2024 Tacoma No Start Issue

[Romer]

Looking for any idea or suggestions on how to get Toyota involved so this can be fixed under warranty

This failure has occurred twice, first in Dec 19, 2025 and again on Sept 23rd 2026. What happens both times after driving someplace for 20 minutes and coming back to the truck after an hour, the truck does not start. Everything comes on, but there is no crank to the starter, no dash error codes and nothing else amiss except no crank, no clicking, no sound at all I can tell from the starter. I tried starting it with a NOCO Battery and no joy

In Dec, after 3 hours of trying to start, it suddenly started right up with no issues
I ran tests at home:

• Alternator voltage is good
• Battery Voltage was 12.6V
• No error codes

I read some of the new Panasonic Batteries had bad intermittent cells which could have caused this

On Dec 20,2025 I took it to the dealer and they couldn’t find anything wrong. Battery tested fine. I know sometimes a bad intermittent cell will test fine, so I had them replace the battery at my expense. I needed to do something so I wouldn’t be stranded. I thought that had fixed the issue

Failed again on 9/22/2026
I drove 20 miles to take my wife for her cancer treatment. Afterwards we tried to leave at 11AM and the truck wouldn’t start. I checked the Battery cables (Tight), I checked the voltage (12.6V), I tried to jump it with my NOCO Battery Booster and no joy

• No codes
• No error lights
• Everything else worked
• It recognized the key FOB
• It said “press brake pedal and press start” and when I did that, the message went away
• I could see the Brake lights come on, so it would not be the Brake Sensor switch that enables the start

I called AAA and they came out to test and try to jump the battery. They said the battery was good and jumping did not do anything. At this point I sent my wife home in an Uber

Since I was on the 2nd floor of a Parking Garage with low clearance, I was told it would be a 6 hour wait for a tow truck. I tried to start it at least twice an hour

The Tow truck driver came and said he couldn’t get into the garage due to clearance. So I used my winch to pull/push the Tacoma down two levels of the garage to where to tow truck driver could get me. I had the truck “On” (no engine) to use the brakes. This discharged the battery, it was fine before when AAA did a Battery test. The battery was not discharged until I had to use the winch.

The Tow truck driver took me to AutoNation Toyota and I verified it was still failing.

When the dealer looked at it the next morning, it started right up and they could not recreate the failure

The tech sent me a video saying I was concerned about the battery and it was discharged but still good. I am not concerned about the battery and I explained using the winch is why it was discharged. They failed to include that in the service write-up as to why the battery was low even though I asked them to.

Reading through the factory service manuals I see the following potential causes defined by Toyota:

• Starter Relay
• Starter (likely solenoid)
• Neutral Safety Switch. I did find a few videos saying this is a problem on some of the newer trucks

The dealer was not able to recreate it. I understand being an engineer its extremely difficult to troubleshoot something that isn't failing. The technician thought it was the low battery, but that is due to winching to get myself out of the parking garage

I had asked them to contact Toyota Technical support to help resolve this issue and they said they wouldn’t do that unless there was a failure.

I don’t want to get stranded a 3rd time, so I asked them what it would cost to replace the Neutral Safety switch and the starter. They wanted $750 for the starter install and said the part was $360. Toyota list is $249 and I can order it online from that same dealer and pick it up for $249, but it costs $360 through service and if I walk up to the parts counter??

I asked them to replace the Neutral Safety switch and I would look at other places to do the Starter.

I came to pickup the truck on 9/25/2026 and when I got in lots of dash lights came on with a error message to see dealer engine operation issue. The Service advisor ran a code reader and came up with P0705, which is a transmission range sensor circuit malfunction, typically due a problem with the Neutral safety switch.

They called me later to come get it and the switch wasn’t adjusted the first time. The technician who adjusted it sent a video and made it clear the switch was installed by a DIFFERENT technician

still thinking I need to replace the Starter and Starter Relay

Thoughts or suggestions?

If it fails again, I will be taking videos of everything I see and do

 

[Romer]

My faith in Toyota is restored I called the Brand Engagement number and they sent authorization to the dealer to replace the starter and reimburse me for the Neutral Safety Switch and Battery

They said the dealer should have this by Monday and to expect a call from them

 

[pappy]

I wonder if an old school starter tap with a wrench would solve the problem. At least enough to get you home. I've had issues with good/new Denso starters having this issue.

 

[Romer]

I wonder if an old school starter tap with a wrench would solve the problem. At least enough to get you home. I've had issues with good/new Denso starters having this issue.

Certainly something to think about

If it happens again, first thing is take pictures and videos of everything and anythying I can do to document the condition and ewasy to perform tests

Then try that emergency start that bypasses all the safety checks, that would eliminate a lot

Then a starter tap

 

[Romer]

I was very enouraged by the people who answer the phones at the Customer Engagement group. They said Toyota will take care of it. The Dealer got the email from them and called me Saturday. They said they didn't know what to do with what Brand Engagement had sent them since they can't authorize warranty work.

I called Toyota Brand Engagement back and they escalated it to a Case Manager

The case manager called me today and said without any diagnostics to show what is wrong, they didnt think they could authorize any work. They said they would contact the dealer and other stakeholders and get back with me by the end of the week

 

[Romer]

lets assume for a moment they come back and say they have to see it in a failed state. I see my options:

1) Wait until it fails again leaving me stuck someplace. That is going to effect how I drive it, where I park (no more garages) and when I would leave it at home due to the risk of getting stuck
2) I already replaced the Battery and just now the Nuetral Safety Switch on my own. I could also replace the starter and starter relay
3) Sell it or trade it in

Option 1 is a non starter (pun intended) for me even though I may have fixed it with the Neutral Saftey Switch. My best guess is the starter based on the way it behaves. I think by disconnecting the battery for a while I reset the ECUs which should have eliminated any SW interlocks?

Option 2 is where I am leaning and I hope it gets done under warranty, but think this is the bare minimum to have sense of confidence in having fixed it. Not saying 100%, but thinking at least 75% with the Neutral Safety Switch and SDtarter relay. Though I could just carry the relay and swap it out if it fails

Option 3 is what I would consider the last resort if I expend all reasonable avenues to resolve this and it fails again

The probable causes I found are:

• Brake sensor switch - I don't think this is it because I can see the brake lights and the message "press barke and select start button" changes when I do that even though the truck doesn't start
• Immobilizer - Thinking reseting the ECUs should have addressed this? I also think this would set a code
• Other SW interlocks- Thinking reseting the ECUs should have addressed this? I also think this would set a code
• Battery - checked out, replaced after first time and new one tested fine and a jump did not change anything
• FOB Battery- The truck recognized the FOB and I held it up to the start button just in case ( I will now carry a spare battery just in case)
• Nuetral Safety Switch- Possible
• Starter Relay- Fails to close and engage the starter
• Starter - Fails to turn over

The two times it has failed, it has done so after a 20 minute drive so it was warmed up. Then it healed itself. The 2nd time it cooled down and quite a bit of truck movement with the tow and then movement into the highbay. That makes me think it is mechanical in nature and why I am thinking Starter/Starter relay or possibly the Neutral Safety Switch

Thoughts?

 

[Romer]

Looks like I have a Valeo (made in Mexico) vs Denso starter. This gives me even more confidence it is the starter

Early failures in modern Toyota vehicles using Valeo starters (such as reports in newer models like the 4th gen Toyota Tacoma) often stem from internal electrical component breakdown, solenoid failure, or poor engagement. Traditionally, Toyota relied heavily on Denso starters known to last well past 150,000 miles, whereas some transitions to suppliers like Valeo have seen complaints of premature no-crank or clicking issues very early in a vehicle's lifespan. [1, 2]

Common Symptoms of Early Starter Failure

• • Single Click or Complete Silence: Dashboard lights and accessories work, but turning the key or pushing the start button yields only a single click or nothing at all, pointing to a failed solenoid or internal short.
  • Intermittent Cranking: The vehicle starts fine sometimes, but completely refuses to turn over randomly.
  • Slow or Labored Crank: The motor struggles to turn the engine over even with a fully charged and tested battery
  

 

[pappy]

Dang, I guess I'll be popping the hood to see what I have.