1fz-fe engine management upgrades

dogfishlake

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I don't think it can either. That turbo looks pretty awesome. What boost are you targeting?
I'd like to be able to push around 15 psi, at least on the dyno. Looking for close to 600 hp at the crank so that should be around 400 at the wheels on an 80. Not sure I'd leave it there. Perhaps run lower for a while, but not sure.
 

scottryana

 
 
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You could technically but not realistically. There are boxes to replicate the input the to the stock computer that it will be missing when you parallel the standalone in. But unless you have deep pocketbooks to pay a tuner to map the inputs and replicate them you are going to have codes. I have 3 codes that would prevent me from passing OBDII. You can get rid of the MAF code by plugging in the MAF and resetting codes but you can't drive far before the computer figures things out.

Great turbo, I run the EFR 9180 and 9174 on my Subaru (switch between them depending on track config)

I seriously doubt running a standalone removing fueling and spark control from the stock ECU yet allowing transmission control could be done while retaining no visible OBD2 codes
 

GSTMike

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You could technically but not realistically. There are boxes to replicate the input the to the stock computer that it will be missing when you parallel the standalone in. But unless you have deep pocketbooks to pay a tuner to map the inputs and replicate them you are going to have codes. I have 3 codes that would prevent me from passing OBDII. You can get rid of the MAF code by plugging in the MAF and resetting codes but you can't drive far before the computer figures things out.
Oh I have no doubt it can be done with enough external parts and calibration time from a tuner I just don't see anyone going to the required lengths and costs associated with doing so, sorry my response was a little to literal in terms of stating I seriously doubt running a standalone parallel to the OE ECU would be achievable with no remnant codes. I really should have stated I seriously doubt anyone would be willing to jump through the hoops and various costs associated to attempt to do so.
 

dogfishlake

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So, any update @dogfishlake ? I am sticking a rebuilt motor in mine and I got to wondering whatever happened with the standalone idea. I would love to stick a 5 or 6 speed in here too.
I have a big expensive pile of parts waiting to be put to use, eventually. I had been held up on the turbo manifold decision- do my own or buy.
I committed to a 6boost manifold. It will bolt to a Borg Warner 8374 EFR turbo, 550cc Bosch injectors from Five-O-Motorsports, Supra fuel pump, some kind of A/W intercooler, 3" exhaust. And I also just made a deal on a full rebuilt 1fz-fe with a ported head, arp studs, and set up for a Cometic head gasket - all from @FJ60Cam at Mosley Motors. When I will actually assemble the parts and install into my 80 I still do not know.

The engine management I bought is a Haltech Elite 750. It should be good for the application except it does not have knock control. I hope that was a good decision but at the time I bought it, it seemed right.

Another big part of the package is a patch harness from Boomslang fabrication. They do not list the harness on their site but have done them before and delivered mine in 2 days! It cost a bit but there is a lot there for the money. It is set up to run the factory ecu in parallel with the Haltech so both "think" they are running the engine. In reality, the Haltech covers the engine and the factory ecu covers shifting the a343 transmission and the cruise control.

If I had the time I would love to drop in the Haltech with everything else stock just to see what the engine perfomance/mileage would be. The Haltech uses a wideband O2 sensor and a MAP sensor to control the engine. I truly believe with some modern input from the better O2 sensor and some modern mapping the stock 1fz would wake up a bit.

I wish I had a conclusive answer but this is all I have thus far.
 
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Tehran
Hey everyone just wanted to share a new car that arrived at our shop. It was a 70 series running a mix of 80/100 series electronics to run a full ignition packed 1fz-fe from either a late model 70 series or 100. Anyhow, the ecu was toast and some of the wiring was questionable at best. The ecu was a Venezuelan spec’d 70 series and getting one was not possible. So we rigged up a Force ECU (Megasquirt 3 clone) in parallel with stock ECU to keep the cluster happy and the simple batch firing for injectors just to keep things affordable (ecu plus wiring came at ~550 usd). Since the car was a bust we couldn’t get a baseline, but bone stock similar 100 series on 33 made 150whp before on our dyno. With just our piss poor 89 octane we settled down on 24 degrees on timing, the AFR was a tad lean for my likings but since it took it well with no knocks whatsoever, it was set at that. Next is headers to see how things will improve, These engines definitely could benefit from better breathing at top end!

6FD3188B-BFF0-4DE4-B8F0-00BB965085D8.jpeg
 

dogfishlake

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Great info. That graph shows what a newer ECU can do for the 1FZ. I am thinking your intake is the one that is after the US spec intake used until 1997. The newer 1FZ has a higher power rating but I doubt it is from the newer intake. All of them suffer from a small-ish throttle body and intake tube it seems. The better igniton would be nice. I am supposed to be working on a mount for coil packs, right @scottryana ?

Thanks for sharing, and keep the updates coming!
 
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Yes different intake manifold, coil packed ignition instead of distributor and higher compression ratio. Better injector nozzles vs the 80 series on top of my head. But still a lump mover with terrible power holding problems. I am looking to get a 80 for myself and looking forward to see how can i do with that. Locally there is a 60 series with again a 100 series 1fz on cams and bigger throttle body, it made 240whp but we want to keep things inexpensive with this 70. (Sorry about the terrible photo)
D262D364-AB63-4472-970B-25C65DB2C068.jpeg
 

dogfishlake

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I know they don't get much love on this forum but I have a CX racing header on my 80 and it has held up really well. I did hi temp coat it even though it is stainless just to help the low quality chinese stainless last. Also, I had to port it right at the exhaust flange because it was really messy, but it took less than an hour. If using on a supercharger, it won't work. I had to cut mine apart and reconfigure it to fit the SC.

I have no dyno numbers unfortunately so no data to share there. I just mentioned it because you noted wanting a header.
 
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I know they don't get much love on this forum but I have a CX racing header on my 80 and it has held up really well. I did hi temp coat it even though it is stainless just to help the low quality chinese stainless last. Also, I had to port it right at the exhaust flange because it was really messy, but it took less than an hour. If using on a supercharger, it won't work. I had to cut mine apart and reconfigure it to fit the SC.

I have no dyno numbers unfortunately so no data to share there. I just mentioned it because you noted wanting a header.
I’ve had mixed experience with CXR before. But i already got a headers here, and it’s 6-1 instead of the 6-2-1. In my experience with BMW engines, the 6-1 not only makes less rasp and throatier sound, it also helps with mid range. Hopefully this headers does better than looking good because it does not appear to be a quality piece; that collector is just terribly awful! Again, bu was a big priority with this 70.



BTW, got 5 more hp as well with playing with AFR. Fingers crossed with better gas and headers we can get close to 200whp!

What did you put down with the SC? I’m a turbo guy myself and i plan to run turbo on my future truck, but am curious about the SC!

8B4F3161-3222-47E9-AFDD-1A09B30482F0.jpeg


E889E820-63F8-40B7-91B8-55F48247A56B.jpeg
 

dogfishlake

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I’ve had mixed experience with CXR before. But i already got a headers here, and it’s 6-1 instead of the 6-2-1. In my experience with BMW engines, the 6-1 not only makes less rasp and throatier sound, it also helps with mid range. Hopefully this headers does better than looking good because it does not appear to be a quality piece; that collector is just terribly awful! Again, bu was a big priority with this 70.



BTW, got 5 more hp as well with playing with AFR. Fingers crossed with better gas and headers we can get close to 200whp!

What did you put down with the SC? I’m a turbo guy myself and i plan to run turbo on my future truck, but am curious about the SC!

View attachment 2210587

View attachment 2210588
I like the header. There are very few choices here in the US.

I never dyno'd the truck with the supercharger on it. It was the early Kazuma case that I ported, 3" pulley, methanol injection upsream of the supercharger, the CX header and 3" exhaust, small top mount intercooler. It could chirp the tires but never break them free. The truck has 4.88 gears and 35" tires.

The best I ever got 0-60mph was around 8.5 seconds and that was with terrible lag on launch. I just don't think the stock ecu liked to think that fast!
 
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I like the header. There are very few choices here in the US.

I never dyno'd the truck with the supercharger on it. It was the early Kazuma case that I ported, 3" pulley, methanol injection upsream of the supercharger, the CX header and 3" exhaust, small top mount intercooler. It could chirp the tires but never break them free. The truck has 4.88 gears and 35" tires.

The best I ever got 0-60mph was around 8.5 seconds and that was with terrible lag on launch. I just don't think the stock ecu liked to think that fast!
That’s moving!
We only have a handful US spec Cruisers around here so I don’t know much about them, but Gulf Specs ECU’s and some of the JDM ECU’s don’t like to boosted at all. Maf scaling gets maxed out and since our cars don’t have O2 sensors, engines get lean very quickly. Maybe your o2 sensor helps a bit, however IMHO running a SC on stock map is a terrible idea on any application nothing just these cars. Stacking a standalone with a map sensor would give you a much better of controlling what is happening.
 

dogfishlake

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That’s moving!
We only have a handful US spec Cruisers around here so I don’t know much about them, but Gulf Specs ECU’s and some of the JDM ECU’s don’t like to boosted at all. Maf scaling gets maxed out and since our cars don’t have O2 sensors, engines get lean very quickly. Maybe your o2 sensor helps a bit, however IMHO running a SC on stock map is a terrible idea on any application nothing just these cars. Stacking a standalone with a map sensor would give you a much better of controlling what is happening.
I agree. That is the reason I sold the supercharger and am going turbo. The TRD supercharger kit is set for 6psi to work with the stock ecu

Current plan is Borg Warner 8374 efr turbo, 6 boost twin scroll manifold, Haltech ecu, Bosch 550 cc injectors, some kind of intercooler, supra fuel pump.
I will be looking for around 15-18 psi. I just picked up a .5mm over 1fz-fe with a ported head and machining for a cometic head gasket and ARP studs. This has been going on forever but all the parts are in house except for building the intercooler. No set date on when it will be done. Hopefully this summer.


Credit for the direction on the turbo build goes to @scottryana . He knows his stuff and has been a great help. I have learned a ton from him
 
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I agree. That is the reason I sold the supercharger and am going turbo. The TRD supercharger kit is set for 6psi to work with the stock ecu

Current plan is Borg Warner 8374 efr turbo, 6 boost twin scroll manifold, Haltech ecu, Bosch 550 cc injectors, some kind of intercooler, supra fuel pump.
I will be looking for around 15-18 psi. I just picked up a .5mm over 1fz-fe with a ported head and machining for a cometic head gasket and ARP studs. This has been going on forever but all the parts are in house except for building the intercooler. No set date on when it will be done. Hopefully this summer.


Credit for the direction on the turbo build goes to @scottryana . He knows his stuff and has been a great help. I have learned a ton from him
Great stuff! Looking to see what your rig end up making. The 8374 is a decently sized turbo, you should get a nice powerband.

How you are gonna control the transmission? I believe your auto transmissions are also controlled by the DME and there is no TCU, correct?
 

dogfishlake

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Great stuff! Looking to see what your rig end up making. The 8374 is a decently sized turbo, you should get a nice powerband.

How you are gonna control the transmission? I believe your auto transmissions are also controlled by the DME and there is no TCU, correct?
Correct. The factory ecu contols shifting so it will run parallel to the haltech and run the transmission.
 

scottryana

 
 
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Our trucks in the US have a blessing and a curse with the OBDII emission systems and narrow band O2 sensors. Our 1995-1997 1FZFE trucks actually run rich depending on MAF voltage and TPS. So we can use that to our advantage and do forced induction just like Toyota did with the TRD Supercharger as long as you properly size the turbo.

But because of this, on those same trucks there would be A LOT of efficiency to be had if someone wanted to tune them NA using a standalone ECU. I feel like you could lean up the idle and significantly lean up the WOT and get a decent fuel efficiency increase and potentially more power.

Great stuff! Looking to see what your rig end up making. The 8374 is a decently sized turbo, you should get a nice powerband.

How you are gonna control the transmission? I believe your auto transmissions are also controlled by the DME and there is no TCU, correct?
 
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Our trucks in the US have a blessing and a curse with the OBDII emission systems and narrow band O2 sensors. Our 1995-1997 1FZFE trucks actually run rich depending on MAF voltage and TPS. So we can use that to our advantage and do forced induction just like Toyota did with the TRD Supercharger as long as you properly size the turbo.

But because of this, on those same trucks there would be A LOT of efficiency to be had if someone wanted to tune them NA using a standalone ECU. I feel like you could lean up the idle and significantly lean up the WOT and get a decent fuel efficiency increase and potentially more power.
Ours are rich as well, and also with very conservative timing curve. At WOT the AFR’s dip into 11’s. Usually we see highest power at low to mid 13’s depending on the timing.
 
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