Hi Guys, hopefully future FJ80 owner here. I'm looking at a 92' with close to 200K. The current owner is asking for $3.5k. The service records on the carfax are impressive. The bad, it is an 8 owner car and the AC is not working. I'm planning to go look at it and drive it. If I like it, I'll do a pre-purchase inspection. Depending on the outcome, I'll decide to buy it or not. Any advice on what to look at while checking it out will be greatly appreciated. Also, if there is a sticky on maintenance intervals that would also be very helpful. Thanks!
3FE Owners Check-In (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter alkaline747trio
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I would check if that AC has been converted (probably not). If it’s r12, converting it is relatively expensive and finding someone to recharge r12 can be tough depending on your location. Up to you on if ac is a dealbreaker, but you can use it to negotiate the price.
The rest is all straight forward. I’d pay attention to the interior. Trim pieces can be harder to find, and gives you an indication on how those 8 owners took care of the vehicle.
The rest is all straight forward. I’d pay attention to the interior. Trim pieces can be harder to find, and gives you an indication on how those 8 owners took care of the vehicle.
Thanks , Bryan. Any idea on how expensive it can be? I know it all depends on the market, but a number on what you've seen would at least give me some idea. Thanks again!
Check for rust, and like Bryan Smith says, interior bits and pieces are good indication of how well the truck is maintained.
Good luck
For some context here, a PO of the FJ80 I just purchased spent somewhere in the ballpark of $1500 for this conversion along with some other AC work. I don't know if that's standard, but that's what he paid. AC works great now, btw.
I'll echo what everyone else has said about rust and interior. 8 owners doesn't necessarily scare me on a 25 year old truck, but it does if they haven't taken good care of it. Drive it and listen to the engine and transmission. Make sure the CDL and low range work. I'd also check hoses (radiator and vacuum) and belts--they are not super expensive or difficult to replace IMO, so if they're old and crusty that good be a sign that POs neglected other maintenance.
One thing I haven't seen mentioned is wiring. This isn't FJ specific, but I always like on older cars to look for a relatively intact original wiring harness. Random splices and/or wiring "fixes" can be a real PITA if someone thing ever goes wrong and you have to track down any electrical gremlins.
Great advice guys! Belts were changed 70K miles ago in a Toyota dealer per the carfax... but that was 16 years ago. So those should be redone soon.
I read someone saying that a "clunk" in the transmission on these cars is normal.... doesn't sound very comforting. How true is this?
Thanks again!
Clunk is normal, but definitely check the drive flanges on the very outside of the front axle. They are a known weak point.
Thanks. I can tell this is a great community!
So I went and looked at the FJ80.....I fell in love.
Price: $3,500
The good: Minimum surface rust in the suspension - but literally zero on the frame and zero on the body that I could see, clean interior, no noises from the suspension, smooth transmission, decent amount of records in the truck (AWESOME carfax records on maintenance), extra clean knuckles, all electronics work, 4 low and cdl work (newbie question = it always run on 4H, right?), drove straight, and felt like it had the power it is supposed to have given her engine, has not reached 200K miles.
The owner (couple of months) seemed very honest and, quite frankly, he just thinks it is like any other old truck (as if it was an explorer). He admitted he has not done anything to it, not even an oil change. He has no issue with me doing a pre-purchase inspection and has agreed to meet Saturday.
The no-so-good: 8 owner truck, did not idle entirely smooth, I could hear a pulley (I think) while revving in parking, oil needs to be changed (oil cap was filthy), A/C blows slightly cold (but it could be my imagination/weather, since the owner thinks it does not work).
Questions: I'm aware that there are some good signs and bad. The bad signs (no smooth idling/pulley, I will let my mechanic inspect it and tell me what he thinks it is, but would like your valuable input before on the following:
(1) what could be causing the truck not to idle smooth;
(2) how rare is for this truck to have some rough idling?; and
(3) could it be just that it needs a tune-up and how much these typically cost?
Like I said, I fell in love with the truck, but I'm keeping myself in-check and know that I need to walk away if the risks are too much. I just want to make an informed decision, cause I was impressed by the overall condition of this 25 year-old truck, which does not look over 10 years old in terms of condition, and I do not want to walk away from a good truck for something that it is not so unusual and would not (typically) would require a significant investment.
Like I said, I'm doing a pre-purchase inspection but I would REALLY appreciate your input. Thanks, and be it with this truck or another, I'm really looking forward to joining this community.
Thanks!
Price: $3,500
The good: Minimum surface rust in the suspension - but literally zero on the frame and zero on the body that I could see, clean interior, no noises from the suspension, smooth transmission, decent amount of records in the truck (AWESOME carfax records on maintenance), extra clean knuckles, all electronics work, 4 low and cdl work (newbie question = it always run on 4H, right?), drove straight, and felt like it had the power it is supposed to have given her engine, has not reached 200K miles.
The owner (couple of months) seemed very honest and, quite frankly, he just thinks it is like any other old truck (as if it was an explorer). He admitted he has not done anything to it, not even an oil change. He has no issue with me doing a pre-purchase inspection and has agreed to meet Saturday.
The no-so-good: 8 owner truck, did not idle entirely smooth, I could hear a pulley (I think) while revving in parking, oil needs to be changed (oil cap was filthy), A/C blows slightly cold (but it could be my imagination/weather, since the owner thinks it does not work).
Questions: I'm aware that there are some good signs and bad. The bad signs (no smooth idling/pulley, I will let my mechanic inspect it and tell me what he thinks it is, but would like your valuable input before on the following:
(1) what could be causing the truck not to idle smooth;
(2) how rare is for this truck to have some rough idling?; and
(3) could it be just that it needs a tune-up and how much these typically cost?
Like I said, I fell in love with the truck, but I'm keeping myself in-check and know that I need to walk away if the risks are too much. I just want to make an informed decision, cause I was impressed by the overall condition of this 25 year-old truck, which does not look over 10 years old in terms of condition, and I do not want to walk away from a good truck for something that it is not so unusual and would not (typically) would require a significant investment.
Like I said, I'm doing a pre-purchase inspection but I would REALLY appreciate your input. Thanks, and be it with this truck or another, I'm really looking forward to joining this community.
Thanks!
The rough idle could be many things but I wouldn’t let it hold you back. If it seems to run well otherwise it’s probably not anything significant.
What’s your intended use and budget for baselining and ongoing maintenance? The purchase price sounds reasonable—not a steal, but reasonable. I would figure on spending at least $1,500 in baselining costs over the next couple of months if you do the work yourself. Tune up, fuel filters, hoses, radiator, water pump, addressing leaks, complete fluid exchanges, suspension (shocks, bushings), etc. etc. etc. It depends on if you’re OCD like the rest of us...
Additionally, it wouldn’t surprise me if you spent another $1,000 over the next few months. Also, how are the tires? That alone could set you back around $1,000...If this doesn’t scare you, then go buy the dang thing! It’s amazing how great of a vehicle you can get for around $5,000 all in with the 91-92 trucks.
Check out the FAQ and Slee Offroad’s buying guide. Lots of good info.
The rough idle could be many things but I wouldn’t let it hold you back. If it seems to run well otherwise it’s probably not anything significant.
What’s your intended use and budget for baselining and ongoing maintenance? The purchase price sounds reasonable—not a steal, but reasonable. I would figure on spending at least $1,500 in baselining costs over the next couple of months if you do the work yourself. Tune up, fuel filters, hoses, radiator, water pump, addressing leaks, complete fluid exchanges, suspension (shocks, bushings), etc. etc. etc. It depends on if you’re OCD like the rest of us...
If this doesn’t scare you, then go buy the dang thing! It’s amazing how great of a vehicle you can get for around $5,000 all in with the 91-92 trucks.
Check out the FAQ and Slee Offroad’s buying guide. Lots of good info.
Thanks Silver Star. Yes, the rough iddle is when in park. It is more of a shaking of the engine than a rough idle to be honest. Not the kind of shaking that appears that the car will stall. When in drive it does not do it.
I intend to use it as a daily driver (4.6 mile round trip), so I can garage my other vehicle. So I do have another vehicle that I can use if the FJ80 needs some down time, but my intention is to keep the other in the garage as much as possible. I expect to drive the FJ80 less than 3,000 miles a year, including Home Depot and Fishing trips.
The tires looked as if they have plenty of life in them.
Not scared about the estimated potential 2,500 in maintenance, unless these become a habit on a truck that will be driven less than 3,000 mikes a year. I'm hoping that is not the case.
Thanks for the great advice and will let you know what my mechanic says of it on Saturday!
I went through all the service records on the carfax. There are obviously others that do not show up, like the knuckles reconstruction, which the seller showed me an invoice for. It is a 1992 FJ80 with the original engine and transmission and it has 196K miles. Below is the list from the carfax ONLY. Please let me know if you see any big ticket items that would need immediate attention or something fishy (e.g., Spark plugs). Thanks!
1. Engine Valves Adjusted - 8/98 (91K); 8/01 (120K)
2. Spark Plugs Replaced - 8/98 (91K); 2/01 (118K); 8/01 (120K); 3/07 (150K)
3. Fuel Filter Replaced - 8/98 (91K); 2/01 (118K); 8/01 (120K)
4. Fuel Injection System Flushed/Serviced - 8/98 (91K); 2/01 (118K)
5. Air Filter Replaced - 2/01 (118K)
6. Induction System Serviced - 5/06 (191.5K)
7. Water Pump Replaced - 6/07 (160K)
8. Thermostat Replaced - 9/00 (116K)
9. PCV Valve Replaced - 8/01 (120K)
10. AC Recharged - 10/16 (193K)
11. Antifreeze/Coolant Flushed/Changed 2/01 (118K); 6/07 (160k)
12. Transmission Serviced/Flushed - 2/01 (118K); 8/01 (120K)
13. Transfer Case Flushed/Serviced - 8/98 (91K); 2/01 (118K); 8/01 (120K)
14. Front Brake Pads - 8/98 (91K); 1/00 (110K); 2/01 (118K); 1/02 (124.5K)
15. Rear Brakes Serviced/Adjusted - 8/98 (91K); 1/02 (124.5K)
16. Brake Lines Replaced - 2/16 (190K)
17. Brake Fluid Flushed/Changed - 1/00 (110k); 2/16 (190K)
18. Rear Differential Flushed/Serviced - 8/98 (91K); 2/01 (118K); 8/01 (120K)
19. Power Steering Fluid Flushed/Serviced - 1/00 (110k)
20. Wheel Alignment - 8/98 (91K); 1/02 (124.5K)
21. Steering/Suspension Lubricated - 8/98 (91K); 2/01 (118K)
22. Front Wheel Bearings/Hubs Replaced - 1/02 (124.5K)
23. Front Shocks - 1/02 (124.5K)
24. Exhaust Pipe and Seal Replaced - 10/16 (193K)
25. Battery Replaced - 2/01 (118K); 12/2016 (193.5K)
26. Alternator Replaced - 12/2016 (193.5K)
27. Drive Belts Replaced - 8/01 (120K)
28. Latest Oil Change 4/17 (194K)
1. Engine Valves Adjusted - 8/98 (91K); 8/01 (120K)
2. Spark Plugs Replaced - 8/98 (91K); 2/01 (118K); 8/01 (120K); 3/07 (150K)
3. Fuel Filter Replaced - 8/98 (91K); 2/01 (118K); 8/01 (120K)
4. Fuel Injection System Flushed/Serviced - 8/98 (91K); 2/01 (118K)
5. Air Filter Replaced - 2/01 (118K)
6. Induction System Serviced - 5/06 (191.5K)
7. Water Pump Replaced - 6/07 (160K)
8. Thermostat Replaced - 9/00 (116K)
9. PCV Valve Replaced - 8/01 (120K)
10. AC Recharged - 10/16 (193K)
11. Antifreeze/Coolant Flushed/Changed 2/01 (118K); 6/07 (160k)
12. Transmission Serviced/Flushed - 2/01 (118K); 8/01 (120K)
13. Transfer Case Flushed/Serviced - 8/98 (91K); 2/01 (118K); 8/01 (120K)
14. Front Brake Pads - 8/98 (91K); 1/00 (110K); 2/01 (118K); 1/02 (124.5K)
15. Rear Brakes Serviced/Adjusted - 8/98 (91K); 1/02 (124.5K)
16. Brake Lines Replaced - 2/16 (190K)
17. Brake Fluid Flushed/Changed - 1/00 (110k); 2/16 (190K)
18. Rear Differential Flushed/Serviced - 8/98 (91K); 2/01 (118K); 8/01 (120K)
19. Power Steering Fluid Flushed/Serviced - 1/00 (110k)
20. Wheel Alignment - 8/98 (91K); 1/02 (124.5K)
21. Steering/Suspension Lubricated - 8/98 (91K); 2/01 (118K)
22. Front Wheel Bearings/Hubs Replaced - 1/02 (124.5K)
23. Front Shocks - 1/02 (124.5K)
24. Exhaust Pipe and Seal Replaced - 10/16 (193K)
25. Battery Replaced - 2/01 (118K); 12/2016 (193.5K)
26. Alternator Replaced - 12/2016 (193.5K)
27. Drive Belts Replaced - 8/01 (120K)
28. Latest Oil Change 4/17 (194K)
Disregard this information. The PO just called me to cancel our pre-purchase inspection tomorrow at 8am....since he just sold it. I guess it was not for me. On to the next one.
Does anyone know where to find a decent radiator? I replaced mine with a chinese one from Amazon and it lasted about a year. Might as well do the water pump while it's out...
Did you read my posts earlier in this thread? I pretty much went into detail with links regarding all 3f-e radiator options I've found. I thought I found another aluminum one but now I believe it's the same as the ebay one.
What radiator exactly do you currently have that failed, and how did it fail?
Bottom line if you are too impatient to research: CSF or ebay aluminum radiator (ebay alu radiator quality, fitment, unknown). CSF may be unreliable in an FJ80 for some reason.
I don't remember the exact brand. From Amazon so probably a Spectra. The bottom plastic portion leaks from the seam where it meets up with the aluminum core. I did read the CSF is not all that reliable, but it sure is hard to find a decent alternative.
Edit: Rolled the dice and bought this one. Radiator PERFORMANCE RADIATOR 1469 fits 91-92 Toyota Land Cruiser | eBay
Last edited:
Found another one. 1991 FJ80, 235K. Two long term owners until 2014, and a 3 year owner after that. Truck's exterior is OK (5/10), with only one small rust spot in the hatch, but frame has practically no rust, knucles look great, shocks also, new tires, battery, and differentials and transfer case serviced in 2015. Transmission shifts well, with the ocasional clunk. My main concern is the longevity of the transmission.
My question: do these transmissions fail with practically no signs before or do they typically show signs and you can use different ATFs to extend its life? I'm aware the trasmission will likely break one day. I intend to use the vehicle daily, but less than 4K miles a year.
Please chime in. Thanks!
These things take like 16 quarts of transmission fluid. I think that's why they last so long. I wouldn't worry about it if it shifts fine. They are seriously over built. Like used in Japanese buses over built. If it clunks when you put it in driver or reverse, that's normal. If it clunks under acceleration something is funky.
I did hear a clunk at some point when it shifted. The guy said something about it having a "viscous coupling" that makes that sound as it develops some play throughout the years but that it is nothing unusual or that something is broken. Any further input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
You’ll have to learn to love the clunk. It’s part of the tranny. They rarely fail but when they do its usually because of heat. If you dont have an external fluid cooler you should get one. It’s required. Drain the pan and refill. These tranny’s were fastened to Diesel engines in other parts of the world. It’s a bus tranny mated to a tractor engine. Drive and enjoy. If it goes bad you can contact ACC in Atlanta. They have a guy that can rebuild them. If you have the cash you can order a valve body/torque converter or reconditioned tranny from Rodney at Wholesale Automatics in Australia. If its running now, take care of it and you’ll get. A lot out of the tranny. Good luck.
