40 series general tech and classifieds

[fountainhead]

No smog controls on that carb...assuming he still wants to keep it smog'd.

 

[dnp]

No smog controls on that carb...assuming he still wants to keep it smog'd.

Thanks Cam, but like JttmfT mentioned, that's a non-smogged carb and, ironically, the in-place smog system is one of the important characteristics of this truck.....at least that's what I'm thinking. Under the hood, I can't find a single item that's missing. Granted, it still needs to be cleaned up, some items repainted, etc., but as far as I can tell, it's all still there (and also inside and underneath). For that reason, I'm thinking the best course of action is to have this smog carb rebuilt.

Thanks for the heads up, though.

 

[ntsaint]

Trying to turn the 40 over, first time in 3-4 months. Turns over fine but won't fire. Pulled a plug, no spark. Has an electronic ignition. Where do I start to troubleshoot that?

 

[wct49]

Trying to turn the 40 over, first time in 3-4 months. Turns over fine but won't fire. Pulled a plug, no spark. Has an electronic ignition. Where do I start to troubleshoot that?

coil? coil wire?

and put on the right pants....

 

[ntsaint]

Ha. Going thru all that now was just wondering if there was a shortcut to isolating the issue.

 

[wngrog]

Just don't get battery acid next to your sweet new Kuhl Radikls

 

[ntsaint]

I got my old pantz on...

Fuel delivery is fine. Has to be the electronic dizzy somewhere.

 

[fountainhead]

Ha. Going thru all that now was just wondering if there was a shortcut to isolating the issue.

Pull the high voltage spark wire from the center post of the distributor and hold it 1/4 inch from the engine block using some insulated handle pliers.
Have someone else crank the engine while you hold the wire and look for spark.
If there is no spark, then run a temporary wire from the + post of the battery to the + side of the coil.
Hold the spark wire next to the block and have someone crank the engine again.
If it sparks with the jumper wire in place and not without it, then the power wire from the key to the coil + is bad.
If no spark either way, then disconnect the wires at the - side of the coil and then momentarily ground the - post of the coil with a second temporary jumper and look for spark...again, at the high voltage spark wire while holding it next to the block.
If no spark, then the coil is bad.
If there is a spark, then the ignitor is not getting the job done..either it is bad or it is not connected properly.

 

[Nottajeep]

Is your coil connector plugged in?

I have failed to do this and seen the same issue

 

[ntsaint]

This is an HEI style electronic distributor bought from TPI, just for the record. There is no coil.

I did pull the cap last night and the rotor is turning when I try to start it. But I'm getting no spark at the plugs.

Obviously i know sh*t about all this.

 

[fountainhead]

Oh...scratch all that s*** I typed above, then.

(You have a coil...it's just built into that huge HEI distributor cap.)

 

[ntsaint]

Sorry JT.

I guess i'm gonna pull it and have it tested. It's getting solid power. It's worked like a champ for the past year tho.

 

[MEMCruiser]

Is this still for sale?

 

[ntsaint]

not at the moment

Think i have the title thing figured out...finally (again)

 

[77TLCFJ40]

Could this be a fusible link issue?

 

[offr0adlim0]

Check for power at the distributor with the key on. You need 12V

 

[77TLCFJ40]

Anyone have an early 40 license plate mount? It's the single light version. I have the correct light, but need the mount. Doesn't have to be nice, just no rust holes. It's for the M416. Thanks

 

[ntsaint]

Check for power at the distributor with the key on. You need 12V

Gonna check with a meter for sure, but would the rotor turn without 12V?

 

[jynx]

Rotor runs off cam gear, no electricity needed.

 

[ntsaint]

Like i said, i know sh*t.

Thanks