295/70/18 with 2 inch lift

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Like Taco said you will def have to relocate your KDSS bar and do a lot of cutting to run a 285/75 R18, plus you will most likely have to run bigger bump stops if you plan on going off road to control the tires upward movement or that size tire will likely remodel your fenders. The below pic is my 285/70 R18 stuffed in the fender, it fits and does not rub but there is no extra room at all.
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I appreciate everyone's input. Extremely useful information. So lets say I get the relocation bracket, front and rear bump stops, 2inch lift, and use trd pro tundra wheela so 60mm offsets, would that be good to fit 295/70/18?

Seems from @kreiten original build thread that a lift with 275/70/18 is best bet for lift and tires with no need for anything else.
 
thanks for the props on the rig man! The setup you are looking to run(TRD wheels and 285/75 R18's) is def doable IMO, ya just gotta do a couple mods first! i.e. KDSS relocation bracket, bigger bump stops, sawsal and a six pack of beer, you got this!
So would any bump stops work or is there a preferred one for the lc200? I see timbren ses.

Also do you remember how much lift you got on the rear suspension with the cell foam pro? Please let me know. :)
 
So would any bump stops work or is there a preferred one for the lc200? I see timbren ses.

Also do you remember how much lift you got on the rear suspension with the cell foam pro? Please let me know. :)
I still roll the stock bump stops so I'll let @Willy beamin or @MScruiser chime in on what works for those! Also I think @usmcHOG had some custom bump stops made?!?! I got about 3 inches of lift in the rear and about 2.5 up front (including the Toyota coil spacers).
 
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I have the Timbrens just because of the 35" tires I had during that time.

I'd recconend doing a body lift and keeping the stock bump stops. I have a 1" body lift on mine, though I think you could do 1.5" without any adverse side effects.
 
I appreciate everyone's input. Extremely useful information. So lets say I get the relocation bracket, front and rear bump stops, 2inch lift, and use trd pro tundra wheela so 60mm offsets, would that be good to fit 295/70/18?

Seems from @kreiten original build thread that a lift with 275/70/18 is best bet for lift and tires with no need for anything else.
I ran the 275/70 R18's with no lift on stock wheels, only rubbing was at full lock barley hit the LCA. When I lifted the rig I ran the 275/70 R18's for another 6 months with no rubbing issues and no fender trimming needed. Then I grabbed some fuel Anza wheels(18x9 with a 20mm offset) and 285 70 R18 KM2's and had to do some fender trimming to eliminate the rubbing, I now have zero rubbing! One of the problems I see you having if you run the TRD wheels with a 60mm offset and 295's you are gonna be all up on the UCA depending on actual tread width, sidewall etc..
 
to second what @kreiten said about the 60mm offset of the factory wheels, I had to run spacers on my Tundra with factory wheels (60mm offset) to clear1 the SPC upper control arms. This is one of the benefits of the Rock Warriors; they have a 50mm offset.
Check with @RS6tofj80, I believe he had some 10mm hub-centric spacers made.
 
I still roll the stock bump stops so I'll let @Willy beamin or @MScruiser chime in on what works for those! Also I think @usmcHOG had some custom bump stops made?!?! I got about 3 inches of lift in the rear and about 2.5 up front (including the Toyota coil spacers).

So the rear has a higher lift output than the fronts? I thought typically all lift raised the fronts like a 2 front and 1 rear or so.... I'm not complaining about it as I personally like the rake on my lifted 4runner. I saw on sleeoffroad that the timbren ses also sells a rear lift spacer that you add with the timbren. Was planning on adding that to get an even lift front and back. :)

A lift with a rake reminds me of hot wheels and Tonka trucks when I was a kid. I guess to me it looks like a rake so that's how I personally like the rake. Haha
 
So the rear has a higher lift output than the fronts? I thought typically all lift raised the fronts like a 2 front and 1 rear or so.... I'm not complaining about it as I personally like the rake on my lifted 4runner. I saw on sleeoffroad that the timbren ses also sells a rear lift spacer that you add with the timbren. Was planning on adding that to get an even lift front and back. :)

A lift with a rake reminds me of hot wheels and Tonka trucks when I was a kid. I guess to me it looks like a rake so that's how I personally like the rake. Haha
once we have some gear in the rig it sits pretty level, the close to 3 inch measurement was right after it got lifted, it's def settled a bit.
 
to second what @kreiten said about the 60mm offset of the factory wheels, I had to run spacers on my Tundra with factory wheels (60mm offset) to clear1 the SPC upper control arms. This is one of the benefits of the Rock Warriors; they have a 50mm offset.
Check with @RS6tofj80, I believe he had some 10mm hub-centric spacers made.
While I was already putting on Total Chaos uppers, I checked rock warriors and a 295 wide tire with the stock upper a-arm. It absolutely did not fit, rubbing wouldn't even been the right word, it was more like smashing into each other.
 
Not sure if the Icons UCA's offer more clearance but they seem to work with my rig in tandem with the tundra lowers - as noted I do get some light scuff on them with the current spacer/ 305 setup..... think 285/75/18 is the way to go ..... I test fit a 325 the other day.... no chance, so likely will go tall and skinny at some point....

E
 
Not sure if the Icons UCA's offer more clearance but they seem to work with my rig in tandem with the tundra lowers - as noted I do get some light scuff on them with the current spacer/ 305 setup..... think 285/75/18 is the way to go ..... I test fit a 325 the other day.... no chance, so likely will go tall and skinny at some point....

E

So if we do a tundra conversion than 295/70/18 should fit fine? Are your tires 305/70/18s?
 
both work - 305's require more trimming and tolerating light scuffing on the UCA's.... but I suspect that it would hit on OEM arms and perhaps the SPC's ..... the Icons looked to have a bit more clearance due ot shape maybe ?


325's could fit but it's going to take the exact right offset or Artic flares

E
 
both work - 305's require more trimming and tolerating light scuffing on the UCA's.... but I suspect that it would hit on OEM arms and perhaps the SPC's ..... the Icons looked to have a bit more clearance due ot shape maybe ?


325's could fit but it's going to take the exact right offset or Artic flares

E


So if someone goes tundra conversion, do you go with tundra suspension type instead? Like you would need to buy ome for tundra and not landcruiser? Or fronts tundra and rear landcruiser.
 
If you do the tundra conversion, the front is all tundra, the rear remains cruiser.
 
If you do the tundra conversion, the front is all tundra, the rear remains cruiser.

I know coils are landcruiser specific. However from reading @just differentials build thread and looking at the pics, he used complete tundra pro suspension. Front with coils and rear shocks. I dont think bilstein has their shocks for sale in the US at least.
 
I still roll the stock bump stops so I'll let @Willy beamin or @MScruiser chime in on what works for those! Also I think @usmcHOG had some custom bump stops made?!?! I got about 3 inches of lift in the rear and about 2.5 up front (including the Toyota coil spacers).

Hey @kreiten so when you put the iron mans on, did you end up getting the relocation brackets installed too? I called Slee off road and they said that putting the Slee brackets will move it forward but will down the road bend the kdss bar on the left side I believe. He said it's a slight bent. Now will the bend pose a problem down the road or it's nothing to be concerned about? I may just do your build and go with 285/70/18. Extremely tempted with going tundra conversion and try 295/70/18 or 285/75/18....

I like your route because I read and watched how the foam pro works and it sold me... Haha. :)
 
Hey @kreiten so when you put the iron mans on, did you end up getting the relocation brackets installed too? I called Slee off road and they said that putting the Slee brackets will move it forward but will down the road bend the kdss bar on the left side I believe. He said it's a slight bent. Now will the bend pose a problem down the road or it's nothing to be concerned about? I may just do your build and go with 285/70/18. Extremely tempted with going tundra conversion and try 295/70/18 or 285/75/18....

I like your route because I read and watched how the foam pro works and it sold me... Haha. :)
with 285/70 R18's ya dont' need to relocate the KDSS bar so I didn't do that mod. Like Taco was saying and has a pic above of how close his tire is to that bar ya only need the KDSS relocation if ya go over 34 inches. I know @Willy beamin said he believed he may have had some side affects with the relocation but nothing major so far as I remember!?!? I'm super happy with the Ironman CFP's after a couple years of beating on them, no probs at all! Lots of ways to run these 200's, ya just gotta decide what ya want, how much ya wanna spend and what compromises you are willing to live with!
 
I run a 295/70r18 on +35 rims, kdss relocation and mudflap trimming
 
Can anyone clarify how big of a pain the modification is to the ARB Sahara bumper will be to run the Slee relocation bracket? I have rubbing at full lock, and I can probably live with it, but if I can eliminate it for $85 I'd be all for it. If it requires me to pull the bumper and cut on it I'll consider running it as is with a little rubbing or wait until my bumper needs to come off for a winch install. I'm running 295/70/18's on a OME lift. Pic is of current clearance.

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Can anyone clarify how big of a pain the modification is to the ARB Sahara bumper will be to run the Slee relocation bracket? I have rubbing at full lock, and I can probably live with it, but if I can eliminate it for $85 I'd be all for it. If it requires me to pull the bumper and cut on it I'll consider running it as is with a little rubbing or wait until my bumper needs to come off for a winch install. I'm running 295/70/18's on a OME lift. Pic is of current clearance.

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To do it right and clean. I would remove the bumper and mounting bracket. Where you see the metal that runs front to back with the truck, cut that off, then I would basically move it further inbound by welding it, to retain the strength of the mounting bracket when under winching load.

I have 295/70r17s and have the slightest of rub on the passenger side sway bar. I got the relocation kit, but I didn't want to modify my bumper, because I feel like I can modify the KDSS bar just as easy. Been looking at some options and talking to a sway mark manufacture that close to me. We'll see. As another side note, when the bar gets moved forward, where the sway bar links attach to the lower control arm, I feel, are pulled to far forward for my comfort.

Plus I really don't like messing with well engineered ARB bumpers, and after seeing enough people get seriously wounded from winching, I perfect to keep everything with as high a loadrsting as possible.

I think @mcgaskins has 285/75r17 ridge grapplers with the relocation kit and sway bar. I think he has a picture of where you can see the ARB mounting bracket cut to make it work without reinforcement if you want to go that way.
 

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