Builds 2018 Premium 460 build (4 Viewers)

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Not liking the giant void left in the wheel well once I removed the windshield washer reservoir and the debris it would catch and build up I ordered some Kydex sheet on Amazon. To my surprise the Kydex is supplied by a US based company CCK industries. They supplied instructions on how to work with the Kydex sheet.

I made a cardboard template (CAD), drew it on the Kydex sheet, cut the shape out, preheated the oven to 300 (they stated a range of 300-375) being 1/8” thick I chose 300, placed it on a sheet of foil and baked for 2 minutes.

Kydex is extremely pliable in this state, doesn’t hurt to have a friend around to hand you clamps. Once cooled a bit you can work small areas with a heat gun.

I picked up one factory bolt hole and a factory plastic retainer hole. Holds in place very good. I plan on removing it and spraying a frame/undercoating over the the entire area to give it a bit more on the factor paint.
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Not comfortable with the plain painted metal exposed to the harsh conditions of the wheel well I put Second Skin Spectrum spray on deadener on order today. Ill remove the entire plastic liner, clean each wheel well, dry and apply the Spectrum. Hopefully worth the time money and effort!

 
I finally had time to install the Second Skin Spectrum spray on deadener in my wheel wells this weekend.

Removing the remaining wheel well plastics and taping things off. Once parts removed I had to clean with soap and water then a final wipe with alcohol.

Lastly I made a Kydex panel for the left wheel well body mount pocket.


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Nice work! Wanna do mine when I move to north Idaho? LOL
 
How thick is it going on? 1/16" - 1/8"? Or thinner? Did you do apply it as directed or go "Tim-the-toolman (Rrr)" and do it super thick?
After you get a few miles under your belt, let us know how it sounds on the road.
 
How thick is it going on? 1/16" - 1/8"? Or thinner? Did you do apply it as directed or go "Tim-the-toolman (Rrr)" and do it super thick?
After you get a few miles under your belt, let us know how it sounds on the road.
3 coats @ 1 mil ish each?
 
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Been a while since I posted!

If you have used Maxtrax mount pins you know they are a pain in the rear to use, worse if your traction boards are snowy, icy or muddy.

LFD Offroad makes my rear bumper and many other parts for vehicles. They were prototyping this mount and asked my input. I suggested an extra angle to hide the threaded stud, this also afforded a lockable solution when traveling through the city, and the security fasteners as the hinge point. I added these modifications to the mount they sent me and I had it powder coated as well, I like matchy matchy with my rig. Prior to installing the mount I added rubber washers under the mount, Front Runner roof racks have a tendency to creek. I have found adding rubber under items helps minimize the noise. The price point on this mount is fair at $150.00 and a better solution to the Maxtrax pins.


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I just made my MaxTrax mount out of 1/8" x 1" rod and ran some threaded rod through it, next to my jerry cans. I do need to use my multitool pliers to loosen the wing nuts but easy enough, since I'm always carrying it. Also, it doesn't add any drag on the highway, unlike some who mount their traction board perpendicular and catch wind while driving.
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We’ve been using the MORRflate 4 way tire deflation inflation system for better than a year now and really like the product especially in groups where not everyone has a compressor to re inflate.

MORRflate just sent their new dual compressor. We will be comparing it to our mounted ARB twins. I am very sure we will put more ware and tear on it verses a standard owner as we will be using it for our clients vehicles. Standby for some preliminary test results.
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I like your wheel well work. I’ve been wanting to remove the rest of mine. So you pulled that weird black piece behind the fender as well? No negative affects? So I spy that you also chopped the mount from the pinch weld to the fender? I did and now my fender shakes a little down at the bottom and I need to build a bracket to hold it down.

Edit: I think I was mistaking the rear in your images for the front. Seems like you still have the black piece behind the fender?
 
I like your wheel well work. I’ve been wanting to remove the rest of mine. So you pulled that weird black piece behind the fender as well? No negative affects? So I spy that you also chopped the mount from the pinch weld to the fender? I did and now my fender shakes a little down at the bottom and I need to build a bracket to hold it down.

Edit: I think I was mistaking the rear in your images for the front. Seems like you still have the black piece behind the fender?
Yes, I managed to keep the lower fender retainer.

As for spraying the wheel wells you will want to pre order a half dozen of the plastic retainers. You will break a few. Yo may want to remove your wheels and clean your wheel wells outside. I ended up having to wash them in my garage once I removed the plastic. Made a giant mess!
 
We’ve been using the MORRflate 4 way tire deflation inflation system for better than a year now and really like the product especially in groups where not everyone has a compressor to re inflate.

MORRflate just sent their new dual compressor. We will be comparing it to our mounted ARB twins. I am very sure we will put more ware and tear on it verses a standard owner as we will be using it for our clients vehicles. Standby for some preliminary test results.
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I'll be curious about how it compares to the ARB twin.
On my 31570/R17's, I can go from 13 psi to 40 psi in less than 4 minutes/tire (if I remember right). It's faster now that I have the 4 tire inflation setup.
Don't hold me to those numbers. Next time I air down I'll try to get a better time and pressure.
 
Wow, 90 Amps! That seems like nearly twice as much current as the ARB.
The ARB twin draws 80 amps.

We used the MORRflate in the last class, I was VERY impressed with its function and operation. VERY fast fill up of three vehicles.
 
I have been having issues with my sPOD source unit blowing the 2 amp fuse that is located under the lid. After consulting with Baja Designs/sPOD they stated that the older circuit boards of the old design had cracking issues with the solider. My unit was way out of warranty but they have a replacement program for the source unit to update it to the new Bantam source unit. The replacement unit is $375.00 tax and shipping included. Not inexpensive by any measure but better than starting all over with a different brand.

The new unit is about 1/3 smaller and has the wiring attachments on two sides of the unit versus just one side. I was concerned that the wiring wasn't going to be long enough. I managed to have enough wire length but unfortunately due to having to connect the wiring by length the switch layout isn't as logical as before, because some of the wiring wasn't long enough to hook up to the old switch location. I know you are always supposed to leave a foot of wire for a maintenance loop, but didn't. I ended up only needing to drill two new holes for mounting the new smaller unit.

Overall happy that I didn't need to make any new homeruns with the wiring disappointed I didn't leave a maintenance loop.



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