2000 100 Series Getting Really Tired, Anyone Agree its a parts car now? Info in post

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Joined
Nov 12, 2018
Threads
12
Messages
82
Location
Massachusetts
Hi Everyone, I love this 100 series, but im looking at north of 5k in repairs and it needs tires. The frame near the front body mount is pretty much toast. It needs a steering rack, CV joint, front Automatic Transmission hose assembly, a rear wheel speed sensor, and the mechanic says there is 1/4 inches of play in the rear diff......Cost likely go up depending one what breaks on removal, and the bill doesn't include fluids, etc. I could actually do this myself but I have so much else going on I just dont want to do it. The sunroof doesn't open but I bought new cables and a frame that works with a working motor I was going to install......

What it does have, a 297k motor that runs like a top, burns no oil, has new coils, plugs, timing belt serpentine belt. New radiator, All new AC front to back a stainless exhaust and slee step sliders. Also, I revcovered the front seats, and it has a great sony head unit with apple play....

Anyone on the board want a 2000 LC to cannibalize? I think its worth something for the parts. All thoughts welcome!
 
If frame and under body is badly rusted, and has holes (bad bones). I'd not spend money on it.
 
Im with you. Carvana said they would pick it up immediately and give me $2700 for it.....
 
Wrong buyer carvana.. advertise on FB, offerup or CL and get double that easily, expect some lowballers so ask $8k to lower to $6.. If it looks good, it'll sell.

Also, Never negotiate price on the phone, negotiation is done with a buyer, not a couch potato.
 
Im with you. Carvana said they would pick it up immediately and give me $2700 for it.....
Don't do that until you run out of other options first...

Maybe I missed it, did you mention if its rusty? I see you are in MA so I assume yes.... Lets see some pics of the underside? You could get more for it as a parts car or just a sale for someone who has mechanic skills and can bring it back to life. The 2UZ motor being in good shape is a plus

If not rusty, post on classified on MUD and Marketplace

If rusty , consider parting out / selling motor / selling CATS / tires / wheels / ect.
 
Has anyone looked at the frame to see if it is repairable? What part of Mass? There is an excellent shop in Braintree that does amazing work on these trucks!
 
This is such good advice! The only rust ive seen is near the body to frame bushing up front....I'm pretty close to doing the cv joint myself. Ive done them before and it doesn't look that bad....The steering rack looks like a pain, but doable.....Im in MA yes...Too wet to get under the car for picks but I'll get some tomorrow. Here is my post on craigslist. added a bunch of images, will get underside tomorrow....What is the name of the shop in Braintree?
 
Hello dclc,
Use a screwdriver to test / check the frame.
If you can push it through in multiple areas, it's probably time to part it out.
If not and it's just some heavy scale, it can / should be saved (IMO...).

How are the Inner Rockers, Outer Rockers, Gas Tank Shield, Rear Upper Hatch, etc.?
Rust holes or just scale?
Rust showing on the Body scares people away...

The only 2 "major" repairs you mention are the frame (if it's truly that bad...) and the steering rack.
Why do you think you need a rack?
IMO, the other items are relatively minor.

As others mentioned, pics would be great.
In Pittsburgh PA, I'd say it's worth between $4k and $5k as it sits, if the rust isn't truly terrible.

Enjoy.
Tom
 
World Motorwerks, 20 Mill Lane, #9, Yianni Laskos

I worked with him for 3 years until retiring for the second time!
We did a bunch of frame restorations on the Toyotas and Lexus of this era...
 
I found the Craiglist Ad.
If it's ok to post it, here it is.
Honestly, it doesn't look bad, but the underside may be a different story...


If it's not ok to post it, please let me know and I'll delete / revise my post.

Enjoy.
Tom
 
here are a bunch of images, Ill add pics of the underside tomorrow

I found the Craiglist Ad.
If it's ok to post it, here it is.
Honestly, it doesn't look bad, but the underside may be a different story...


If it's not ok to post it, please let me know and I'll delete / revise my post.

Enjoy.
Tom
Totally fine thanks Tom

the thing is, every time I get in it I say to myself, I love this truck....bought it 7 years ago with 150k for 6k, m an these have appreciated
 
I found the Craiglist Ad.
If it's ok to post it, here it is.
Honestly, it doesn't look bad, but the underside may be a different story...


If it's not ok to post it, please let me know and I'll delete / revise my post.

Enjoy.
Tom
Pic shows timing belt done at 365k in 2023 but first post says less than 300k currently


Need to see underside pics but so far id say this is def not a parts vehicle and certainly worth more than carvana offer..
 
Hello Mike NXP,
It appears the installer put the numbers in the wrong place.
It shows both 265k and 365k on the label.
I believe the 265k is when it was done and the 365k is when it's due to be done again (technically should be 355k...).
Enjoy.
Tom
 
Hey everyone, I bit the bullet and started pulling the CV joint. Unfortunately I didnt know that means replacing the upper control arm!....I took a ton of pictures if the underbody. The frame is solid except where the front body to frame mounts are....and the passenger side rocker is rusty, I figure due to a clogged sunroof drain. After cleaning up the car yesterday I starting thinking of doing the work myself...maybe not the rack as that is difficult on my back....Let me know what you think of my rust survey pics. They are on google drive, I shared to anyone with the link: LC-under-body - Google Drive - https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1pMToDzVHYqxdyCTbflghjo32k-VZxsuY?usp=sharing

I think I will need to break the lower Ball Joint to get the CV out, and tricks on the upper ball joint replacement would be great. Not pumped about pulling the upper control arm.....My Dad told me years ago, never fall in love with your car....damn it
 
Your Cruiser looks like its in decent condition. It's no creme puff but it is similar to mine... and I keep dumping $$$ into it to keep it on the road.

You shouldn't need to do anything with the upper control arm when replacing the CV. If you separate the lower ball joint from the spindle, you should be able to manipulate the spindle and pull the axle out. If not, separate the upper ball joint and pull the spindle assembly.

If you need a new ball joint, replace both. 555 brand is a good option as Toyota doesn't sell an upper ball joint by itself. Replacing them isn't difficult if you are in this deep. There are a few threads on the process here on Mud. I did find it easier to press in a new ball joint on the upper control arm with it sitting on the shop floor vs still in the vehicle.
 
Thank You! That was Cruiser Parts opinion too. And they gave me a very resonable estimate to do, cv joints steering rack, rear wheel speed sensor new Trans cooling lines and weld the ruts just forward of the frame to body
 
Nice, glad to hear you are fixing it and keeping it going VS selling for parts.... Even if you do eventually decide to sell this will all help get you a better sale price
 
I fell in love with a 2 door tahoe and then rolled it 3 times at 65. Found out jake from snake charm didn’t appreciate it as much as I did.
 
Glad to hear you're fixing it up - about the twin of mine.

Once you get the rust repaired and the underside cleaned up, hit everything bare or suspect with some alkyd paint like Zero Rust or Rust Bullet and then Woolwax/Fluid Film/oil the heck out of it a couple times per year.
 
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