35's...

[kreiten]

So after reading everything I can find on here and looking at the wheel/lift/tire chart I'm a bit confused, it seems as though people are shocked when a 200 has 35's on it?!?! with a 2.5 or 3 inch lift do 35's not fit? I'm guessing brand of tire and offset and width of wheel would also affect it... But my basic question is will a 35x12.50 fit on a 200 series assuming lift and wheels are correct?!?! And if they don't fit where are the problems? front inner fender can easily be cut out, pretty much just a mud flap and plastic... Upper control arm issue can be fixed with after market UCA and wheel with more offset, right?!?! Lower KDSS arm might be an issue, could be solved a bit by a wheel with more offset but still may be an issue?!?! Rear tire could rub on frame? Wheel with more offset could help this too... Just thinking out loud... I guess a wheel with a larger offset could put the tire/wheel out far enough that it may not tuck properly and run on top of fender??? thanks in advance for any feedback....
Kreiten

 

[Willy beamin]

your question is 35x12.5 - Christo has them on his rig. He's running Nitto Trail Grapplers on TRD 17"s (50mm offset). I'd give him a shout and have your list of questions ready. I've spoken with him a couple times about fitting 35's and learned that if you gain something (35's) you'll end up giving up something, somewhere in return. It can be done and has been done. I'm determined to get this dialed in before too long as my current tires are going to be shot soon and I don't want to be buying tires more than I have to. I think 35's just look proportional on this rig. I myself am leaning towards 34+" tires in the 11.2-11.6" width to minimize rub. Good luck - take notes

 

[MScruiser]

This is not technical in any way, but here are a few of the things I have heard about 35s:

The biggest thing you have to lose is gearing. Obviously, this can be corrected with a set of nitro gears, but you'd be looking at probably $3k + in parts and labor. Or you could just say **** It and not worry about gas mileage. Don't forget, if you have the diffs pulled, you might as well add lockers while they are apart. Add another $1300 - $1500 per axle to your parts and labor fund.

Like you said, the KDSS arm can be troublesome. Slee is supposedly figuring out a way around that issue.

I also think another issue might be fender rub. Like the baja truck and the Artic trucks, this issue can be solved by cutting material (metal) off of the fenders.

The one other thing I have heard, is that bump stops may have to be used when running 35s. I know that the gold 200 that was built in 2008 had to have bump stops installed.

For what its worth, there is a guy on mud who has a 200 with Hutchinson beadlocks and 35s. He's from somewhere in Washington. It's s wicked ride.

Here is a link to that thread: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/offroad-power-products-2013-land-cruiser-200-series-build.753567/

 

[Willy beamin]

I have the Washington Guys name and email if you'd like it...PM me and I'll pass it along. It was very informative to hear what he had done versus what others are doing. For example, the Washington guys KDSS was not an issue as he bypassed it (the rub) by utilizing different wheels (offset) and tire combo. He left his stock bumper on and cut away some of the backside wheel well of the front bumper (the part you see / not inner, to my knowledge) for tire clearance when turning. I'm sure there's many ways to skin a cat.

For the Bump stops check out the Timbren's (front and rear) that Slee carries and sells. There are others out there but the money I spent on the Timbren's is about where I wanted to be and I trust Slees judgment on product offerings. Again none of my "stuff" is installed (don't take my word for the gospel), however I'm hedging that it will come together nicely.

For the inner fenders - I guess that depends on what you plan on doing with your rig and how fat a tire you want to run. I'm in Kentucky which is Mud, Rocks, valleys and switchbacks (technical) so I wont be blasting down anything fast, slow and easy Brother - like a southern bell.

MScruiser - I like your disclaimer in your opening - don't leave yourself open right?

Good discussion guys!

 

[MScruiser]

EDIT: I answered my own question.

 

[kreiten]

thanks for all the feedback guys... I have always rolled 35's on all my Cruisers in the past, I agree they just look proportional with the size of the rig... Funny thing is the difference between the guys running 35's and the guys running 33's sounds like just some small things... with the exception of the gears...

 

[Willy beamin]

Bingo

 

[Rando Kuruza]

Kreiten,

I can't wait to see your Cruiser with 35's I know it will happen

 

[MScruiser]

Krieten,

I also has 35's on my previous cruiser. Even with the 295/65/18 I have on mine now, whey just seem.......wimpy. I would love some 35's on my 200.

 

[Overlake]

If you guys want that beefy look just going for 35s is not it. You need width for that proper steamroller look. Anything less than 12.5" or ideally 13"+ is... Meh. Plus the wheel offset is key. You're going to want less offset than 25+. Else it's going to rub in places where you won't want to cut and it'll tuck too much like the popular tundra trd wheels. Notice they all run skinny 33s.

As mentioned id definitely do nitro gears, aftermarket ucas.

Add wheels, tires, road force balancing, shocks, springs

About $6k lower end work, $10k top shelf goods.

 

[Atwalz]

Overlake - what wheel offset are you running on your rig?

 

[Overlake]

Overlake - what wheel offset are you running on your rig?

at, I'm at 18+ on 18x9s and it's the perfect amount of poke imo. i had 25+ and those poked out a tiny bit with 13" wide 325s. i definitely have more room at full lock (though I rarely ever full lock as it's bad for steering).


when i go for 35s, the justdiff gear work are a must. Not concerned about the 5.7’s stump pulling power. I just want to maintain the off the line oomph and minimize hunting of 5th/6th gears at hwy speeds. I understand the work isn’t that simple and needs proper break-in per justdiff to do it right.

 

[Willy beamin]

Quick math but if I used the TRD wheels I currently have (50mm) off set and utilized the Slee or spider works 1.25" spacers (+-30mm) that'd drop the offset to 18mm-+ on those particular wheels. However the wheel well will only fit so much rubber width before it overflows. Then your kissing the fender with the tire at compression.

I think the tuck is necessary with 12"+ inches width of rubber or possibly you'd have to limit the up travel drastically. Don't know for sure. I'll find out soon. That's what drew me to the 11.6 width. I do think a fat tire would look awesome though.

 

[MScruiser]

I think the skinnier tires look great (military look). Too much width adds lots of rolling resistance/friction and can hurt gas mileage and can make a lot of road noise. You obviously have a trade off; wider tires = more traction, but it comes at a cost. A 12" tire is more than enough, and especially easy to justify if it will allow you to easily fit 35" tires in the stock wheel well. I have had 35"/12"/18" tires and was more than pleased with them on my old landcruiser.

 

[Willy beamin]

Real question. Is a spacer going to count towards the offset or the back spacing? Education please? I know they are two different things.

In this application (mentioned above) where would results end up?

TRD 17"
Stock 50mm
Back spacing 6"

Spacer 1.25" and or 31.75mm
Thanks

 

[Desert Nomad]

Quick math but if I used the TRD wheels I currently have (50mm) off set and utilized the Slee or spider works 1.25" spacers (+-30mm) that'd drop the offset to 18mm-+ on those particular wheels. However the wheel well will only fit so much rubber width before it overflows. Then your kissing the fender with the tire at compression.

I think the tuck is necessary with 12"+ inches width of rubber or possibly you'd have to limit the up travel drastically. Don't know for sure. I'll find out soon. That's what drew me to the 11.6 width. I do think a fat tire would look awesome though.

This is not at full compression, theres a bit more travel but already you can see the tire past the fender. Tire is a 32" so with 35s you'll need to adjust offset in relation to tire width.

Wide/skinny tires are all a matter of prefrence in my view. From research I've done what counts off-road would be profile. If you've got a high profile it will overcome whatever advantage/disadvantage of the wide/skinny debate. They both look cool in their own way.

 

[stockgtr]

Goodyear mtr's 35'. Icon stage 4 70mm lift. Trd Rock warrior rims. Diff drop, nitro gears and dual lockers.
Works a treat offroad. Have travelled around Australia and done over 40,000kms with this setup.
Will change the uca's though, as the tyres rub hard at lock. Will try spec adjustable arms as I'm yet to see any better than those when it comes to clearance and adjustment.
Hope this has helped.

 

[kreiten]

View attachment 965955View attachment 965956
Goodyear mtr's 35'. Icon stage 4 70mm lift. Trd Rock warrior rims. Diff drop, nitro gears and dual lockers.
Works a treat offroad. Have travelled around Australia and done over 40,000kms with this setup.
Will change the uca's though, as the tyres rub hard at lock. Will try spec adjustable arms as I'm yet to see any better than those when it comes to clearance and adjustment.
Hope this has helped.

how much of the inner front rear fender did you have to cut out? does it rub on the lower KDSS arm? does it rub on the frame in the rear at full compression? Does it hit the top of the fenders in the front or rear at full compression? thanks for posting the pics and info? please post more info and pics soon if ya can, this helps a ton!!! Are they 35x12.50's? thanks. -Ken

 

[Willy beamin]

K- down under doesn't have kdss
From my understanding.

 

[Willy beamin]

And that's why the Aussies roll 35's without the issues we deal with.