22RE: Chasing a Gremlin

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slap a temp vac guage on the motor and run it inside the truck . I think that may help some.



You have all the info on the readings?



for some reason my 22r runs amazingly high vac even with me giving it high rpm's.



mine is 21 at idle, 18 full throttle and 15/16 with brake. I dont know if m webber carb changes the dynamics or not? anyway thats another topic
 
I'm on a road trip right now. One observation is the engine for sure is running lean. Under load it feels like I'm out of gas. Vacuum is good ... 16-17in at 3000ft. It is still very hard to start. I'm going to chance the fuel filter when I get home.
 
I replaced the OX sensor thinking the same thing. No change. I checked the rubber ends of the intake tube. I'll check the tube.
 
yea check that tube, i had a friend with a mazda, that it had a crack in it and that car ran like s***! not to mention the money he paid to the steelership when they could not find the problem. i for get how we found the problem but he was pissed when he found out it was that plastic tube. he duct taped it and sold the car.
 
dang where to start

that tube for the air sucttion reed valve thats bolted to the air box has NOTHING to do with driveability.

seems like you pretty much nailed all the electrical parts
except injectors.

u say its running lean, so that says they aint leaking.
but then you say its starting hard so sounds like it could be

okay how bout the injector resistor unit? hows the wires look? try swapping a new one, maybe its a driver issue not a leak or pressure issue.

easy to test if the egr valve is operating properly:
while running at idle, remove hose to valve.
from back of plenum find vacuum hose and disconect it from where ever.
plug it into egr valve
result:
engine dies; working properly
does nothing stuck closed, clean valve with sea foam


about halfway down i thought replace ecu.
well ya did and no change.

and last on the FI side, you did properly calibrate the tps right??

ok so if it aint wanting to throw codes and u nearly covered the FI basics lets test mechanical

how about you do a cold dry compression test
then do a wet cold compression test

then a dry hot test then a wet hot test
(i mean wet by adding oil to cylinder to detemine problem in valve or rings)

i suspect rings. did you rebuild using chrome moly rings or cast? please say cast
 
ok wristy, i have to call you out!


here is a pic of the fsm, that clearly says drawing air in between the air flow meter and the throttle body!


toy4xfun-albums-f-s-m-picture17391-fsm-003.jpg
 
toy4xfun said:
ok wristy why not chrome moly rings?

i know they can be a pain to seat or break in, but beyond that why not.
Click to expand...
Engine was designed for cast. The metal in the engine block works best with cast rings. Chrome moly rings will be much more likely to score the cylinder walls.
 
I"ll block off the EGR and see what happens.

As far as the air tube ... the bottom line is if there is any leak between the AFM and the throttle body it will be a problem. Air will be entering the engine that is not metered. Same goes for any leaks at the rocker arm cover (PCV, vent, gasket, half-moons) or even the dipstick.

jadesnow said:
I know this sounds stupid but I had the same problem with mine and It was just a bad charcoal evap canistor. Try running it with the gas cap loose.
Click to expand...

I'll check that.
 
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