Build 1st FJ40, '76 - SMOKEY - Puttin’ her Back Together

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There you go, now you're cooking with gas. Many guys have successfully blasted axle housings, you might rethink your hesitation on that one especially since you seem intent on getting every last area down to clean metal. Good work


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Ok....
First , be careful using Black Beauty , it is extremely aggressive and can eat soft/thin parts pretty fast - especially at pressures above 90 psi . Try very hard not to use it on aluminum , especially around any areas that use a gasket . It also , btw , eats ceramic tips as fast as you can buy them . Look closely , if your compressor seems to be losing the battle faster the farther you get - that tip is opening up due to wear and the larger opening wastes air volume . There is a fine line of volume/pressure/velocity to blasting equipment . Running with a worn nozzle will result in using much more media than needed and running the compressor to death .

Second , be careful running a small compressor hard for long periods at a time . An hour is ok , but most of the newer/cheaper models will self-destruct if run hot for longer periods of time . Using better oil if it's a splash lube pump helps a lot , Royal Purple's synthetic is awesome for reciprocating units .

Might try using some washed sand . If you know how to wear a proper respirator dealing with the silicates can be done , just have to be careful handling the stuff and watch your surroundings . Glass beads are great for cleaning and fine detail /small parts - crushed glass cuts much faster and leaves nearly the same finish with no issues of silicates . I prefer the sand for outside blasting on my pressure pot unit , 80 grit glass bead in the cabinet unit inside .

I hope that's a junk caliper , otherwise it's going to be real fun getting those pistons out . Be aware that blasting media goes into places you'd never believe it can penetrate , including past seals and air cleaner filters . Ask anyone that's used a shop vac for dust removal - they just don't last long without using HEPA or special fine dust filters .

Curious , how much material gets recycled in the "bucket" thing ?

Just some tips , parts are looking good .

Sarge
 
Use a tarp to blast on top of it will collect a large part of the blast media. I use a screen from a window from lowes to filter out the garbage that gets on top of the tarp as i pour it back into the bucket. If you can borrow a friends air compressor put them in tandem using a check valve to keep the air from going back into the one with the lower pressure and blowing a lower safety valve off all the time. Use a water check valve from your local true value hardware store. I used one of these to blast an entire FJ40. The two air compressors will keep up.
 
Weber Sarge said:
Ok....
First , be careful using Black Beauty ,

Look closely , if your compressor seems to be losing the battle faster the farther you get - that tip is opening up due to wear and the larger opening wastes air volume .

Second , be careful running a small compressor hard for long periods at a time .

Might try using some washed sand . If you know how to wear a proper respirator dealing with the silicates can be done ,

I hope that's a junk caliper , otherwise it's going to be real fun getting those pistons out .

Curious , how much material gets recycled in the "bucket" thing ?

Just some tips , parts are looking good .

Sarge
Click to expand...

Re black beauty: yes, I've not tried it yet. I think the Starblast will be equally aggressive.

Re compressor tip: the Eastwood comes with 4 tips. All metal I believe, no ceramic.

Re small compressor: yes, I let it rest a bunch. Ran it for no more than a period of 30 minutes with breaks in between. It's a decent, but oil-less California Air 2HP 6 gallon. Weighs about 90 lbs. MUCH heavier than that HD pancake I used to run.

Re washed sand: nope, not going there. I'll pay more to avoid the slightest chance of Silicosis. ( I don't use saccharin either ;-)

Re Caliper: Darn, I knew I was taking a chance with that. We will see. Ordered the rebuild kit for those. I'll tear the other side down before blasting (and tape up the cylinders).

Re Recycling: with the tarp on 1/4 laid out, I'm catching a fair amount. Half maybe. (Tarp is muddy on 3/4). I just screen it a dump it back in.

Thanks for the tips!

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shipmag said:
Use a tarp to blast on top of it will collect a large part of the blast media. I use a screen from a window from lowes to filter out the garbage that gets on top of the tarp as i pour it back into the bucket. If you can borrow a friends air compressor put them in tandem using a check valve to keep the air from going back into the one with the lower pressure and blowing a lower safety valve off all the time. Use a water check valve from your local true value hardware store. I used one of these to blast an entire FJ40. The two air compressors will keep up.
Click to expand...

I'll have to try that tandem thing. How's that work again? Does one fill the other? What type of valve?


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Your tarp is way yo small your wasting a lot of media thw bigger the tarp the less media you will have to buy especially if the wind blows at all.
 
I thought you'd been quiet...:hmm:

I'm a big fan of LR Defenders
 
Almost bought one in '04 when you could still get them in the US. Saw a few in France - all working vehicles, as in they had a commercial purpose. First one of these had the dealer name stenciled on the side in vinyl lettering.

I'm back now - trying to stay up later than 8 PM. Jet lag sucks.
 
Yeah, I was shocked at the number of 70-series Land Cruiser used by the police in CR. I guess they are the pursuit vehicle of choice when 75% of the roads a dirt!

I've seen a couple Defenders for sale around here over the last few years (older ones, before they stopped selling them here). The guy who did some work on my 40 power steering has a solid 1980-ish defender 110. They've always been way out of reach, price-wise for me.
 
I must be the only stupid person on here. What is CR? Why were you over the pond work pleasure?
 
I highly recommend a cheapie Harbor Freight cabinet with crushed glass and shop vac, probably. $125 if you catch on sale . You could buy. 7 of them to add up to that. $899 bad a$$ cabinet .

Mine works great.

BTW I'm in BG, KY. Let me know if you guys meet and talk cruisers sometime!




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KY Longhunter said:
I highly recommend a cheapie Harbor Freight cabinet with crushed glass and shop vac, probably. $125 if you catch on sale . You could buy. 7 of them to add up to that. $899 bad a$$ cabinet .

Mine works great.

BTW I'm in BG, KY. Let me know if you guys meet and talk cruisers sometime!

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Click to expand...

Buddy of mine may have a good commercial unit he's not using anymore. His trophy shop bought a newer model. We will see.

You need to come to Nashvegas sometime.
 
In city areas , keep your eyes open for any industrial auctions - those big units sometimes show up for sale . I can make some money with mine but am limited a bit by it's size and capacity . Air-wise it's no issue , 23cfm compressor here I scored for nothing other than removing the 800lb monster . Crushed glass does cut a lot faster but seems to turn to dust much faster than glass bead , hence it's wider use in blast cabinets . The biggest trick is keeping a good air jet /nozzle combo and the velocity correct - once one part or the other is worn they are no longer efficient . If you ever plan on using a cheap vacuum be really careful about it's filters , some of the better new ones can be fitted with or include a washable filter and that's a big cost savings . I just retrofitted a special coated one into my old 6hp Crapsman to save on the stupid $20 filters which don't last more than a few minutes .

I've started having issues with the cabinet's old dust bag and blower motor - both are just worn out . I've got two choices - make a new bag ( own a nice Singer model 66) or switch to a dust collector . The blower motor is nla itself , like-built replacements are north of $200 and that system just doesn't work well anyway . Plan on ordering a new Scat unit here later this summer as I spend a lot of hours blasting in the winter doing welding jobs . TIG no like dirt/paint/rust....

Sarge
 
Weber Sarge said:
In city areas , keep your eyes open for any industrial auctions - those big units sometimes show up for sale . I can make some money with mine but am limited a bit by it's size and capacity . Air-wise it's no issue , 23cfm compressor here I scored for nothing other than removing the 800lb monster . Crushed glass does cut a lot faster but seems to turn to dust much faster than glass bead , hence it's wider use in blast cabinets . The biggest trick is keeping a good air jet /nozzle combo and the velocity correct - once one part or the other is worn they are no longer efficient . If you ever plan on using a cheap vacuum be really careful about it's filters , some of the better new ones can be fitted with or include a washable filter and that's a big cost savings . I just retrofitted a special coated one into my old 6hp Crapsman to save on the stupid $20 filters which don't last more than a few minutes .


Sarge
Click to expand...

Sarge, my biggest need is a good compressor. I keep saying I don't have room for it right now, but I may just bite the bullet and locate a one anyway. I'll need to move some of the parts offsite, but I need to clean up the garage now that the barn is gone and EVERYTHING is in the garage. Moving some of the parts offsite will help with that.




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[QUOTE

I hope that's a junk caliper , otherwise it's going to be real fun getting those pistons out . Be aware that blasting media goes into places you'd never believe it can penetrate , including past seals and air cleaner filters . Ask anyone that's used a shop vac for dust removal - they just don't last long without using HEPA or special fine dust filters .

Curious , how much material gets recycled in the "bucket" thing ?

Just some tips , parts are looking good .

Sarge[/QUOTE]

If you still need to get the pistons out of the caliper... I usually just pop them out using the compressor. When 1 goes, reinstall, put a wood block on it to keep it from popping out again and continue on to the others
 
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