Builds 2002 HZJ76 Build

[Rigster]

We also visited a more recent mine site that closed around 15yrs ago or so...

*WARNING* - The following pictures contain violence that some viewers may find disturbing. Viewer discretion is advised.

Looks like the miners would pile into this electric rail car to head down into the mine...

Elsewhere on the site I found THIS....

Looks like this was their ambulance... I am guessing it is an 85-87 BJ75 with a medical box on back

Poor thing needs saving... *sniff*

 

[Rigster]

There IS a way for Land Cruisers to cross water too.... headed home across the North Arrow lake and through Revelstoke...

 

[Rigster]

I forgot to note the only issue I came across on this trip was when I was climbing up to Mt Cody area, there was a fairly steep and rocky portion of the road I decided to use low range so I could slowly traverse that section pulling the trailer without having to ride the clutch.

Upon getting to camp and shifting back into high range the 4 wheel drive light stayed on. I was concerned that the automagic switch in the transfer was stuck. Up to this point, all of my land cruisers have only had manual 2H, 4H and 4L so I have had no experience with this type. I tried moving the vehicle forward, back, shifted back and forth with the 4H and 4L lever wondering if a swift was stuck or something, but the transfer stayed locked in 4 wheel drive. I even locked up the front hubs and drove a bit and shifted in and out to no avail. Pressed the Transfer button in and out listening to see if anything was "trying" to move underneath by the transfer.... nothing.

Then I inspected the connections on the transfer and what not, all looked good. So I decided to start from the top down... checked fuses, all were good, then decided to take apart the dash to get at the button switch:

I popped the above switch out, and voila! It was as simple as the plug was no longer attached to the switch. I plugged that in securely and it automagically came out of 4H.

I was wondering what made it come off in the first place, and I recalled my trip to Canmore and climbing Mt Lougheed with my boys. The route to get there takes the Kananaskis "highway" (just a double wide gravel road that is incredibly dusty) and it was riddled with corrugated sections that veritably vibrated the vehicle violently. So much so, that this must be when the plug shook loose. I like easy fixes. Just in case someone else comes across the same anomaly.

If it happens to occur again, then I will take steps to secure it better with a zip-tie or something...

 

[JDM Journeys]

I forgot to note the only issue I came across on this trip was when I was climbing up to Mt Cody area, there was a fairly steep and rocky portion of the road I decided to use low range so I could slowly traverse that section pulling the trailer without having to ride the clutch.

Upon getting to camp and shifting back into high range the 4 wheel drive light stayed on. I was concerned that the automagic switch in the transfer was stuck. Up to this point, all of my land cruisers have only had manual 2H, 4H and 4L so I have had no experience with this type. I tried moving the vehicle forward, back, shifted back and forth with the 4H and 4L lever wondering if a swift was stuck or something, but the transfer stayed locked in 4 wheel drive. I even locked up the front hubs and drove a bit and shifted in and out to no avail. Pressed the Transfer button in and out listening to see if anything was "trying" to move underneath by the transfer.... nothing.

Then I inspected the connections on the transfer and what not, all looked good. So I decided to start from the top down... checked fuses, all were good, then decided to take apart the dash to get at the button switch:
View attachment 2799154
I popped the above switch out, and voila! It was as simple as the plug was no longer attached to the switch. I plugged that in securely and it automagically came out of 4H.

I was wondering what made it come off in the first place, and I recalled my trip to Canmore and climbing Mt Lougheed with my boys. The route to get there takes the Kananaskis "highway" (just a double wide gravel road that is incredibly dusty) and it was riddled with corrugated sections that veritably vibrated the vehicle violently. So much so, that this must be when the plug shook loose. I like easy fixes. Just in case someone else comes across the same anomaly.

If it happens to occur again, then I will take steps to secure it better with a zip-tie or something...

Good catch! Best kind of fix too!

That highway is a bone shaker. Just be happy you have front coils!

 

[Rigster]

Ever wonder what the birds see above you? I was out camping at a friends property last weekend and one of the fellows had a drone...

We piled into the Land Cruiser to head up the mountain a little ways to an old mine site

Land Cruiser's look great from above too!!

 

[Gun Runner 5]

@Rigster …. “Ever wonder what the birds see above you”?
————————————————————————————-

I know exactly what they see …. a target.

 

[Rigster]

@Rigster …. “Ever wonder what the birds see above you”?
————————————————————————————-

I know exactly what they see …. a target.

These sound like the sage words of experience (with a hint of chagrin)

 

[Rigster]

Ok, I finally had some time to get a couple of things I have been wanting to get at completed!

#1 - Timing adjusted after new injectors. I knew I was going to have a little trouble accessing the engine side nut on the fuel pump... and sure enough nothing I had seemed to reach the nut well so I went and picked up a set of curiously long wrenches for the task:

To my disappointment, The ratchet box end would not quite fit on the nut due to the shape of the fuel pump housing, and the other box end did not have quite enough room to make the full turn on the nut and be able to get back on the nut, so I had to remove the upper coolant hose to gain another 3/16" turn(and generally have more room to look/work). This just allowed me to loosen the inner nut.

I figured since I was already losing a small amount of coolant anyways to drain the block and rad to refresh the coolant, and install a block heater. I already had 3 gallons of TOYOTA OEM antifreeze in the shop.

I managed to advance the timing by turning the fuel pump towards the engine about 3/16" and tightened it back up. Now I would love to have tested it right then and there, but I had to install the block heater and replace the coolant, so that would have to wait.

Here is the heater I chose:

I know a couple of people that swear by these, because it distributes the heat evenly, and through the heater core as well so you have warm air immediately upon start up in the cab as well. I did a lot of research and reading online about this choice, and found about 10 differing views, but mostly positive. I even read that you can't install these on a vehicle with air conditioning... ??? I am not sure what air conditioning has to do with the heating system and figured that poor fellow is just very confused. I am glad he is nowhere near my land cruiser. About the only thing you have to remember to do before plugging one of these things in is to make sure your heat in the cab is turned on so the antifreeze can circulate.

Installed:

Once I replaced the coolant, I took the Cruiser for a good long test run. Started with ZERO SMOKE, and on the highway long hill pulls around here where I would normally have to gear down to 4th to keep the EGT's under control (1100F to 1200F) and around 85km/hr I was now able to drive in 5th gear and maintain around 105km/hr at the same EGT's. What a huge difference. Very impressive since I am running 35's. Snappier, more power and lower EGT's. Just what the Dr ordered. On level terrain, I was able to cruise along nicely @ 120-130km/hr with EGT's around 800F. Very happy with the results.

Got back home, checked for any coolant leaks, all looked good, now just need to top it off before I head out again now that the engine is cold!

 

[JDM Journeys]

Ok, I finally had some time to get a couple of things I have been wanting to get at completed!

#1 - Timing adjusted after new injectors. I knew I was going to have a little trouble accessing the engine side nut on the fuel pump... and sure enough nothing I had seemed to reach the nut well so I went and picked up a set of curiously long wrenches for the task:
View attachment 2804605
To my disappointment, The ratchet box end would not quite fit on the nut due to the shape of the fuel pump housing, and the other box end did not have quite enough room to make the full turn on the nut and be able to get back on the nut, so I had to remove the upper coolant hose to gain another 3/16" turn(and generally have more room to look/work). This just allowed me to loosen the inner nut.
View attachment 2804608
I figured since I was already losing a small amount of coolant anyways to drain the block and rad to refresh the coolant, and install a block heater. I already had 3 gallons of TOYOTA OEM antifreeze in the shop.

I managed to advance the timing by turning the fuel pump towards the engine about 3/16" and tightened it back up. Now I would love to have tested it right then and there, but I had to install the block heater and replace the coolant, so that would have to wait.

Here is the heater I chose:
View attachment 2804609
I know a couple of people that swear by these, because it distributes the heat evenly, and through the heater core as well so you have warm air immediately upon start up in the cab as well. I did a lot of research and reading online about this choice, and found about 10 differing views, but mostly positive. I even read that you can't install these on a vehicle with air conditioning... ??? I am not sure what air conditioning has to do with the heating system and figured that poor fellow is just very confused. I am glad he is nowhere near my land cruiser. About the only thing you have to remember to do before plugging one of these things in is to make sure your heat in the cab is turned on so the antifreeze can circulate.

Installed:
View attachment 2804615

Once I replaced the coolant, I took the Cruiser for a good long test run. Started with ZERO SMOKE, and on the highway long hill pulls around here where I would normally have to gear down to 4th to keep the EGT's under control (1100F to 1200F) and around 85km/hr I was now able to drive in 5th gear and maintain around 105km/hr at the same EGT's. What a huge difference. Very impressive since I am running 35's. Snappier, more power and lower EGT's. Just what the Dr ordered. On level terrain, I was able to cruise along nicely @ 120-130km/hr with EGT's around 800F. Very happy with the results.

Got back home, checked for any coolant leaks, all looked good, now just need to top it off before I head out again now that the engine is cold!

Heater looks like it'll do the job! Lots of room in the right place too!

So you didn't measure your advancement, eh? It's pretty surprising how little you need to turn the pump to advance or retard the timing.

I did an eyeball advance before I got the tool and it was way higher than I would've expected. But now that I'm at the factory spec again I'm missing the ooomph that you're now getting.

The changes are in increments of 100ths of a mm, in terms of the plunger stroke, so I guess its little wonder?

Wonder what is "safe" in terms of advanced pump timing?

I used a short 12mm on the forward nuts (dropped it about 50 times grrr) and a ratcheting 17mm on the back bolt. Big hands aren't helpful for either....

 

[Rigster]

Wonder what is "safe" in terms of advanced pump timing?

Well the answer to this question is relatively straight forward, the timing of the fuel entering the cylinder isn't so much of a question of safe as it is a question of how well will the engine run... eventually the engine will run rough, or not at all. Injection timing is not like engine timing where IF it is off, then it could damage the valves and/or the pistons if they ever came in contact from bad timing. Injection timing is not like that, it just times when the fuel is injected into the cylinder.

 

[Rigster]

Ok, haven't had much time to do anything on the Cruiser, but I finally took the poor thing in for a well needed and deserved bath since the last couple of trips camping/exploring in September. Too many other little projects requiring attention before it gets too cold to be fun!

Seemed to resonate with me...'

Who doesn't want their Cruiser to be HAPPY???
It's never to young to start a Land Cruiser owner apprenticeship...

Much happier!

 

[snt2010]

Mate I have read through your post regarding the egr delete. Any chance you have been able to completely delete the system. I have fitted a turbo and top mount intercooler and removed all of the egr tubing only to find that the glow plug light now stays on. Also I was in such a hurry to remove the piping I didn’t take any pics of how the piping was arranged. Any chance you would have some pics of how you have done yours. Cheers

 

[Rigster]

Mate I have read through your post regarding the egr delete. Any chance you have been able to completely delete the system. I have fitted a turbo and top mount intercooler and removed all of the egr tubing only to find that the glow plug light now stays on. Also I was in such a hurry to remove the piping I didn’t take any pics of how the piping was arranged. Any chance you would have some pics of how you have done yours. Cheers

Good day to thee @snt2010! It took me a little while to reconnect the solenoids and get the routing correct before the glow light would stop coming on. I followed the following 2 diagrams, and with a little trial and error, managed to get the routing correct. I printed the diagrams to I could look at them while I worked on the vacuum lines. If I thought you lived close by, I would just suggest you come on over and we could get it working together!!

Hope this helps! Let me know how you make out!

 

[snt2010]

Good day to thee @snt2010! It took me a little while to reconnect the solenoids and get the routing correct before the glow light would stop coming on. I followed the following 2 diagrams, and with a little trial and error, managed to get the routing correct. I printed the diagrams to I could look at them while I worked on the vacuum lines. If I thought you lived close by, I would just suggest you come on over and we could get it working together!!

View attachment 2820041
View attachment 2820042
Hope this helps! Let me know how you make out!

Your a legend mate thankyou very much.

 

[Rigster]

Ok, so I had a chance to do some highway travel with the Cruiser after the new injectors and fuel tuning. I am getting 14L/100km with 35"x12.5" tires. This is through mountainous terrain, hills and lots of corners. Not too bad with those big boots.

This machine came with brand new 31" snow tires on the stock alloys so I decided to mount them for the winter. I suspect the mileage should improve, though once they have switched to winter diesel up here I will not see as much improvement as I would like. But my bigger concern is the fact that the Cruiser looks a little goofier with the little tires and the 4" lift... lol. Ah well, I can live with it and burn up the cheaper tires over the winter.

Because everyone likes pictures, a couple of weekends ago I was checking out the upper mine entrance at a friends property:

 

[JDM Journeys]

Wow that's a pic buddy! @Gun Runner 5 is likely printing it off as we speak.

I'd like a chance to get a pic of our trucks together again, once you fit those wee tires. Mine's had an inferiority complex ever since their first meeting...

 

[Gun Runner 5]

Wow that's a pic buddy! @Gun Runner 5 is likely printing it off as we speak.

I'd like a chance to get a pic of our trucks together again, once you fit those wee tires. Mine's had an inferiority complex ever since their first meeting...

With the exception of mountains, canyons and beautiful foliage, it looks just like Southwest Georgia.
** To be clear our pine trees do change color. They start off green, during the year they change to green and late in the year they remain green.

 

[Rigster]

Headed out on the weekend to a cabin and on the first trip with the OEM alloys and the brand new toyo winter tires that came with the cruiser. I figured I would use them and save the expensive rubber. The OEM alloys are already showing signs of wear, so they are the perfect winter abuse candidates.

I have yet to fill up again and do a mileage check, but it will be better, to be sure. Even with the couple of hours in 4 wheel drive exploring some trails and playing in some snow at higher elevations. I asked my boys what they wanted to do one afternoon and my 14yr old wanted to go "cruisin". He already has the Land Cruiser bug and is saving for one. He has his eyes on a PRADO as they are a little cheaper (for now)...

@JDM Journeys, here is the pictures you were looking for with the original weee little tires on... lol

Went for a little cruise and found a family camp about 22kms up a forestry road, kind of odd that far back...

I found it interesting with the smaller rubber how significantly I felt the ridges and bumps in the roads in comparison to the big 35's. They seem to isolate a lot more of that. Could be simply that these toyo's have a lot stiffer sidewall too. I am only running 35 psi where max pressure is 44. Once these tires wear out in about 4 years (lol) I will likely throw on some 33x9.5's and those should look more appropriate.

 

[Rigster]

Ok, been a while since I have posted, as I have focused on other things and life's needs...

However, I am happy to report I have already noticed that I have another 100km to a tank of fuel, and this is mixed driving, some 4 wheel drive miles, and even some pulling my trailer. Avg around 12.5L/100km

I also took a little time to do some artwork after finally finding a red sharpie for sale. Probably need to do another coat... lol

I also took advantage of the black friday sale at online auto parts down under and got some regular maintenance stuff at 20% off for future work when the time/need arises:

I was surprised at how quick this stuff arrived! I ordered Last Friday, and it was all here Tues & Wed.

I picked up a complete timing belt kit with water pump and tensioner, brakes - new discs and pads front/rear plus complete hardware for new emergency brake shoes, etc. I also grabbed a complete knuckle rebuild kit with ALL bearings, seals and gaskets. I just ordered a HD clutch kit as well for future, still waiting on that to ship.

I may spend a little time on this beast this weekend, doing a few things if time permits! Stay tuned!

 

[Rigster]

Ok, I actually had a spare bit of time to myself, and despite being a bit chilly outside, I decided to get a couple things done on the ol' cruiser.

One was to give my 6'3" frame a little more room and did the same track extension that @FJBen did on his seat for his similarly long frame. He documented it well in his thread so I will not repost here. I managed to get exactly 3 additional inches of travel back. I can literally stretch my legs straight! If I am honest though, without having to "reach" for the steering wheel and shifter when it is in 1, 3, or 5th, I have to keep it one notch forward from fully back. Nice to have a little extra though if needed.

The other thing I had noticed was I was getting buzzing from the rear speakers, so I measured up what was in there and ordered a decent pair of Cerwin Vega's on sale.

You can see the original 6" speaker the foam around the ring was disintegrating, even though the original speaker was fine. Also to note, the proprietary method of attaching the speaker to the body. This could cause an issue with mounting the new speakers...

The other side of the speaker:

So how to mount a new 6" speaker without the same mounting frame? Why, use the old mounting frame of course!

I used some regular tin snips to cut the old speaker out of the surround, then pounded the old speaker housing flat, and screwed the new speaker to it so the new speaker would have the bolt in mounts from factory.