1FZ-FE Rebuild: Would you reuse this oil pump bushing?

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I'm rebuilding my 1FZ-FE and I just got the block back from the machine shop. I specifically asked them to not clean the block with a caustic mix as to not damage the oil pump bushing, and they told me they used detergent. After picking up the block, I noticed the bushing is a little discolored but doesn't seem to be corroded, damaged, or weakened in any way. The bushing is smooth, there is no scratching/pitting/etc, and looks good. What are your opinions? I thought this was a brass bushing...it seems to be aluminum or steel?

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Additionally, does anyone know where I can find these freeze/frost/expansion plugs? The machine shop took them out. Is the part number 11431B / 96411-65000?

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And my last question has to do with head bolts or studs. I am heavily contemplating re-using my stock head bolts after reading every thread I can find on this forum. They meet OE spec according to the FSM and can be reused, but I've also considered going ARP Supra/Opel studs as they're cheaper than a brand new set of OEM bolts. I'm using a factory new-style OEM Toyota HG, and I'm curious from those who have used ARP studs... 1.) did you retorque and 2.) what torque values did you use - ARP's or Toyota's?

So to summarize:
  1. Is this bushing still good, would you reuse it?
  2. Is that the right part number for those small freeze plugs? Probably 1/2" wide in size, dime shape. Does anyone sell a complete set for all plugs?
  3. Would you reuse your factory head bolts? If you used ARP, did you retorque after X miles, and whose torque specs did you follow?
THANKS!

DSC06490.JPG
 
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mudgudgeon

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And my last question has to do with head bolts or studs. I am heavily contemplating re-using my stock head bolts after reading every thread I can find on this forum. They meet OE spec according to the FSM and can be reused,

If there's room in your budget, buy new OEM studs, or ARP.
I measured head bolts while doing a head gasket. Most were in spec, I ordered some new ones, plus 2 spares. I used the 2 spares after a couple of bolts that measured ok seemed to yield and not torque up
 

ceylonfj40nut

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Don’t reuse head bolts. They are Torque to yield. Google it.
 
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To answer this question: the original oil pump shaft bushing is a "babbit" metal alloy, mixture of different metals, so the color is correct for the original bushing, however Toyota does not sell that bushing. The aftermarket replacement bushing is made of brass.
 
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Get a new bushing from landtank and use dorman 555-108 plugs for the oil galley plugs they took out. Did they run brushes through all the oil galleys? I ran brass brushes from a rifle cleaning kit, spray out liberally with brake clean and compressed air. Same with the crank passages. Lots of brake clean brushing and air.
 
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Don’t reuse head bolts. They are Torque to yield. Google it.
I have. I've went through basically every thread on the topic on Mud. The verdict is clear as...mud. Basically people have come to the following conclusions:
  1. "Toyota knows their own bolts. If the FSM says reuse them if they're in spec, then reuse them"
  2. "I've reused them up to 3 times"
  3. "Never reuse these bolts, you're this far into it, replace them"
  4. "Why not use ARP studs? They are cheaper than OEM"
  5. "Contrary to popular belief they are not TTY"
  6. "Toyota dealerships were reusing head bolts for head gasket jobs that were coming in"
  7. "The piece of mind was worth it to replace them"
Seriously keeps me up at night thinking about the myriad of responses to this subject. It's just so opinionated. I think for the sake of my own sanity I'm just going to buy new bolts. You may have finally pushed me over the edge - thanks.

To answer this question: the original oil pump shaft bushing is a "babbit" metal alloy, mixture of different metals, so the color is correct for the original bushing, however Toyota does not sell that bushing. The aftermarket replacement bushing is made of brass.
Just learned something new! I've never heard of "babbit". Interesting! Yeah I have seen lots of different aftermarket bushings and they're all brass. Would you replace it?

Thank you

Get a new bushing from landtank and use dorman 555-108 plugs for the oil galley plugs they took out. Did they run brushes through all the oil galleys? I ran brass brushes from a rifle cleaning kit, spray out liberally with brake clean and compressed air. Same with the crank passages. Lots of brake clean brushing and air.
Thanks, yeah I've been eyeing landtanks kit. They removed every plug in order to clean through all the galleys and passages so I assume so, yeah. Looks very clean in there.
 

mudgudgeon

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I think for the sake of my own sanity I'm just going to buy new bolts.

There it is.
It's not a huge expense to replace them, even if not entirely necessary
 
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There it is.
It's not a huge expense to replace them, even if not entirely necessary
Good point.
I replaced mine with OEM. Not cheap. Originals were in spec, barely.
Main bearing bolts were "more" in spec. I reused those; and every other fastener, except I upgraded to Allen head on the oil pump cover.
Have fun. Happy Thanksgiving!
 
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I have. I've went through basically every thread on the topic on Mud. The verdict is clear as...mud. Basically people have come to the following conclusions:
  1. "Toyota knows their own bolts. If the FSM says reuse them if they're in spec, then reuse them"
  2. "I've reused them up to 3 times"
  3. "Never reuse these bolts, you're this far into it, replace them"
  4. "Why not use ARP studs? They are cheaper than OEM"
  5. "Contrary to popular belief they are not TTY"
  6. "Toyota dealerships were reusing head bolts for head gasket jobs that were coming in"
  7. "The piece of mind was worth it to replace them"
Seriously keeps me up at night thinking about the myriad of responses to this subject. It's just so opinionated. I think for the sake of my own sanity I'm just going to buy new bolts. You may have finally pushed me over the edge - thanks.


Just learned something new! I've never heard of "babbit". Interesting! Yeah I have seen lots of different aftermarket bushings and they're all brass. Would you replace it?

Thank you


Thanks, yeah I've been eyeing landtanks kit. They removed every plug in order to clean through all the galleys and passages so I assume so, yeah. Looks very clean in there.
do you know if they removed the oil galley balls as well? if they did then you need to replace the ball's with this kit 1FZ 4.5L Oil Galley Plug Kit - Yota1 Performance, Inc. - https://209yota1.com/products/1fz-oil-galley-plug-kit/ do not use the little freeze plugs, i tried and found they were too small, so i used the dorman ones.
 
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do you know if they removed the oil galley balls as well? if they did then you need to replace the ball's with this kit 1FZ 4.5L Oil Galley Plug Kit - Yota1 Performance, Inc. - https://209yota1.com/products/1fz-oil-galley-plug-kit/ do not use the little freeze plugs, i tried and found they were too small, so i used the dorman ones.

Looks like it? I didn't know there were oil galley balls behind the two smaller plugs..? The Toyota diagram doesn't show it and it looks like they just put the freeze plugs/caps in on this post? Oil galley plug- 1HZ-FE - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/oil-galley-plug-1hz-fe.1261193/

(the post says 1HZ but that looks like 1FZ)


Edit: Sorry, I totally misinterpreted your post.

That Yota1 link shows 2 cap-type plugs, 3 large galley balls, and 1 small galley ball. I just went out to my motor and checked. There is:

  • 1 large ball plug on front of block (behind timing cover)
  • 1 large ball plug on rear of block, in line with front plug. Probably goes all the way through
  • 1 large ball plug on intake side near front of block
  • 1 small ball plug on the front of block (behind timing cover)
  • And supposed to be the 2 freeze plug type plugs that I'm missing in the pic above

Which dorman ones did you use?

So this leads me to believe my galley "ball" plugs are fine and in place, yep.
 
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Looks like it? I didn't know there were oil galley balls behind the two smaller plugs..? The Toyota diagram doesn't show it and it looks like they just put the freeze plugs/caps in on this post? Oil galley plug- 1HZ-FE - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/oil-galley-plug-1hz-fe.1261193/

(the post says 1HZ but that looks like 1FZ)


Edit: Sorry, I totally misinterpreted your post.

That Yota1 link shows 2 cap-type plugs, 3 large galley balls, and 1 small galley ball. I just went out to my motor and checked. There is:

  • 1 large ball plug on front of block (behind timing cover)
  • 1 large ball plug on rear of block, in line with front plug. Probably goes all the way through
  • 1 large ball plug on intake side near front of block
  • 1 small ball plug on the front of block (behind timing cover)
  • And supposed to be the 2 freeze plug type plugs that I'm missing in the pic above

Which dorman ones did you use?

So this leads me to believe my galley "ball" plugs are fine and in place, yep.
i used the dorman 555-108 as the little "freeze plugs" in the yota 1 kit seemed too small for my liking and i used the ball bearings in the yota kit.
 
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Just get new Toyota head bolts or the ARP Supra
2JZ-GTE studs. They are the same length as stock head bolts. I saved one original head bolt from my old engine. Never checked them. Did not care to. I could see with unaided eye the narrowing that occurred in a 200,000 mile engine with last 100,000 supercharged.
”Pennywise”
I would likely pick up a new oil pump bushing from Landtank to avoid “roaching“ a newly rebuilt engine.
 
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I got new OEM head bolts during Black Friday. About $40 or so off which was enough to make me finally pull the trigger. Free shipping too!

So does anyone know the OEM part number for the freeze plugs located here? I have not been able to find them in any parts diagram.

For future readers, Dorman part number for these is 555-108 as stated by @audi2nr
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I'm following up here with this information about my existing oil pump bushing:

  • Inside diameter of bushing 1.190”
  • Outside diameter of oil pump gear shaft 1.178
Meaning I have .012" of clearance between the bushing and the gear shaft and it seems to wobble around way more than I'd like. Yes you have to account for oil clearance but that seems awfully loose, even if it's held in place by the crank gear, ps gear, etc. Videos here, let me know what y'all think if you've rebuilt a 1FZ. Was yours tighter than this?:




Meanwhile, @landtank bushing has an ID of 1.180" which would put me at a much tighter clearance of .002". (10 thousandths tighter). I think I will be going with his bushing for insurance purposes.
 
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i have a bushing question. I have done nearly everything you can do to my 96 1fzfe short of rebuilding. When I assembled it back together, there is a squeak in the oil pump/power steering area. I have a new PS pump, and have replaced the oil pump cover gasket. When I had the cover off, there was some slight rub marks on it. Oil pressure is good at 348k miles. I have scratched my head about this squeaking/rubbing noise and have gotten no clarity from MUD about it. Could this bushing(which, I did not existed until today) be the culprit? I know there is wear in that area. I will see if i can find video of the sound.
 
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i have a bushing question. I have done nearly everything you can do to my 96 1fzfe short of rebuilding. When I assembled it back together, there is a squeak in the oil pump/power steering area. I have a new PS pump, and have replaced the oil pump cover gasket. When I had the cover off, there was some slight rub marks on it. Oil pressure is good at 348k miles. I have scratched my head about this squeaking/rubbing noise and have gotten no clarity from MUD about it. Could this bushing(which, I did not existed until today) be the culprit? I know there is wear in that area. I will see if i can find video of the sound.
Odds are it's one of the two idler pulleys. Use a mechanic stethoscope to check the bearings on it. The stethoscope is about $15 at harbor freight.
 

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