2F - rebuild...

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Hi,

I really hope the engine runs well; after all, I've already put a lot of money into it. 🙈🙈

But, you only live once...💪😎
Once the block is finished and I've put everything back together, it'll get a new camshaft, either from Deltacam in Tacoma or the RV kit from Man-a-Fre.
 
I have a header on 2F. It was on my F back about 1985. I moved it the next motor and the motor after that.
Anyway I made stepped washers to apply equal pressure to the two different thickness of the aluminium intake (0.250") and the steel header(0.500"). I made longer "studs" and used stainless steel nuts. I also used 2 man-a-fre header gaskets, soaked in warm water for like a half hour to soften them up so the high spots can dig in easily. I also planned the header and intake on a big piece of glass to get them flat.

Lastly I made a copy of the fluid heat riser that man-a-fre sells. Before I did that it would develop carburetor ice and choke the motor completely off in the fog.
 
Since my 2F cylinder head is now completely finished,
You took care of that pesky little oil passage plug then?

20240429_133856.webp
 
What do you mean by "grind the block"?"
My cylinder head was milled, specifically the sealing surface where the cylinder head is bolted to the block.

And I'd also like to have the sealing surface of the block milled.

But how much can I have milled off without the pistons hitting the valves? 🤔🙈

The more I have milled off the sealing surface, the higher the compression will be, right? 💪💪😍😍

Or am I wrong about that? 🤔🤷
 
Here, they call it "decking" the block. There are usually specs in the factory manual for maximum you can remove.

Typically just enough to give a good sealing surface is taken off. Some head gaskets require a certain finish so be aware of that. MLS gaskets may require a different surface than a composite gasket for example.

Racer's often deck more material off to achieve what they want for the piston height. Like a zero deck, (matches the piston) Not protruding or below the deck.

Yes, decking the block would raise compression just as milling the head surface would. You have to be careful though, as the pistons could contact the head surface. Piston protrusion and head gasket thickness has to be in the calculations.
 
Here, they call it "decking" the block. There are usually specs in the factory manual for maximum you can remove.

Typically just enough to give a good sealing surface is taken off. Some head gaskets require a certain finish so be aware of that. MLS gaskets may require a different surface than a composite gasket for example.

Racer's often deck more material off to achieve what they want for the piston height. Like a zero deck, (matches the piston) Not protruding or below the deck.

Yes, decking the block would raise compression just as milling the head surface would. You have to be careful though, as the pistons could contact the head surface. Piston protrusion and head gasket thickness has to be in the calculations.
Okay, thanks for the detailed explanation...👍 I'll only let it be worked on until the surface of the engine block is smooth.

It's safer that way... 🫣✌️
 
There's no spec in the fsm on deck height. There is a spec on checking flatness of the deck .15mm or 0.0059" using a flat edge and a feeler gauge. If it's out of tolerance then the deck should be machined to clean it up. Good machine shops should check all the tolerances b4 and after any machining is done, along with degreasing and checking for cracks. Then the assembler should confirm the tolerances during assembly. I usually wash the blk with soap and hot water and thoroughly dry it to neutralize the solvents the shop uses b4 assembly.
 
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Cool. That'll help identify why you don't have that oil galley drilled into your head.

This is what it looks like from stock. Just a plug. It tends to leak - this one is.

View attachment 4053278

View attachment 4053277
Hey friends,

Sorry, totally embarrassing, I think I was blind or something. 🫣🫣 My cylinder head does have that plug, I just checked.

Here are the photos...
 
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