2002 LC 195k - Noise isolation idler, tensioner, or alternator

[41togo]

Got a noise noticeably at start up definitely wasn’t there before. Check my records so 8 years ago 160k mi changed both belts, and both idlers at timing belt interval. The noise appears from the top ie idlers but I was thinking would that be the alternator and would it be wise to replace it as no indication it was changed, at least not during my ownership since 2013. Also could it be the PS pump ? Should I just replace the idlers first or order an alternator replace all and be done with it? Thanks!

 

[Dirt J]

What kind of noise? If it's pulley bearing, you can shoot some brake cleaner on each bearing while idling to see which one quiets down.

 

[41togo]

What kind of noise? If it's pulley bearing, you can shoot some brake cleaner on each bearing while idling to see which one quiets down.

 

[41togo]

When I start the engine it seems like a bad speaker then I turn off the radio the sound seems like a ticking rubbing noise, open the hood I can hear it’s from the front of the engine roughness of belt driven sound. But I’ll try your suggestion in the morning, thanks!

 

[Snow Wagon]

Hello 41togo,
If the brake cleaner trick doesn't give you a definitive answer, it's pretty easy to remove the serpentine belt (14mm socket on the serpentine belt tensioner pulley, turn counterclockwise, slide belt off tensioner).
You can then spin each of the following and see if one has a rough / not smooth / noisy bearing:
- Fan
- Serpentine Belt Tensioner Pulley
- Serpentine Belt Idler Pulley
- A/C Compressor
- Alternator
- Power Steering Pump

Note: You can start a Toyota 4.7 without the serpentine belt on.
If you do this, and the noise goes away, you know that the noise is something that is driven by the serpentine belt.
If the noise doesn't go away, it may be time to check your 2 timing belt idler pulleys.

Good luck.
Tom

 

[2001LC]

"Tick"

Thread 'Ticking time bomb TICK TICK TICK: Spark plugs Alert Alert Alert!'

Mar 3, 2018

TICK TICK TICK POP POP POP is a ticking time bomb, often mistaken as exhaust manifold crack or gasket leak leak.

ALERT, ALERT, ALERT: Spark plugs are working themselves loose. "Walking Out" Then blowing out of head, taking their female threads of head with them! Very damaging!

You think TICK or POP, is blown exhaust gasket or crack exhaust manifold. Replace the spark plugs. If tick doesn't go away, then you've confirm exhaust leak. Exhaust leaks anywhere need to be taken care of. But they're less damaging if damaging at all. But, if you blow...

• 2001LC
• Replies: 568
• Forum: 100-Series Cruisers

• 
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Pulley bearings


Fan bracket & alternator, are best check with a mechanics stethoscope. If fan bracket really bad, they often hop.


When cleaning Radiator fins. If pulley bearing or belt bad, they'll often sing out, if to a good amount water hits them.

Thread 'Radiator fins need cleaning! Alert Alert Alert'

Jul 22, 2019

I've a 06LC w/192K I just bought. In reading history I found PO complained of engine temp raising when both front and rear AC on. Toyota Dealership diagnosed with clogged radiator fins. Recommended new OEM radiator, $600 for the US spec Radaitor plus coolant and labor. They should have added radiator cap and thermostat to job, as best practice.

Got me to thinking about the radiators I've been replacing. All have debris built up on lower third.
This one hand some extra grasses along with general clogging on lower third.

Over the years/miles debit builds up in condenser and...

• 2001LC
• Replies: 35
• Forum: 100-Series Cruisers

• 

See Timmy The Tool Man for ways to test fan clutch.

 

[41togo]

So thanks for all you guys help! After spraying brake cleaner on the idler no change but immediate smoother with the tensioner. So ordered a bearing from Amazon thought an easy job, same day arrival so I’ll have a beer tonight lol. But surprised the aluminum ear broken off during disassemble. The bearing obviously failed but I wonder if the crack on the aluminum tensioner broken off was cause by me during disassemble by tightening up too much to get clearance for belt removal. Nevertheless, need to change the tensioner assembly now.
Questions: watch a couple videos but do you need to remove the fan shroud and fan assembly to gain more room? And I hope what I broke off is the tensioner assembly not the timing cover, I have to go back and look cause I thought I replaced with a new one just 60k miles ago. I saw most video just to replace the bearing not the entire assembly.

 

[2001LC]

I do remove shroud, fan/clutch, lower & upper rad hose. Makes jobs easier, giving plenty of room.
Pull bolts from Vane (power steering) pump & alternator. Just hang/set them to the side.

Note:
Start job be cleaning radiator fins.
Disconnect negative cable from battery.
Drain coolant from Rad. Extra: Good time to do a coolant service: Drain block, R&R heater Tees, thermostat (jiggle valve at top/up) and rad cap.
Clean up both those hose ends and goose necks. If pitted, best replace or restore.

Torque:
Tensioner 12ft-lbf
Vane pump is 13ft-lbf.
Alt 14mm 29ft-lbf.

 

[41togo]

Reviewed my records as I thought I replaced the tensioner last timing belt changed. Missed it my bad…I had the shop replaced all idlers except that, so the tensioner should be part of the TB check list although it makes it to 200k miles.
Now may as well replace the original alternator while I’m there, all the radiator hoses, noticed red dyes around the joints, yeah the housing too, clamps and the damn heater tees etc
Now a simple bearing change to a major inspection but LC still easy to work on just going take my time. Thanks all!

 

[41togo]

For what’s it worth there’s a sale coming Monday per Eric at Decatur Toyota ! Yeehaw
“The next 25 off sale will be in August there's a 20 off coming Monday. “

 

[41togo]

I do remove shroud, fan/clutch, lower & upper rad hose. Makes jobs easier, giving plenty of room.
Pull bolts from Vane (power steering) pump & alternator. Just hang/set them to the side.

Note:
Start job be cleaning radiator fins.
Disconnect negative cable from battery.
Drain coolant from Rad. Extra: Good time to do a coolant service: Drain block, R&R heater Tees, thermostat (jiggle valve at top/up) and rad cap.
Clean up both those hose ends and goose necks. If pitted, best replace or restore.

Torque:
Tensioner 12ft-lbf
Vane pump is 13ft-lbf.
Alt 14mm 29ft-lbf.

Finally got the parts with 20off great timing!
I changed the alternator as well with closed to 195k so job went smoothly went with your direction. Took a day I finished with new idler, tensioner, belt, thermostat, hoses, tees, and rebuild alternator. Haven’t start the engine yet notice the throttle body is dirt do clean it up and wrap up tomorrow. The tensioner body was cracked and been rubbing with the pulley.
Oh should have gotten a thermostat housing, upon polishing got pitting, probably why got weeping around hose, time for a new one. Lots of work to change a tensioner pulley but a fun and rewarding project. Thank you all!

 

[2001LC]

Replacement water inlet cap, is best. But you can clean and coat with 1282B band-aid. Just filling in pits. The hose will also have pits. Replace it as well!