but the Sniper and new DUI dizzy woke this truck TF up. Damn. Twice as fast, easily. It is an entirely new animal.
 
H55 with 3.0 split case gears is your best bet for what you want to do with this truck. Save your pennies and do it right

Currently saving pennies and trying to figure out which path to go. Swapping in a vortec is an option too and keeping the 4 speed. The vortec won’t mind cruising along at 3,500 rpm at all.
 
Quick question, have you checked Fluid level of transmission or tried changing fluid from maybe a conventional 90w to synthetic? Might be cheap band aid or help prolong things.

Or swap to another known good 4 speed and have cheaper fix.....

Again, trying to save money and also not spiral down the change this or that trail, then end up changing 15 things associated to initial change item.
 
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