Yeah that’s the only thing holding me back from 40s. I think the 37s are as big as I can go on my current axle setup without breaking a bunch of stuff.
40 series general tech and classifieds
- Thread starter SHUSH
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Yeah that’s the only thing holding me back from 40s. I think the 37s are as big as I can go on my current axle setup without breaking a bunch of stuff.
Will need the new basket from 4+ for the yeti. An old school Coleman metal cooler fits great.
Ah damn it. Might just get the smaller yeti instead.
40 Series Sniper install I’m finishing up. I bent up some hard lines to mimic to stock fuel lines.
This started out as a simple job on a super clean truck, but ended up turning into a full-on turd polishing session once I started peeling back the onion. Everything was FUBAR’d.
Also got an electric PS conversion and lift, among other things.
This started out as a simple job on a super clean truck, but ended up turning into a full-on turd polishing session once I started peeling back the onion. Everything was FUBAR’d.
Also got an electric PS conversion and lift, among other things.
Looks factory AF
How are you liking those electric power steering conversions? Plenty strong enough for bigger tires?
So in an effort to look at my shifter linkage for my T case, to see if that’s why I’m popping out of gear in low I found two things, that I was hoping to see if anyone had seen before. I’m used to mini truck cases where the shifter goes straight into the case.
So the first thing is that this metal piece seems to be a little bent.
I saw another post here on mud where dudes metal tab was bent way worse. Is this normal?
Also I found this a little more forward on the linkage. Right above the front output of the case, where the u joints on the drive shaft are. It looks like the bolt should be run through this little hole and the nut securing the shifter to the metal tab. Is this how it needs to be mounted up? Not really sure what that tab is for, but it’s like right next to the shifter linkage and not being used.
Anyone have experience with twin sticks and the Orion? It could eliminate all of this linkage stuff. Might solve the popping out of gear
So the first thing is that this metal piece seems to be a little bent.
I saw another post here on mud where dudes metal tab was bent way worse. Is this normal?
Also I found this a little more forward on the linkage. Right above the front output of the case, where the u joints on the drive shaft are. It looks like the bolt should be run through this little hole and the nut securing the shifter to the metal tab. Is this how it needs to be mounted up? Not really sure what that tab is for, but it’s like right next to the shifter linkage and not being used.
Anyone have experience with twin sticks and the Orion? It could eliminate all of this linkage stuff. Might solve the popping out of gear
Last edited:
Orion’s pop out of gear. They are notorious for doing it.
Your bracket is a bit tweaked but that’s not it.
The other bracket that is not bolted down keeps the truck from being out into low range while in 2wd. Most people toss those so it’s not important.
Use a bungee to keep it in low and roll on.
Your bracket is a bit tweaked but that’s not it.
The other bracket that is not bolted down keeps the truck from being out into low range while in 2wd. Most people toss those so it’s not important.
Use a bungee to keep it in low and roll on.
I believe that 40s as a whole are known to pop out of low. I've heard of stock trucks popping out of gear. My rockbox jumps out of gear. It's just a thing. Like Grogan said, bungee it or use something else to hold it in gear and go roll out
Stock 40s popping out is usually because your rubber inner tcase shifter boot is warped and won’t let the shifter stay in place. I’ve never had an issue with that unless it was something making it happen like worn out motor mounts or interference
Gotcha, I know of a couple that have kicked out in very inopportune times. Maybe from bad mount. My rock box kicks out of low, but it's because of the cut of the gears and the way they load up. Bungee cord barely holds it when its loaded up on a climb, I'm trying to sort out something more robust for it.
Yes. Orions pop out. It took a few years for mine, but it does it too. Double check your driver side motor mount is not broken. If it is broken, especially in 4L, the engine torques the driver side to lift up which could push the Orion shifter to neutral.
Oooh! good to know, Ill check it out when I get home. That makes a lot of sense, because when im in 4L the shifter is pretty close to the side of the hole in the floor. Thanks Lash!
Disconnect the linkage from the case and give 'er a whirl. Won't make it disengage if its not connected.
If the Orion is like the rock box, it will still pop out. The way the gears are cut when they are under load the force pushes them out instead of drawing them in.
At least you can bungee it in now, if you disconnect it, you're super screwed if it pops oit
At least you can bungee it in now, if you disconnect it, you're super screwed if it pops oit
Hey Cottonland,
I went to Ole Miss and have been following your clubhouse for years. Y’all have a great community here.
So I found this 40 in a field near me in Idaho
It’s looks like the most recent tags were 2005.
What is realistic to be able to get this driveable? I’m not looking for a restoration but kind of like what @wngrog has been doing. Preserve the patina and get it mechanically sound. I am a novice mechanic but have a good Toyota guy here.
I went to Ole Miss and have been following your clubhouse for years. Y’all have a great community here.
So I found this 40 in a field near me in Idaho
It’s looks like the most recent tags were 2005.
What is realistic to be able to get this driveable? I’m not looking for a restoration but kind of like what @wngrog has been doing. Preserve the patina and get it mechanically sound. I am a novice mechanic but have a good Toyota guy here.