3L Diesel - intermittent rattling. Need Help! (1 Viewer)

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Eastern Idaho
So I'll start this off with a photo.
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Motor sludged up horribly. Worst I've seen. I haven't had the valve covers off this truck since I bought it, but last oil change was approx 3500 miles ago. Only about 120,000 km on the odometer.

Anyway it began making noise this weekend promoting me to investigate. The noise initially sounded like normal cold start and progressed to knocking/vibrating. I pulled my sump pan and valve covers, and everything looked tight. Went through the pan with a magnet, no metal bits to be found.

Flushed the gunk a few times with oil flush til top end looked clean, refilled with amsoil diesel 15w-40.

Vibration/knock is gone, however there is a "tapping" or "crackling" sound, which seems to happen intermittently. I couldn't film a good video of the sound. It can be heard while accelerating, then goes away after a few seconds. It sounds like top end noise to me, but I'm really not sure.

The weird thing is the sound is inconsistent. It's connected to engine RPM somehow but it is neither a constant sound nor always happening at a particular speed.

Any ideas? I'm stumped.
 
Have you considered an exhaust leak?
 
Have you considered an exhaust leak?
I have, in fact it does leak some exhaust by the transfer case. However, my gut feeling is that whatever it is relates to the 3500 miles or more I drove with an engine full of goop.

A few good flushes and new oil made a big difference in the engine noise. An exhaust leak would've remained unchanged.
 
Amy chance you can get a video? Diesels tend to make funny noises and judging by that sludge I'd say she's pretty neglected.
 
Uh oh haha. First thing I would do is check the valve lash. Definitely sounds mechanical.

I see the engine shakes a bit when revving up, bit of a stutter. It's *possible* you could have a faulty injector, they do sound pretty gnarly when they spray when/how they're not supposed to.

Hopefully you'll get some of the other guys to chime in.
 
Here is another video. Rattle/knock is worse after the engine is warm.



Note: depressing the clutch pedal stops the knock.

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Here is some diagnostic info from Gregory's Hilux repair manual. None of the noises seem to quite match up with my symptoms.
 
take a 17mm wrench and while it's running, crack each injector nozzle open. See if the noise goes away.
It's fine for diesel to get everywhere it's very hard to get it to ignite without compressing it.

Also get a long screwdriver and try to pinpoint where the knock is coming from. If it goes away when the clutch is pressed that is odd, listen around the bellhousing maybe.
 
says right there that end float on the crank can be isolated by depressing the clutch and is indicated by a sharp rap at idle ( seems to be what im hearing)
that says to me that your thrust washers need doing as per the diagnosis tech sheet there, #3 bearing apparently


and seriosly, what the hell happened to the oil OMG, is that water/oil/coolant contamination? never seen anything like that
 
and seriosly, what the hell happened to the oil OMG, is that water/oil/coolant contamination? never seen anything like that
No oil contamination that I can tell. Never been into the top end since purchase (this summer), so I can only assume I inherited that sludge.

What it reminds me of is when my buddy ran normal 5w30 in his Ford. Kinda had a similar look, wouldn't flow out of the pan etc. Who knows what happened to the hilux but it was probably on the other side of the pond.
 
No oil contamination that I can tell. Never been into the top end since purchase (this summer), so I can only assume I inherited that sludge.

What it reminds me of is when my buddy ran normal 5w30 in his Ford. Kinda had a similar look, wouldn't flow out of the pan etc. Who knows what happened to the hilux but it was probably on the other side of the pond.

Looks like someone put 7 litres of moly bearing grease into that motor instead of proper engine oil. Crazy, usually sludge doesn't look like that.

I can't imagine how hard it would be for the oil pump to pick that up and push it through the motor to the bearings. So I would agree with the above that thrust bearings and likely others are pretty hurting.

Maybe consider a rebuild before things get worse? It's possible block/head/crank/cam etc. are still ok, and it just needs new bearings throughout.
 
Maybe consider a rebuild before things get worse? It's possible block/head/crank/cam etc. are still ok, and it just needs new bearings throughout.
Northwest Toys LLC sells a master rebuild kit.. any recommendations for 3L rebuild kits?

Maybe something a little more robust than stock, for a turbo down the road?
 
When it comes to gaskets and seals for a rebuild, without doubt, go genuine. I think this is correct for your 3L.


(I post the link from Partsouq because they have a picture. I usually prefer Amayama for ordering parts as they can actually communicate before/after an order).

As per engine building procedures, you select the head gasket (there are differing thicknesses) once the engine is rebuilt and piston protrusion has been measured. And absolutely without doubt go with a genuine head gasket. No use saving a few dollars on these parts. Don't believe an engine builders claims that their packs are 'OEM quality' etc. They often come from Taiwan or Indonesia and are inferior to the genuine kits.
 
^^good advice
 
says right there that end float on the crank can be isolated by depressing the clutch and is indicated by a sharp rap at idle ( seems to be what im hearing)
that says to me that your thrust washers need doing as per the diagnosis tech sheet there, #3 bearing apparently


and seriosly, what the hell happened to the oil OMG, is that water/oil/coolant contamination? never seen anything like that
but i guess i should clarify....
i wasnt necessarily saying this IS the problem, just that it seems to fit what you are describing and what the diagnosis notes state.
verify of course....
 

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