1HDT troubleshooting / diagnostics after engine swap from 3F

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Joined
May 14, 2022
Threads
19
Messages
596
Location
Egypt
Since i got the rig, i have been systematically moving away 3F setup to 1HDT:
  1. Moved from 1.75 inch to 2.5 inch exhaust
  2. Swapped transmission axle that fits in clutch from 3F to 1HZ / 1HDT
  3. Swapped clutch and all its components from 3F to 1HZ / 1HDT
I still have issues with getting the car to back to close to stock as possible, specially the diesel pump.
The issues i am facing now:
  1. White smoke in the morning / shaking excessive vibration
    1. Went to shop, and found out 1 injector was leaking. Changed it still same issue
    2. Will need to revisit as i did not have time to sort out the rest
  2. Car cuts on step dune inclination when on idle
    1. Repeating problem after i swapped denso 096140-0030) pump sub-Assy fuel feed 5 month ago, problem improved but car was not 100%
    2. The issue increased again and had swap the same part again ! (it was quite worn)
  3. Engine haunts in idle
    1. cleaned and sorted idle screw / governor
      1. improved but i still think there is an issue.
  4. Under load car / acceleration engine would stall when i come to a stop
    1. Comes and goes even after swapping the pump feed for second time.
Overall the engine doesnt feel right, so went under the truck and honestly found out i was an idiot for not noticing
  • 3F tank feeds 6 mm and returns 4 mm !!
  • Lines are 6 mm and 4 mm up to the part right before the engine coming from underneath the car (hence me thinking its like this all the way back - noob)
  • Tank is for petrol not diesel .....
  • No swirl pot or anything for diesel.

Doing some reading and such, it seems the 4mm return is causing havoc in pump as its creating back pressure, causing lubrication issue and others not to mention the 6mm feed is starving the pump and might be causing cavitation which explains to me why the sub assy feed failed so quickly.

Has any one faced similar issues from petrol to diesel ? and does any one have any ideas / suggestions on this ?

On another note, i will build a custom tank (extended range) and change all feed / return lines to 10 and 8 mm, planning 180-200 liter stainless steel tank, will post the shape / layout etc. as i updated the post. So i can remove this from my list of potential problems.

I am not sure if I am on the right track or not but I will change tank and lines before going back to the pump but to me its completely out of specifications.
 
Since i got the rig, i have been systematically moving away 3F setup to 1HDT:
  1. Moved from 1.75 inch to 2.5 inch exhaust
  2. Swapped transmission axle that fits in clutch from 3F to 1HZ / 1HDT
  3. Swapped clutch and all its components from 3F to 1HZ / 1HDT
I still have issues with getting the car to back to close to stock as possible, specially the diesel pump.
The issues i am facing now:
  1. White smoke in the morning / shaking excessive vibration
    1. Went to shop, and found out 1 injector was leaking. Changed it still same issue
    2. Will need to revisit as i did not have time to sort out the rest
  2. Car cuts on step dune inclination when on idle
    1. Repeating problem after i swapped denso 096140-0030) pump sub-Assy fuel feed 5 month ago, problem improved but car was not 100%
    2. The issue increased again and had swap the same part again ! (it was quite worn)
  3. Engine haunts in idle
    1. cleaned and sorted idle screw / governor
      1. improved but i still think there is an issue.
  4. Under load car / acceleration engine would stall when i come to a stop
    1. Comes and goes even after swapping the pump feed for second time.
Overall the engine doesnt feel right, so went under the truck and honestly found out i was an idiot for not noticing
  • 3F tank feeds 6 mm and returns 4 mm !!
  • Lines are 6 mm and 4 mm up to the part right before the engine coming from underneath the car (hence me thinking its like this all the way back - noob)
  • Tank is for petrol not diesel .....
  • No swirl pot or anything for diesel.

Doing some reading and such, it seems the 4mm return is causing havoc in pump as its creating back pressure, causing lubrication issue and others not to mention the 6mm feed is starving the pump and might be causing cavitation which explains to me why the sub assy feed failed so quickly.

Has any one faced similar issues from petrol to diesel ? and does any one have any ideas / suggestions on this ?

On another note, i will build a custom tank (extended range) and change all feed / return lines to 10 and 8 mm, planning 180-200 liter stainless steel tank, will post the shape / layout etc. as i updated the post. So i can remove this from my list of potential problems.

I am not sure if I am on the right track or not but I will change tank and lines before going back to the pump but to me its completely out of specifications.
12mm feed 8mm return is the correct size. 3fe lines should be 8mm feed and 6mm return. you can reuse the 3fe feed line as a return. Do this first but the shaking at idle can be from mismatched injectors or low compression also.
 
12mm feed 8mm return is the correct size. 3fe lines should be 8mm feed and 6mm return. you can reuse the 3fe feed line as a return. Do this first but the shaking at idle can be from mismatched injectors or low compression also.
The lines I have are 6mm and 4 ( at tank intake and return). No 8mm in the lines, keeping in mind it could have been swapped over the years. I can measure at various points to confirm.

12 mm ?? Thought it was 10 mm feed ... im still building so I can change them to 12mm.

Yah I will check injectors first as one already had an issue and was replaced
 
The lines I have are 6mm and 4 ( at tank intake and return). No 8mm in the lines, keeping in mind it could have been swapped over the years. I can measure at various points to confirm.

12 mm ?? Thought it was 10 mm feed ... im still building so I can change them to 12mm.

Yah I will check injectors first as one already had an issue and was replaced
in 1990 they were 10mm and it was causing issues so Toyota did a campaign to up-size to 12mm. 1hz is still 10mm
 
Proceeding with extended tank stainless 304.

The idea is to resolve the many issues I am facing. Petrol tank is not suited for diesel operation.
Issues faced:
Tank leaks when full (specially at extreme angles)
Small pickup and return (6mm in 4mm back)
Extend fuel range to replace 85 litres for more range.

Will perform test fitting first.

Will postpone any further pump adjustments until tank is ready.
 
white smoke on startup is air getting in the fuel system most likely
 
white smoke on startup is air getting in the fuel system most likely
Would a transparent hose help if bubbles are present ?
 
yes
 
To prove the point get a length of new hose. Put hose on at the injection pump bypassing everything else.
Stick hose into a 5 gallon fuel can, weight down the end as in a chainsaw and fire her up, go for a ride if you feel comfortable...
Once this has proven the point use a length of clear hose at IP and work back towards the tank.
Note: System is under vaccum, so connections need to be up to snuff.
 
To prove the point get a length of new hose. Put hose on at the injection pump bypassing everything else.
Stick hose into a 5 gallon fuel can, weight down the end as in a chainsaw and fire her up, go for a ride if you feel comfortable...
Once this has proven the point use a length of clear hose at IP and work back towards the tank.
Note: System is under vaccum, so connections need to be up to snuff.
Yah solid suggestion was thinking of doing that.

White smoke disappears at 40 degrees when engine starts to warm. Only on cold start
 
Glow plugs!
Even one will allow smoke.
I tend to cycle the glows at least twice.
 
Glow plugs!
Even one will allow smoke.
I tend to cycle the glows at least twice.
I almost never use them (well i did didnt feel any difference when i got them working so i put them on a switch if needed).
Can you clarify what you mean ? You mean cycle their position ?
 
Turn the key on, glow plugs light will illuminate, allow a moment for plugs to cycle through the heating process, meaning let the "Glow Plug" light go out. On cold days I do this more than once.
Now, if you are in a warm climate who cares. Whereas we're going to get close to -30.
If the glow plugs aren't functioning, the truck is starting, and your fine with a bit of smoke forget everything i said.
 
Turn the key on, glow plugs light will illuminate, allow a moment for plugs to cycle through the heating process, meaning let the "Glow Plug" light go out. On cold days I do this more than once.
Now, if you are in a warm climate who cares. Whereas we're going to get close to -30.
If the glow plugs aren't functioning, the truck is starting, and your fine with a bit of smoke forget everything i said.

Yah doesn't usually get super cold in Egypt 😁 well not cold enough.

Honestly they dont seem to have any effect at all. Perhaps in really cold days it could help.
Its a diffrent story for 1HZ engines thought, it makes a huge diffrence.
 
Yup,
My 1HZ loves glowing, the 1hdt with 24volt starter is good to -20C, then glow cycles help.
My 1HD-FT has a nice Webasto, because this unit came from Belarus and the PO took the glow system out, though I can manually engage the glow screen if needed.
In closing your smoke is most likely air.
 
Test fitting new tank with 12 mm in and 8mm out.

Some adjustments needed to have a bit more clearance for suspension shackles for future maintenance. The fuel sender location need adjustment as well.

Overall quite happy with the result.
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On a side note since diesel shop adjustment, cold start is noticeably worse than before. Cranking takes far more then usuall and even more white smoke than before.
I did buy a transparent tube for testing and I will have to go back for adjustments on diesel pump but figured to do it after tank installation with proper fuel feed.
 
Test fitting new tank with 12 mm in and 8mm out.

Some adjustments needed to have a bit more clearance for suspension shackles for future maintenance. The fuel sender location need adjustment as well.

Overall quite happy with the result.
View attachment 4094607
View attachment 4094608
View attachment 4094610
View attachment 4094611
View attachment 4094609
On a side note since diesel shop adjustment, cold start is noticeably worse than before. Cranking takes far more then usuall and even more white smoke than before.
I did buy a transparent tube for testing and I will have to go back for adjustments on diesel pump but figured to do it after tank installation with proper fuel feed.
120l?
 
Stock was around 90, calculations based on dimensions should be around 150 to 160 litres (so 15 to 25 litres more than stock main + aux stock setup)
 
Stock was around 90, calculations based on dimensions should be around 150 to 160 litres (so 15 to 25 litres more than stock main + aux stock setup)
nice, i put the brown-davis in mine
 
Clear hose to and from fuel tank.
In this case feed and return lines.
Tank was removed in order to repair the diesel Argo Centaur drive train.
Clear hose will remove the second guessing.
You can leave the Clear hose in place for a long time...I carry a spare and/or the original hose just in case.

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