200 Series Ti key shell
- Thread starter MrCWineMan
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Count me in for a pair of HYQ14FBA.
I believe the 2018 Land Cruiser got a different fob, so HYQ14FBA will likely only work through 2017 model year vehicles.
I believe the 2018 Land Cruiser got a different fob, so HYQ14FBA will likely only work through 2017 model year vehicles.
Update!
I have both 200 series versions on hand as donor fobs. See pic. Design phase beginning!
These are neat. I don't think they are a functional improvement so much as a fashion statement, but they're interesting. I definitely tip my hat to that guy. Not my taste, but well executed for what it is. A few notes on those products and how I plan on the YotaMD product differing:
1. Size. The YotaMD design will be compact. No extra girth for the sake of design. The OEM shell is too big. It can and should be made smaller. The 100 series shell I make is smaller than OEM and the OEM wasn't as bloated as the 200 fob. I think you'll all be pleasantly surprised with the end size.
2. Keyring integrated into a metal band. This is probably the main design "flaw" of the OEM key and I plan on correcting this with a titanium keyring integrated into the design.
3. Plastic threads. The AJT design threads screws directly into ABS plastic. Although the screws are huge for a fob, they're still relatively small and likely to degrade over time for a threaded plastic piece. I make a point to always thread metal to metal in my fob designs. It adds complexity to design work, but the end result is more robust, in my opinion.
4. I can do one-off designs at a very low cost premium. Have a nickname for your car? Company design? It's possible to add those to your fob with 3D printed designs.
I'll start sharing some progress once a design rev gets rolling!
I have both 200 series versions on hand as donor fobs. See pic. Design phase beginning!
These are neat. I don't think they are a functional improvement so much as a fashion statement, but they're interesting. I definitely tip my hat to that guy. Not my taste, but well executed for what it is. A few notes on those products and how I plan on the YotaMD product differing:
1. Size. The YotaMD design will be compact. No extra girth for the sake of design. The OEM shell is too big. It can and should be made smaller. The 100 series shell I make is smaller than OEM and the OEM wasn't as bloated as the 200 fob. I think you'll all be pleasantly surprised with the end size.
2. Keyring integrated into a metal band. This is probably the main design "flaw" of the OEM key and I plan on correcting this with a titanium keyring integrated into the design.
3. Plastic threads. The AJT design threads screws directly into ABS plastic. Although the screws are huge for a fob, they're still relatively small and likely to degrade over time for a threaded plastic piece. I make a point to always thread metal to metal in my fob designs. It adds complexity to design work, but the end result is more robust, in my opinion.
4. I can do one-off designs at a very low cost premium. Have a nickname for your car? Company design? It's possible to add those to your fob with 3D printed designs.
I'll start sharing some progress once a design rev gets rolling!
I have a request for some folks with the HYQ14AAB keys: If you own calipers, can you measure the narrow channel in the center of the key? It should be close to .055in-.060in.
I'm working on the design and this channel will drive the titanium sheet thickness. I want to make sure my test key isn't an odd size.
I think you'll really like the key release mechanism. CAD renders should be coming soon. Stay tuned!
I'm working on the design and this channel will drive the titanium sheet thickness. I want to make sure my test key isn't an odd size.
I think you'll really like the key release mechanism. CAD renders should be coming soon. Stay tuned!
That is the exact number on my fob (2011 LC) and the slot in my key measures 0.062-0.063", using a good quality digital caliper.
I also held together a 0.030" and 0.032" feeler gauge and they are a very snug fit in the slot.
I also held together a 0.030" and 0.032" feeler gauge and they are a very snug fit in the slot.
Battleship
GOLD Star
FWIW, I like the design of your 100 shell, it looks nice and it is simple. Those AJT fobs are a little too Batman.
I HATE that Toyota make a 2 part key and fob for the Tundra but other cars like the Venza etc have the fob and the key together.
Its SO nice to carry just 1 key.
I just cant understand how a simple task can be so screwed up.
Wouldnt it be easier to make all of there keys across the board the same?
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I'm in. Mine is identical in numbers to the one TonyP picstured
Great, thanks!
Haha, "Batman". That's a good way to describe it. My design will be a little more subtle, similar to the 100 series YotaMD design.
Sweet, stay tuned!
Count me in for a set!
I like the idea, but it depends upon the design. The stock remote shell works fine. What I don't like about it is that it looks and feels cheap. It just doesn't have a nice looking design.
If this is the sort of thing you are talking about:
that doesn't float my boat. Yes, I'm sure it is stronger than the factory housing, but I'm not having problems with the durability of the factory housing. Make one that is more elegant and attractive, and I'll be all in.
If this is the sort of thing you are talking about:
that doesn't float my boat. Yes, I'm sure it is stronger than the factory housing, but I'm not having problems with the durability of the factory housing. Make one that is more elegant and attractive, and I'll be all in.
I like the idea, but it depends upon the design. The stock remote shell works fine. What I don't like about it is that it looks and feels cheap. It just doesn't have a nice looking design.
If this is the sort of thing you are talking about:
that doesn't float my boat. Yes, I'm sure it is stronger than the factory housing, but I'm not having problems with the durability of the factory housing. Make one that is more elegant and attractive, and I'll be all in.
Thanks, that's good feedback. Function is my foremost concern, but I hope it'll look good as well. It will be smaller in every dimension and should look less... bland. Whether it will look better or not is up to all of you. I will spend more time on the cosmetic design compared to the 100. The 100 fob has a ton of value because it's stout and the OEM one is not... at all. The 200 series version needs to have an aesthetic appeal since it's less likely to have left an owner stranded or starting their car with a pair of pliers, like the 100.
I've got a functional prototype designed up, but it's ugly at this point. Current models will remain behind the scenes for now. I'll need to get some cosmetic design work done before I broadcast any pictures/renders.
One thing that I do plan on making a significant upgrade is the feel of the key release. It will be all metal (brass on titanium) and should have a very nice, metal on metal slide feel with a satisfying *click*. Not unlike a 1911, one could argue.
I'd be in for a pair of the hyq14aab
Markuson
SILVER Star
I'd be in for a couple titanium units...
hyq14aab
hyq14aab
I could be interested if you could assemble the proposed key WITHOUT the mechanical key. I would just hide the metal key on the vehicle and carry the reduced size 'head' fob in my pocket. A variation of my existing approach.
I think my current planned design would accommodate this. It'll have a slot for the key, but the keyring is independent of the back up key. You could just not put a key in the slot and use the fob on it's own. Is that sort of what you had in mind?
