2000 LC Buy and Build (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Dec 29, 2016
Threads
4
Messages
74
Location
Arkansas
45F84C2C-A39A-4A66-B2BA-65748824A6EF_zpsedijzxzl.jpg

Current Setup. OME 265 Springs with OME T-bars and OEM Shocks and Cooper Discover AT3 285/75R16 on all 4 corners.

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All loaded up for family adventure.

Hello, new to IH8Mud. Just purchased a 2000 LC to replace a 97 4Runner that was totaled when I was hit by a DD. I figure Toyota saved my life once, they get the next opportunity. lol.

I've been looking for several months at 4th gen 4Runners, LC's, LX470's and GX470's. I finally picked this LC. It has 118k miles. Its pretty clean. Leather is in good shape. The faux wood dash inserts not so much. I'm hoping I can find some reasonable replacements.

I picked it up in NW Arkansas and drove it 170 miles home. All electrical features work. Although auto antenna may be on the way out. Runs and steers well. Suspension appears to be original. A little surface rust underneath but otherwise pretty clean. Its going to get a small lift and new tires all around. We typically spend the summer camping in Colorado and Wyoming. We like to get into the backcountry but no serious rock crawling. Leaning towards a Slee 1.5 with 32-33in tires. (suggestions welcome)

I identified a few mechanical issues. Plus I'm sure there will be others I discover when I baseline it.

Areas to trouble shoot:
drivers side exhaust tick at cold startup

Shifts in and out of 4lo but there is a squeal while in 4lo

Center Diff lock sticks. Coast in neutral and it disengages.

PO could not confirm if Timing Belt has been replaced. His parents who most recently used the vehicle passed away and there are only a handful of receipts. I'm going to assume it has not until otherwise proven. Any veteran visual inspection tips that might help me confirm would be appreciated.

The PO in the last year had the following work done.
remaned starter installed
alternator replaced
replaced serpentine belt
replaced valve cover gaskets


I'll add a list of build wishes shortly but first I need to tear into this a little, baseline it and prioritize needs.

I'll post some pictures shortly.


Thanks for reading. Any suggestions and advice is welcome.

drew
 
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Welcome! I have the OME1.5 medium springs in rear with cranked torsion bars. About a two hour job and pretty simple. Check out my build thread for guide. I also linked to where I got my ideas from another member.

The 33's are a great compromise. I still find them a bit small after the minor lift, but they have gotten me over all obstacles.

Triple check your heater T's. Mine left me stranded but luckily at a gas station. It only takes 30 minutes, are less than $10 but will cause a major problem if they break at the wrong time.

Good luck and others will chime about your other concerns.
 
Thanks BucFL on the heater T's tip and feedback on the lift and tires. I'll check out your build.
 
The drivers side exhaust tic will be the cracked manifold. No worries on that one. The T-belt sticker is usually on the drivers side cam cover or on the engine cover or radiator top. Sometimes hidden a bit, so look around with a good light. However, at only 118K miles and with the other records you do have, it seems unlikely to have been done. Where is the 4lo squeal coming from? Get some grease in the propeller shafts and fresh oil the t-case and differentials (and trans) right away. Lots of places on-line sell wood trim for the 100s. Nice color combination, BTW. My favorite.
 
The drivers side exhaust tic will be the cracked manifold. No worries on that one. The T-belt sticker is usually on the drivers side cam cover or on the engine cover or radiator top. Sometimes hidden a bit, so look around with a good light. However, at only 118K miles and with the other records you do have, it seems unlikely to have been done. Where is the 4lo squeal coming from? Get some grease in the propeller shafts and fresh oil the t-case and differentials (and trans) right away. Lots of places on-line sell wood trim for the 100s. Nice color combination, BTW. My favorite.

Thanks Sandroad. After your comment, along with some searching I feel good about the manifold tic. Tomorrow I'll climb all over the engine and see if I can find a TB sticker.

The 4lo squeal sounds like it is coming from the front of the vehicle. I need to get my wife to drive it while I walk next to it and see if I can pinpoint it better. I plan to grease the shafts tomorrow and do a complete fluid service front to back. I'll post back what I find and if things improve.

And, it would not be my first choice but the color is growing on me.
 
I had a few hours today so I started to baseline the truck. Transfer Case, front and rear diffs, lube drive shafts, drain and fill transmission, flush brakes, and replace air filter.
LCFluids.jpg

no frozen bolts on the skid plates or drain plugs which made life easier. Here is a couple of pics of the transfer case dp and front diff.
LCTransferCaseplug.jpg
LCFrontDiffplug.jpg

Both were due for a service but fluids were still pretty good. Front diff plug had a little more junk on the magnet but fluid was still pretty clean. I forgot to take pictures of the rear diff plug but the fluid was really good and probably serviced within the last 10,000 miles.

The transmission fluid i drained looked really good as well so it may have been serviced recently. I lubed the drive shaft. Definitely needed it. Snap crackle and pop pushing out the old lube. Can anyone confirm how much grease needs to be pumped into the SLIDE YOKE zerc fittings on the drive shafts?

I ran out of time, so I'll need to flush the brakes and power steering fluid later this week.

I can definitely feel an improvement in shifting between hi and lo. But there is still a squeal in 4lo. I'll take it out tomorrow and see if I can pinpoint it better.

I also popped the driver side cover for the timing belt and confirmed it has not been changed. plenty of cracks so I'll be ordering all of the parts to replace it asap.
 
Welcome! Love that color.
 
Nice ride, great color!
 
Well I started my 90k service today. Here is a photo of the belt. Not sure home much life is left in this one.

TimingBelt.jpg


Any advice on how to get the cam bolts undone. I've tried applying opposite force to the crank bolt with the timing belt still on but I can't either one to budge. The belt is so sold its stretching and I'm afraid it will break before the bolts let go. This is the non VVT engine but can I cause any damage if I rotate the cam's backwards?
 
Well I'm stuck waiting on the belt tensioner to arrive. My local dealership forgot it on the order. I had time scheduled today to get it all done. Now t looks like I won't have things buttoned back up until the weekend. But here's a pile of the stuff going in. I'm replacing the hoses along with the T connections. Probably overkill but I'm here already so peace of mind outweighs the small cost and time.
90kServiceParts.jpg
 
While I'm patiently waiting (read absolutely frustrated I can't finish the TB service today) I'll post a few more photos. I've been detailing the inside. It was in fairly good shape to begin with. Here is a look at a few before and after shots of the leather. My photo skills don't do it justice but it cleaned up pretty good.
Leather Cleaner and Conditioner.jpg
LeatherBeforeandAfter.jpg


LeatherBeforeandAfter2.jpg

I used a 4 step process. Wiped down seats with a damp cloth using very hot water. Applied the leather cleaner and gently scrubbed with a soft bristle brush. Wiped down the seat with a clean damp cloth. And then applied the leather conditioner. Took me about 2 hours for the whole process. Well worth it.

Now does anyone have any pro tips to clean the headliner? I have some dirty spots I assume are from a large dog or possibly Sasquatch riding in the middle row.
 
90k+ Service all buttoned up and the cruiser is back on the road. Overall the work and what I found was what I expected. This TB video was a big help. And this tip from the YotaTech forum was great for tackling the Cam Pulley bolts.

From what I could see the inside of the block was clean and free of corrosion. While i was waiting on the belt tensioner I decided to replace the fan bracket as well. The bearing didn't have much play, but figure replacing it probably keeps me from having to touch it until the next 90k service.
In addition to the full TB change I replaced the spark plugs, thermostat, radiator hoses, oil coolant hoses, heater T's and hoses. And because this never happened without photos...
InsideWaterPump.jpg
WaterPumpTensioners.jpg
NewTB.jpg
HoseTs.jpg
 
Nice rig @78f150tx, that's the best color out there (but I'm a little biased). Great job on the leather, to speed things up, a bucket of water and Murphy's Oil Soap and a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser used gently on all the leather surfaces will work wonders, just follow it up with a good conditioner and you'll be golden!

Headliners are a pain in the but to clean because of the material used, a lot of people assume to spray carpet cleaner on it but one, the material usually is really delicate so things can go wrong quickly. Another thing is, once that spot dries, it'll leave a ring of cleaner where it was sprayed. I'd suggest dabbing a microfiber cloth in a bowl mixed with laundry detergent and gently blot, or in a pinch, a spray of rug cleaner on a towel will work as well. Get a few pics if you can of the affected areas.
 
I was gonna say dont touch the cam bolts lol..... t belts are easy on them... dont even have to take radiator out..
 
Where are you in Ark ? I saw one in Morrilton today that looked just like it..nice looking rig !! great job on the baseline and service !!!! Thanks for the helpful links on that
 
Thanks @slacker24-7 , That was not me but I'm not to far from you in Conway. I like your avatar shot. That looks like you were having some fun. We just moved here from Wyoming so would appreciate any recommendations that you have for exploring Arkansas. If there is a group that gets together here I would sure like to meet up. I'll be building our rig up over the next few months to get us ready for some family camping here plus a summer trip back to the Rockies.
 
I was gonna say dont touch the cam bolts lol..... t belts are easy on them... dont even have to take radiator out..
Yeah @beerock I generally follow the old adage of if it ain't broke...but I had the cam seals and figured it was an opportunity to learn something about the 4.7 I did leave the radiator in. There isn't as much room under the hood as my old 78 Ford had, but it is pretty spacious. I'll be testing that some more in the next couple of weeks when I have a look at my driver's exhaust mani. My tick is turning into a more constant leak so I may try repairing/replacing that.
 
@landylover21 I agree, best color of the cruiser hands down! Thanks for the tips on detailing. I had a look at your cruiser and I'll just say that my rig aspires to be as good looking as yours. WOW!

I'll give the MOS/magic erasers a try and I'll get some photos of the headliner shot and posted when I have some daylight. Definitely interested in any pro tips you can offer.
 
@landylover21 I agree, best color of the cruiser hands down! Thanks for the tips on detailing. I had a look at your cruiser and I'll just say that my rig aspires to be as good looking as yours. WOW!

I'll give the MOS/magic erasers a try and I'll get some photos of the headliner shot and posted when I have some daylight. Definitely interested in any pro tips you can offer.

Thanks man! I figure I can't offer much mechanical knowledge compared to many of the forum members here so anything I can bring to the table here will help others in some way!
 

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